Gonna go to the darkside!

So I got a good deal on a current generation FM Turbo with the GT2560R with the FM AA I/C but no electronics. It also came with an FM 2.5 SS down pipe. I know, I know, I work at TDR and I'm installing a turbo. Plans are to gather all the parts I need, bolt it to my 99 motor and swap it all in. The 99 motor has 75k and all the leak down numbers are 8% or less.

My goals are the following

Reliability for daily driver street and occasional track.
200-225 RWHP
Do this as inexpensively as possible

Things I need:

MegaSquirt 2 for 96-97 Miata
Wideband with AFM Gauge
Boost Gauge
Water Temp Gauge
DDM Works Radio Gauge panel
Coolant Reroute

Things I might need:

Aluminum radiator (I have a stock radiator)
Fuel Injectors
Hi Flow Fuel Pump
Inconel studs

Things I'll need down the road:

Free flow turbo dual exhaust
Wilwood BBK

So any advice or recommendations from you turbo guys would be appreciated. I've been on Miata Turbo and did searches and read the stickies. Most of that crap is over my head and honestly, I don't care to geek out. I just want a reliable FI miata with a medium level of boost. Is that too much to ask?

Hey William,

I'm running the same kit that you have, and I just pulled my engine, so if you'd like to take a gander at how it all goes together, you're welcome to swing by, but make it quick, because I'm tearing the engine down in a day or two.

If you like the way these gauges look, I can give you a hand modifying your cluster to incorporate VDO's, and boost gauge, gauge panel, and Profec S are for sale.

Here's a few pics, and links to some albums.

Engine removal & turbo kit install
Miata Gauges

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...4/IMG_0059.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...4/IMG_0040.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_...4/IMG_0051.jpg

C

Don't kid yourself you are GOING to need the injectors, fuel pump and radiator. Do the studs since they WILL break and then you have to remove the turbo and manifold and pay a machine shop to drill them out.

Yep, he is headed down an expensive slippery slope. As much as I would like more power, I dont think my caris worth dumping that much money into it. And I am a Cheap Bastard! ;-)

Add a clutch to your list.

C

Quote:

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Originally Posted by black roadster

Reliability
200-225 RWHP
Do this as inexpensively as possible

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Pick 2.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sammm

Pick 2.

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Truth

Talk to the guys over at Trackdog Racing, they are experts in FI.

You might also give Rouge at Miata Solutions a call to find out how much it will cost to fix the mess you are going to make of your motor.

Maybe the best idea is to sell the "great deal" for a profit and thank yourself later.

Quote:

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Talk to the guys over at Trackdog Racing, they are experts in FI.

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Sometimes the jokes are a little subtle around here.

+1 on Rogue or his fab brother Rouge.

Mls head gasket and arp head studs should be on your list as well.

Also the stock clutch will start slipping around 220ish (at least that's when mine started to slip) anything below that and it holds nicely. Yes, buy injectors.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wizzurp

Mls head gasket and arp head studs should be on your list as well.

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IMHO I'd say these are not a requirement but just added insurance. Honestly I'd only do this if I were going to run high boost or just happened to have the head off. There are plenty of other things he will be spending money on before he has to worry about these.

Thanks everyone for the info.

I'm going to right the first time even if i have to wait a while. My engine runs fine now so I'm not in a hurry. I do have a Spec Stage 2+ clutch and lightened flywheel. Will an eBay radiator like a Mishimoto be adequate or do I need to spring for a high-end unit? I imagine silicone hoses would be suggested as well for the high heat. What size injectors and will a 190LPH fuel pump work? Am I replacing all the turbo studs to inconel? Turbo to manifold and turbo to down pipe. Sources for good prices as FM and Begi charge out the ass for these.

That is also your opinion, my car went to the dyno completely bone stock, at 10 psi on the stock head gasket it went bye bye, brought it home swapped in an Mls gasket and the studs and it went back with no issues. Your mileage may vary obviously.

You know this just means more spins at Hallett, right?

I ran 10-12psi, and up to 15 on mine for 4 years on a tired, oil burning engine with no issues. Cheap and easy injectors would be RX7 550's which will fit the stock rail, and plug right in to your harness. Like you, I'm running a Spec 2+ clutch, with a 10lb flywheel which held the power just fine, and has a very easy to live with pedal feel. I think people are generally happy with the Mishimoto unit, mine is running a Koyo 55 with stock fans, distilled water, and a bottle of water wetter. I like to run the fans in parallel, and a handy trick is to disconnect the AC compressor signal wire, which allows you to use your AC button as a manual fan override.

C

Quote:

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Originally Posted by miataspeedracer

You know this just means blowing your car up at Hallett and trailering it home, right?

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Fixed for you.

440cc or 500cc injector's are recommended for 200whp (you can pick up the stock yellow RX-8 injectors for pretty cheap). Fuel pump imho isn't required if you keep it at 200hp. Doesn't TDR sell a nice radiator? As for inconel studs, go ahead it will save yourself a headache down the road.

SOOOOOOOOOOOO subscribed to this thread! :rolleyes: