Another code question...

Ok,

Been battling with a P1797 code. The "check engine" light actually went out before I installed the switch. Put in the switch & checked the code. All clear but still have some "not ready" crap going on. Drove the car all weekend long, put probably 40-50 miles on her and still have the "not ready" on 3 of the systems. Do I need to pull the battery term, let it reset and then drive, drive drive? I use my code reader when I clear codes but does that actually reset the computer? I've got 8 days to do an emission retest and I need to figure out what is up.

Thanks guys!

Good stuff here - http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/rsd/vi/.../faq_obdii.htm

Also the rules changed in 2008

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Effective October 15, 2008:

For vehicles year model 2001 and newer, we allow one (1) non-continuous monitor to be Not Ready and still pass the test, but two (2) or more Not Ready's will cause the vehicle to fail.

For vehicles year model 1996 – 2000, we allow two (2) non-continuous monitors to be Not Ready and still pass the test, but three (3) or more Not Ready's will cause the vehicle to fail.

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And

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Changing the monitor(s) to "READY"

In order to get the OBDII system to set the monitors to "Ready", the vehicle needs to be driven through a drive cycle/drive trace.
If you don't have access to drive cycles/drive traces, they should be available from a qualified service technician or dealership.
With a generic OBDII scan tool*, verify the monitors are "READY" before returning the vehicle to the customer.
*Vehicle manufacturer specific scan tools must be in the global OBDII or generic OBDII mode to display readiness monitor status.

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Thanks for the info POS, it will come in handy. I have 3 "not ready" so that's my issue. I read somewhere that I should start the process with the AC and rear defrost on and idle like for 2.5 mins then do a bunch of silly driving. I haven't had the AC on in months so maybe that will help.

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In order to get the OBDII system to set the monitors to "Ready", the vehicle needs to be driven through a drive cycle/drive trace.
If you don't have access to drive cycles/drive traces, they should be available from a qualified service technician or dealership.

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So anyone out there know what is needed to do a drive cycle??

^
Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle"

Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.
However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)

1. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
2. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
3. Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
4. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
5. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
6. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.

General Motors (specific) OBD II Drive Cycle

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
   Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Further useful information:
Understanding On-Board Diagnostics (from the Illinois EPA):
http://www.epa.state.il.us/air/vim/g...nding-obd.html
from "A Guide to the Illinois Vehicle Emissions Inspection Program" (March 2005 revision)
[ http://www.epa.state.il.us/air/vim/guide/ ]

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Originally Posted by POS Racing

So anyone out there know what is needed to do a drive cycle??

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I printed out a write up from that other board and it had like 8 steps:

1.Cold start...
2.Idle...
3.Accelerate...
4.Hold steady speed...
5.Decelerate...
6.Accelerate...
7.Hold steady speed...
8. Decelerate...

Each one has a certain thing to do but not sure where I would find a spot to drive and do all the stuff the write up has.