I have a ScanGauge plugged into my OBD II port on my 96. I can monitor various different parts.
Yesterday I hit 213 degrees in stop-n-go traffic with A/C blasting. Intake air got to 173 degrees! Temp Gauge stayed a notch below middle.
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I have a ScanGauge plugged into my OBD II port on my 96. I can monitor various different parts.
Yesterday I hit 213 degrees in stop-n-go traffic with A/C blasting. Intake air got to 173 degrees! Temp Gauge stayed a notch below middle.
We don't have any Fancy Schmantzy gauges in the 2002 but it is hot enough that the wife had me put the hardtop on it on Monday. ::Blink::
She also reported yesterday the temp gauge started creeping off of its normal position moving toward hot in stop and go traffic.
It's freakin hot. My AC is inop right now and my shift boot is torn so internal temps climb pretty quick. Lets just say the 104 degree garage felt cool compared to the inside of the Miata yesterday lol.
Oil temps around 225-230 for me. Need to check coolant temp but I have my tune set to run all the fans non stop if coolant temp is above 160F which is pretty much all the time.
Last night with AC full blast, the MSM coolant was in the 220f range. (linearized stock gauge)
Oil 210 water 200-210 a/c on driving 80+ lower if I'm going slower or if I have clean air in front of me. Sitting in traffic it would over heat
No scangauge. I topped off the radiator and that seems to have temporarily have fixed the overheating. But with the slow AC fan I noticed today at lunch that with the windows down or up makes no difference in cabin temp while stopped at a light or drive through. The AC blows about room temperature below 40mph. The replacement fan is on order and can't get here fast enough.
Between that and having no tint...this car is beginning to suck as a daily driver.
Oh yea, went to In N Out driving the Element last weekend, the damn thing overheated in the line. After some diagnosing, found out the AC fan blew out on that thing as well... Seems to take a lot more punishment than the Miata though. The AC was still ice cold untill the needle started moving.
BMW. Don't drive the Elise regularly, especially not when it's 108 outside. Elise water temp is typically 190F cruising all the way to 210-215F sitting between runs at auto-x when it's 100+. Need to connect my USB to laptop to see BMW water temps. All I know is that it's comfortable, quiet, fast and the a/c can freeze me to death when it's showing 113 outside.
110-120 IAT (no boost)
75-80 IAT (boost/meth)
180-185 water temps
I didn't hook up an OBD II, but even after a short trip, the water in the system was boiling. The temp gauge did not budge.
I did the "parallel fan" wiring... no help there. I picked up a 160° thermostat from TDR, replaced the radiator cap with an RX-7 (FD). Then had the coolant system 'power flushed'. Obviously not following proper scientific procedure by doing all three simultaneously, but who cares; it worked. I drove for a couple of hours today with AC on and no boiling.
::Banana::
My wife's Accord has an ambient air temp sensor, and it was reading 119 while moving at 30 mph on Central today. At 75 mph, it dropped to 111.
I'm giving mine a break until it cools off. No sense putting a 21 year old car through this since I don't have to. My Chevy truck can sit in traffic and blow cold air all day long.