Wheel bearing replacement failure.

I had planned on replacing a noisy left rear wheel bearing today. I did some research to ensure I had all of the right tools to make it an easy job before beginning. Apparently, I did not do enough research.

I removed the wheel, set the parking brake, and went after the axle nut. The first lesson I learned today is that a Harbor Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench is no match for that nut. I also learned that a long breaker bar would bend significantly with no movement of that nut, even with me standing on an end or using a trolly jack on the end. Then I learned that the Harbor Freight 20% off coupon that I had could be applied to the purchase of their electric impact wrench. After I got home, I removed the nut using the impact wrench (which still took more time than I would have expected,) and tried to attach the Harbor Freight slide hammer to the hub. It didn't attach, as the spacing of the holes on the hub remover attachment is too far apart for 4-100mm bolt spacing.

Thus, the car was reassembled without a bearing replacement. I will update this thread as the saga continues. Hopefully, others will learn what NOT to do from this thread.

This is a great job to take to a shop.

In my case, I got the uprights free and took that to a shop. They made quick work of it with a press and didn't charge that much.

The hardest part is next . . . either the axle will come out of the hub easily or it won't. Whatever you do, don't mushroom the end of the axle shaft. Replacement axles are not readily available. You're better off pulling the axle out of the diff and taking the upright with frozen axle to the aforementioned shop with press.

OTOH, maybe your next HF purchase is that 20 ton press you've always wanted. Use anti-seize when you put the axle shaft back into your reworked hub.

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Originally Posted by hornetball

OTOH, maybe your next HF purchase is that 20 ton press you've always wanted. Use anti-seize when you put the axle shaft back into your reworked hub.

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I already have the twelve ton press. I guess the next step is to remove the axle and upright, and press it out?

Yes, thats the next step. Be prepared for the axle to be too seized to press out, even with a big press. I bent a 20 ton press trying to remove a 1.8 axle that was stuck. Best bet is to soak the living crap out it with pb blaster or something equivalent. I hung the upright with the axle hanging vertically below and soaked it for two days before I was finally able to get it out with a sledge and some sacrificial wood.

Most miata shops are littered with seized axle/hub combos. Good luck!

Edit - the slide hammer attachment can be dremel-ed out enough to fit it on the miata hub. I actually used an old na hub and tack-welded a nut on the backside to replace the HF bracket.

In the middle of this job on the 930. Should have paid whatever it would have cost to have a shop do it. F bearing replacements.

How hard are the uprights to remove on the 930?

drop the motor it feels like.

Imagine trying to do the long bolt method with a header right freaking there.

LMK if you need an extra hand.

After having the slide hammer machined to fit the hub, I tried again. I still couldn't get the hub off. Finally took it to Pep Boys, they had both sides done before lunch.

^It's obvious...you need a bigger hammer.

What was the charge for them to finish the job?

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Originally Posted by pepperinyoureye

What was the charge for them to finish the job?

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$322 out the door for both sides.

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Originally Posted by Walsted

$322 out the door for both sides.

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Factoring in your time/frustration/tool expense, that's a no-brainer.

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Originally Posted by hornetball

Factoring in your time/frustration/tool expense, that's a no-brainer.

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If the slide hammer would have removed the hub, the tool expense would have been less than the cost to have someone else do it. I know now that I didn't have appropriate skills/tools, and that is why I posted this, so others can learn from my experiences. If we all post our less-than-optimal experiences, others will learn and hopefully not tread the same paths. By the way, the cost was labor only, as I had previously ordered parts from RockAuto.