Engine quit, won't restart.

Driving home from work at 6:30am, my engine quits on I-20 westbound going downhill just past spur 408. No warning, just stopped running like the spark or fuel were cut, with almost a half of a tank of fuel remaining.

I did a few things to troubleshoot, but am still unsure of what is wrong.

Here is what I have done so far -

- Pulled codes, only got the P0420.
- Verified spark on cylinders 1 and 3 using an inductive timing light. (New wires and plugs, so this was mainly to test the coils.)
- Changed fuel filter
- Verified timing marks line up.
- Verified good Fuel Injector fuse, and power across fuse terminals.
- With the Cherokee battery jumped to the Miata, (since the Miata battery was weak from running hazard flashers,)
- - Verified that the fuel pump runs with the FP jumped to GND in the diagnostic box. (Fuel pump runs, but doesn't sound real healthy.)
- - Verified that without the FP jumped to GND that the FP relay clicks, and the FP runs for a few seconds after trying to start the car.

Any suggestions on what to look at next, when I get off of work tomorrow morning?

Thanks

Crankshaft possition sensor?

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Originally Posted by POS Racing

Crankshaft possition sensor?

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I thought that would affect spark and/or throw a code?

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Originally Posted by Walsted

I thought that would affect spark and/or throw a code?

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You would think it would, but it controls the spark.

Does it run now or is it still dead? When I had a CPS issue on our '02 once the car cooled off it would run fine again. Until it heated up again...

It works, now. I replaced the fuel pump since I didn't like the way it sounded, figured if it would make troubleshooting the other possibilities easier, and if wasn't the problem now, it would be soon. The car now starts, runs, and idles smoother than before it died.

Way to go Mike!

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Originally Posted by cam76034

Way to go Mike!

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Thanks. It wasn't really difficult, though. Under an hour for the actual repair after spending about half an hour eliminating easier and/or cheaper possibilities. The hardest part was paying Autozone for a fuel pump that could be had for a lot less if I could have afforded to wait for it to be shipped.

The thought of driving from the southern part of Fort Worth to Addison in a Jeep Cherokee a second time was strong motivation to get it repaired.

This fuel pump stuff is getting old. The pump I installed November 2009 died the summer of 2010 on the way to work, and the warranty replacement pump I installed in the summer of 2010 died yesterday on the way to work. It looks like I need to buy a decent one as a spare, and put that one in when (not if) the one I just installed fails. For reference, the replacement pumps have all been Airtex E2111 pumps.

Does anyone here have experience putting a Walbro in a NB, and/or know the correct part numbers for a drop-in replacement?

Thanks.

IIRC from when mine died, the vatozone replacements suck.

I bought a new-to-me replacement from Nissan Mazda Heaven for like $70-80 and it was the whole assembly and it ran like a champ. The OEMs run for 100k+ miles... stick with them.

Here is a link to help you out.

ok fine. i cant be a prick since i dont know you. GSS 342 Walbro pump for a 99 - 05. depending on your application. if it is naturally aspirated then you dont really need a 255. I wont argue with overkill though.

I'd just be sure you're not getting too high a fuel pressure with a walbro in there...

The normal walbro is ok. Just don't get the lph version. That is the high pressure version and it can get up to 120 paid according to walbro.

Paid = PSI
stupid phone.

I had a 255lph/hp in a previous vehicle with a return system and about 20psi boost and no fuel problems after the pump install, but it wasn't a drop-in replacement. The pictures of the GSS342 don't look like it is a drop in replacement for the NB, as it would need female quick disconnects instead of ring connectors. Am I missing something, or do I need to modify wiring to make the GSS342 work?