Very Loud Engine Ticking, Video inside

I think the motor in my 93LE is on the way out. I ran some errands after work, got in started the car and the engine started clacking/ticking pretty loud. It wasn't the normal tick that occurs when the engine is cold or the oil is dirty that all Miatas have it was about 3X louder. The higher the rpm the louder and faster the clack.

I checked the spark plugs, wires and one of the wires was toast. I ran to the store bought new wires put them in according to the diagram here for a 1.6L and no dice. The oil level was near the top as I always keep it there.

My friend said it sounds like a rod bearing. Any other theories? Could it be a lifter? What should I look for or check next? Here's a video, I'm hoping it's something minor but I doubt it. Anyone have a long block laying around?

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...87553790&hl=en

Wow that doesn't sound good. :(

u sure its coming from the TOP of the motor??

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Originally Posted by BAM!

u sure its coming from the TOP of the motor??

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That is what it sounds like, near the front of the valve cover. Hard to pinpoint it exactly though.

Almost sounds like my diesel... :(

Is it constant now, or does it ever go away? Sounds bad, but like a totally collapsed lifter/worn cam... something like that.

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Originally Posted by trickyrix

Is it constant now, or does it ever go away? Sounds bad, but like a totally collapsed lifter/worn cam... something like that.

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Since it started last night it hasn't gone away. It speeds up as the rpm's increase. I'm not sure if it's in the head or the block. I sent Rogue a PM, hoping he can take a look and advise.

I take it from this post it's not a good noise......

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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

Since it started last night it hasn't gone away. It speeds up as the rpm's increase. I'm not sure if it's in the head or the block. I sent Rogue a PM, hoping he can take a look and advise.

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When I did the timing belt and water pump, etc. over the winter, the car was in the garage for almost two weeks while I tinkered. When I put it all back together and cranked it up the first time, I had a VERY similar noise.

I ran it for a while in the garage, got it warm, shut it off, started it up again - all in vain - LOUD tapping.

I decided to drive it up to Auto Zone to get some kind of oil additive to see if I could cure it because I thought it was a stuck lifter.

On the way, as I pulled away after waiting for a green light - it smoothed out and has never come back.

...just my two cents - Rogue IS the Miata Manual!

When you last worked on, did you accidentally lock a midget with a jackhammer somewhere in the engine?

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Originally Posted by wrx74

When I did the timing belt and water pump, etc. over the winter, the car was in the garage for almost two weeks while I tinkered. When I put it all back together and cranked it up the first time, I had a VERY similar noise.

I ran it for a while in the garage, got it warm, shut it off, started it up again - all in vain - LOUD tapping.

I decided to drive it up to Auto Zone to get some kind of oil additive to see if I could cure it because I thought it was a stuck lifter.

On the way, as I pulled away after waiting for a green light - it smoothed out and has never come back.

...just my two cents - Rogue IS the Miata Manual!

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Interesting...I contacted Rogue and he was very helpful. I'm going to take it to him and have him take a look when he's back in town. I'm scared to drive it any more than necessary right now.

Have you researched the 2TWISTY motor flush on Miata.net if it is a Hydraulic Lifter that is ticking??

Rogue what do you think of this method?

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2TWISTY
Overdrive
Member # 11301

This "knocking" sounds more like the classic Miata HLA tick.

Your car has hydraulic lifters and sometimes you can't get oil into them fast enough for them to stay totally inflated, so they tick.

When you check the oil, make sure the car has sat for a few minutes NOT RUNNING. For an accurate measure, I like to wait about 5-10 minutes.

There are a number of "solutions" to the HLA clatter, and every one of them involves changing your oil.

My favorite is to do 2 oil changes.

On the first, put a cheap filter in the car and put 1 qt of really thick oil and 3 quarts of auto tranny fluid (yes, ATF) in the engine and run it for about an hour.

Drain that out. While the drain plug is off, run about a gallon of kerosene through the engine to flush it out good.

Then, put your good Mazda OEM, Mobil1, or Purolator (NOT FRAM!) oil filter on the car and fill with your favorite oil (dino or synth)

Others will just tell you to adjust the viscocity of the oil.

I have found the adjusting the viscocity only moves the problem to one end or the other. If you go thicker to address the hot tick, you're more likely to cold tick. If you go thinner to address cold tick, you're more likely to hit tick.

I believe that the lifters tick because the hole in them that allows the oil in is too small, and over time this hole closes up a little due to varnishing of the oil and other deposits.

The strong detergents in the ATF help to dissolve these varnishes, restoring these holes to closer to their original size.

I have no proof of this, but in my experience, my method works for longer than the others I've seen. I usually get 3-4 oil changes at 3-5000 miles before ticking comes back.

The ticking won't really hurt anything, we're talking about thousandths of an inch here, but it sure is annoying to have your nice pretty car clacking at the stoplights...

Chad

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Originally Posted by POS Racing

Have you researched the 2TWISTY motor flush on Miata.net if it is a Hydraulic Lifter that is ticking??

Rogue what do you think of this method?

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I tried this on the 94 shortly after I got it, and I don't think I'd do it again. After the "flush" it would smoke every start, and I mean smoke, as in fumigate the neighborhood. I'd try to get on down the road as quickly as possible and it would stop smoking after it warmed up. :burnrubr: This continued to occur even after a couple more oil changes, and was distressing since it never did this before the "flush".

Fortunately it eventually stopped and I have no idea what was going on, if the flush dislodged buildup around the rings or lodged some crud where it was blocking the normal oil flow.

That method sounds a little iffy. Kerosene, ATF? I think mine is past an oil change or anything like that but who knows. It's almost more of a mechanical clack than a light tick.

What oil are you running and how many miles since the last change? I'd try a change there before panicking. Run down to OReilly's and pick up some of that Valvoline full synth for 1.50 qt. rebate deal.

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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

That method sounds a little iffy. Kerosene, ATF? I think mine is past an oil change or anything like that but who knows. It's almost more of a mechanical clack than a light tick.

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Some sort of a flush may not hurt to see if it is a plugged lifter before you go and spend the $$$$ on another motor.

Have you pulled the valve cover to see if ya got some nasty crap in the valve train?

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Originally Posted by cam76034

What oil are you running and how many miles since the last change? I'd try a change there before panicking. Run down to OReilly's and pick up some of that Valvoline full synth for 1.50 qt. rebate deal.

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Castrol GTX high mileage, was changed right around 2,000 miles ago. I'm going to drain the oil tonight anyway so an oil change can't hurt I suppose.

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Originally Posted by POS Racing

Some sort of a flush may not hurt to see if it is a plugged lifter before you go and spend the $$$$ on another motor.

Have you pulled the valve cover to see if ya got some nasty crap in the valve train?

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I haven't pulled the valve cover yet, never dug into the inside of an engine before. I suppose I'd need to disconnect a few things and get a new gasket if I were to do that?

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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

Castrol GTX high mileage, was changed right around 2,000 miles ago. I'm going to drain the oil tonight anyway so an oil change can't hurt I suppose.

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What weight?

The valve cover gasket can be reused if it's not too hardened. If it is then it'll work as long as it isn't cracked, but will leak a bit.

I sent you a PM with some details on checking the lifters to see if one collapsed.

If you can wait until this weekend I can help you with it. Right now I'm a little far away for that. ;)

RJ