Timing belt service...intake recommendations?

So im compiling my list of parts for my timing belt change and unfortunately im cursed w/ a sense of perfection and so i know i already have gone beyond what is absolutely necessary but i would rather do something right the first time then go back later so here is what i have compiled:
DIY Timing Belt Cost:

TDR: Cost:

Gates Racing Timing Belt $59
Water Pump $65
Cam seals $15
Crank Seal $10
TB idler/tensioner $48
Valve cover gasket $49
Gates alt/wp belt $21
Gates ps/ac belt $21
Aux hose set $38
NGK v power plugs $15
Royal Prple pwr str fluid $6

Moss Miata
Jackson Racing 160 therm. $6
Jackson R. plug wires 8mm $48

Good-win-Racing
KCIS magnetic drain plug $24
Drift magnetic oil filter $10
Samco silicone hoses $109
koyo radiator cap 19psi $25
koyo radiator plug $10

Mini-P
oil cooler/relocation kit $150

Total: $729::Rant:: or $525 if i heed trickyrix wise advice

Of course thats still not including a good synthetic oil(royal purple is my usual) and anti-freeze and DI water and this list is after removing some items like a TDR strut brace and valve cover(i can paint mine) and koyo radiator but i do want to do a air intake even though ONE DAY i wanna do forced induction i want some engine music till then so i have narrowed it down to a AEM($200) intake or the DDM works Stage 2 intake($354..leaning heavily towards this one) and if anyone on here has had experience with either and there thoughts? Any suggestions on anything i left out on list is appreciated.

TDR silicone intake is bauce.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq

TDR silicone intake is bauce.

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This is the one your referring to:
http://trackdogracing.com/trackdogra...filterkit.aspx

No, I was referring to the one on my NA cars.

Seriously, just buy it all from Rosenthal and save a ton of money. All their stuff is either OEM or OEM quality, and the kits are complete so you don't have to worry about forgetting random parts. However, if you feel like wasting your own money, then I can't help you.

Here, I'll even get you pointed in the right direction:
TB/WP kit - $200
Coolant hose kit - $110

^^^

+1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trickyrix

Seriously, just buy it all from Rosenthal and save a ton of money. All their stuff is either OEM or OEM quality, and the kits are complete so you don't have to worry about forgetting random parts. However, if you feel like wasting your own money, then I can't help you.

Here, I'll even get you pointed in the right direction:
TB/WP kit - $200
Coolant hose kit - $110

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Going that route ^^^ would save $125 so far...if i still kept the other stuff. $160 if i forget the radiator cap and plug.
I feel all warm and fuzzy inside::hippi::...i think i found my "forum father"::OldMan:: so wise and ready to dispense his wisdom..please no "in my day..." stories and we will be ok. Going by your comment on the first major news thread im guessing your in your late 30's to early 40's and have learned from many mistakes and being that im still a "young buck"(28) i still get ahead of myself...so appreciate the looking out.

Seriously though i appreciate your input and will consider the OEM route...especially considering i could spend what i save on real performance parts.:rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trickyrix

Seriously, just buy it all from Rosenthal and save a ton of money. All their stuff is either OEM or OEM quality, and the kits are complete so you don't have to worry about forgetting random parts. However, if you feel like wasting your own money, then I can't help you.

Here, I'll even get you pointed in the right direction:
TB/WP kit - $200
Coolant hose kit - $110

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This is what I'm doing. Rosenthal is great to deal with. Quick shipping too.

When I did mine in Nov, I got the all the stock hoses from TDR and the 180 thermostat. The Silicone hoses look pretty, but don't move the water around any better. I talked with Black Roadster (??) about the thermostat and for an N\A engine 180 was best. I used NAPA coolant, ethyl glycal is ethyl glycal. (it would be even better if I could spell it). Have fun with the oil cooler hoses. I found it easier without the oil filter, alternator and intake manifold brace in place.

^^^Only figured silicone hoses for longevity but hey as long as it takes for rubber ones to fail i would be money ahead. As far as thermostat i wasn't set on 160 but that was my first thought since i figure the stock one opens at around 190-200 so i figured it would appreciate the drop but if yall say 180 works best especially since yall track yall's cars then sounds good.

As far as the oil cooler is concerned im assuming your last statement about the alternator and manifold brace was concerning the routing of said hoses????

I would go with 180. The 160 won't allow your heater to work as well. The 180 will work great on a track/autoX car. Use a 160 if you have overheating issues on the track and you've tried everything else.

As for the oil cooler hoses. They're a PITA because they are hard to access. Removing the manifold brace and oil filter will make it much easier. They are still a PITA though. It's the hose clamps that can fight you.

^^^ok. Appreciate everyones opinions and experience sharing.:thumrigh: