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The light is back. I replaced the coil pack and wires last weekend (not cheap to have not fixed this...) and the light has been gone all week until this morning. What else? Front O2 sensor? I'm going to check the plugs as well. The plugs were replaced at the start of the year, but I guess they could have gotten fouled in the interim if things are misfiring or whatever is going on... Suggestions welcomed...
Have you tried cleaning the MAF?
Gabkwong is the king of NB codes, maybe he will chime in. I think he had every code you can have on an NB.
I will add cleaning the MAF to my chores list. Just hose it down with throttle body cleaner?
I may pull the intake manifold for a cleaning as well. It's been a couple years since I've done that. EGR code is probably about ready to show up as well...
^Yes, hose it down. Be sure the thin (fragile) wire inside is clean.
If you're cleaning the intake manifold, be sure to get that pesky EGR port (I think that's what it's called).
I'm painfully aware of the nooks and crannies of the intake manifold. But, thanks for the warning.
This would be a better choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonieGT
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/s...m5zdO&usqp=CAY
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...entifier=36011
Picked up a can of MAF cleaner. Hosed the sensor down extensively. It's too soon to say for sure... but I think my idle dip under braking is gone... fingers crossed. Thanks for the suggestion.
Idle dip while in neutral and braking is not gone. I don't know how it didn't do it on the first test drive but has come back on the second and third drives... The car does seem to pull harder now though. The CEL has not returned yet, fingers crossed that it is gone.
I'll be taking the throttle body back off to see if I can get the idle screw removed per a suggestion from the pointy board and may pull the IM as well.
Still having a problem with a weird hesitation/power loss while cruising in the 3-4k rpm range. It's small, but larger enough to feel my head bobbing forward and backward.
I've changed the coil pack, wires, and spark plugs. Cleaned the MAF and throttle body. No codes are being thrown.
What do I do next?
Had the same issues on a '97. Cleaned and replaced a lot of parts including coils and cleaning throttle air bleed screw port . Finally checked throttle position sensor (tps) . After unplugging it , car ran super smooth although it idled higher. Ended up replacing throttle body with a used one and fixed the problem.
Thanks, I'll look into that.
Just drove the car again. When I first started to pull away it sputtered like mad and almost died. After that, it cleared up and ran seemingly ok.
Whem I'm hard on the gas it usually pulls pretty good to redline. Every once in a while it feels a little deader than usual in the 2-4k rpm range.
I changed the O2 sensor last night and went for a drive. My first impression was that the hesitation was still there, but faint. I've been reading up on throttle position sensors as well. I've seen some posts about people disconnecting it altogether. I gave that a try last night. The idle dipped to 5-600 rpms, but drove ok once you got moving. I don't think I noticed the hesitation? I plugged the TPS back in and cleared the CEL. It's possible the TPS is the problem? But... keep reading.
My car's inspection is up this month. So I drove to work and noticed no hesitation at all... Got the car inspected and it failed. It passed the emissions part ok, but did not pass the ECU test. Clearing that CEL I had from disconnecting the TPS tripped the computer's "readiness." So now I've got to put some miles on the ECU so that it will properly report "ready" to the inspector.
So in summary. The hesitation is gone... or not gone... I don't know. I need to wait for the ECU to go back into "ready" condition to see if hesitation is really gone. If it shows up again I'm taking it to TrackDog. I give up!
Here's a procedure to get the ECU ready:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/in...ic,5210.0.html
I wasn't able to follow it exactly, but I got close enough that it only took a couple drives to work and back to make it "ready" again.
Thanks, I'll see if I can jump through the right hoops to get it back to ready. I do have a code reader so I can at least see if the condition has changed.