CEL, code P0340, cuts out at 5K rpms. Bad crank sensor?
Wanted to toss this out for a sanity check. Sorry for the long post but want to give all pertinent information (I also posted this on miata.net).
The car is a 2002 spec miata race car (not street legal). I had it at the track last week running some fun laps when it suddenly started cutting out somewhere around 5K rpms. It was as if someone turned the key off. As soon as you took your foot out of the throttle and the rpms dropped, full power returned. However, as soon as the rpms got somewhere between 4K-5K, it would repeat the same thing. CEL came on. Brought the car into the hot pit and then it wouldn't start. After a bit, it started again and I put it back on the trailer and took it to my mechanic. It still had the intermittant no-start problem and continued to cut out above 4.5K rpms. Mechanic pulled the code. P0340 (cam position sensor circuit). Doing some searching on this site and others, it appears it could be anything from the CPS itself to anything in that circuit including the crank sensor.
Now some background. About two weeks ago at a track event, I lost the fan belt. It shredded when it self destructed. No harm was done in terms of overheating because I shut it down and coasted into the pits before the temp got too hot. Replaced the belt and continued running the rest of the weekend with no issues at all. No power loss or hesitation at all.
However, when my mechanic was looking over the car this morning, he told me that it looks like the CRANK sensor may have been damaged when the belt let go. Said it looked scarred up. He is guessing that is the source of my problem and the P0340 code. As a side note, he pulled the cam sensor and said it didn't appear to be dirty. (I read some threads where a dirty CPS can cause a problem). He said he also checked wiring/grounds and all looked good.
My dilemma is that I am running another event this coming weekend and am wondering if I roll the dice and have him replace ONLY the crank sensor or bite the bullet and spend another $90 on a cam sensor (it takes a day to order these parts, AutoZone, etc doesn't keep them in stock). Obviously, if he replaces the crank sensor and the motor is still cutting out and it is still throwing a code, then we'll know it wasn't the crank sensor and we'll move on to the cam sensor. My concern is that this has been intermittant and I don't want to have it seem to be fine tomorrow and then have it crap out again at TWS this weekend where I won't have access to a cam sensor replacement part. Since the car isn't street legal and is ear splittingly loud, I don't have the luxury of a thorough road test.
Appreciate any input on this.