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I heard a big pop today from the right front, so i take a look underneath to see if i hit something. I notice the eyelet? where the end link connects to the control arm broke off. I remember reading on the pointy board a long time ago recommending a weld on piece because the later models such as mine only had one attaching point and the older models had two points.
Found this...
http://www.gomiata.com/rabelcaendli.html
"With the 1999 Miata, Mazda has made a change to the end link attachment bracket on the front lower control arms. The 1990-97 Miata was produced with a U shaped end link attachment brackets. The 1999-03 Miata is produced with a single-sided L shaped end link attachment bracket. Our observations have led us to believe that this L shaped design may not be strong enough to handle the demands of a stronger aftermarket sway bar. We STRONGLY recommended the addition of these Lower Control Arm Reinforcement Flanges. This modification will convert the L shaped bracket into a U shaped bracket, and while this modification requires some minor welding, we believe this effort is worthwhile. After completion of this modification, the stock end links can no longer be used."
Anyone know where i should get this installed in the area?
You need to find someone who is good at welding. While I have a welder I don't qualify in the good catagory.
Do you have collars on the sway bar?
My wife's '02 has had had a big front bar on it for over 2 years, and it has run several AX. Not to mention she drives it as if she stole it.
So it is written, so it shall be! (Copy & Paste from Miata.net)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Hollis
Here's a brain dump on Miata clunks and broken sway bar mounts and such.
1) The M2 has sway bar locators on the stock bar. These keep it from moving laterally in the bushings. Also, the stock rubber frame mounts tend to keep it in place. But aftermarket bars have no locators and use urethane bushings. The bar will move side-to-side. Taken to an extreme it can allow one end to contact the frame, causing a clunk when it slides off and lets go. Solution: add a pair of hose clamps to the bar just inside the frame mounts. Placing them over a short piece of split garden hose will give the frame mount a bearing surface to act on. A brass collar is the professional way to get the same effect.
2) The big hollow RB front bars that are in vogue are much thicker than OE. As such, they provide less clearance to the upper control arm and can contact it if you use OE end links. Buy some adjustables or make your own (rod ends) to fix this. If the bar contacts the control arm, it will make noise and it will also apply tremendous stress to the frame mounts and likely rip them (causing more noise).
3) The opposite of #2 is having aftermarket end links that are too short or which do not have enough off-axis movement available. When replacing the links, there has to be enough length so the bar does not hold up the control arm at full droop (doing so will stress the frame mounts and...well you know the rest). Its best to remove the shock/spring, attach one end of the bar to the link and lower arm, and run the suspension up and down all the way to look for binding and travel.
4) The RB urethane bushing is too thick in the frame mounts. In most applications, it binds the bar when tightened. Applying lube will help for awhile, but its only a temporary fix. Noise is made as the binding lets go and regrabs. It will also make the car push like a pig. Excessive binding will stress the frame mounts which cause breakage and more noise... The easy fix is to sand/grind off a little bit of the flat part of the frame mount bushing that mounts up against the frame rail. try a little at a time until the bar moves freely when the whole assembly is tightened. DOn't do too much or the bar will lose effectiveness.
HTH,
--Andy
PS: BTW, all of this is from first-hand experience.
Mike to the rescue! No I do not have collars on the bar, i guess while i'm having someone weld in some new endlink brackets very soon I will be making the collars.
You can buy screw-on type collars here - http://www.mcmaster.com/ - (using inside diameter sizing). Search for 'collars' and you'll probably find an old link.Quote:
Originally Posted by aalvarez04
Great minds think alike. :D I just bought a pair of aluminum 2 piece shaft collars from them before christmas. Price was around $7 each.Quote:
Originally Posted by sammm