Steering rack replacement

I'm off work next week, and the weather looks crappy. I'm thinking I'll finally install the new steering rack I bought last year.

Any tips, hints, gotchas?

Not too bad. Get the tie rods and ends loosened before you unbolt the rack from the subframe. Mark your steering shaft so you can get the steering wheel centered again. Also, count/measure as much as you can on the steering rack position before you disconnect anything, to minimize the effort of matching the setup on the new rack. Be careful with the clock spring.

Thanks Mike.

I was thinking...probably a good time to replace ball joints too, right? They will probably get destroyed removing the old rack.

Why would that be? If you use a fork, I'd expect the boots to get torn, but you can get new boots. I've got one of these (you can borrow from O'Reilly or the Zone) and it got the tie rod ends loose easily with no boot damage:

http://www.amazon.com/OEMTools-27022...d+removal+tool

+1 on this. my crooked steering wheel is annoying as shit.

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Originally Posted by OZMDD

Not too bad. Get the tie rods and ends loosened before you unbolt the rack from the subframe. Mark your steering shaft so you can get the steering wheel centered again. Also, count/measure as much as you can on the steering rack position before you disconnect anything, to minimize the effort of matching the setup on the new rack. Be careful with the clock spring.

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Is this on the red or silver car? :confused:

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Originally Posted by hornetball

I've got one of these (you can borrow from O'Reilly or the Zone) and it got the tie rod ends loose easily with no boot damage:

http://www.amazon.com/OEMTools-27022...d+removal+tool

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Sam, I have one of these in case you want to borrow it.

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Originally Posted by jrj512

Sam, I have one of these in case you want to borrow it.

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Good to know, thanks!

Are you staying with a power rack? If you change to a manual rack, the tie rods are different thread pitch in the ends.

The replacement rack is power. I've thought about going manual, but haven't really researched it much.

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Originally Posted by OZMDD

If you change to a manual rack, the tie rods are different thread pitch in the ends.

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Then explain why a 93LE (w/ps) and a R-pack use the same tie rod end. :scratch:

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Originally Posted by sammm

I was thinking...probably a good time to replace ball joints too, right? They will probably get destroyed removing the old rack.

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Tie rod ends, Yes (N021-32-280A) ...but you shouldn't be doing anything to the ball joints swapping a rack.

also i'd replace the rack bushings.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/superpro-...-bushings.html

^Thanks Stevan.... I already have new poly bushings for the rack.

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Originally Posted by Rogue

Then explain why a 93LE (w/ps) and a R-pack use the same tie rod end. :scratch:

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Inner threads; the have two ends. Would've thought the newly-rejuvenated Miata solutions would know that.

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Originally Posted by OZMDD

Inner threads; the have two ends. Would've thought the newly-rejuvenated Miata solutions would know that.

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Oh but I do….Thats why I was calling attention to it.
I have done quite a few of these over the years.
But why would you mess with the tie rods themselves, just swapping racks?

Hence the question regarding manual vs power. Mazda shows two part numbers for manual vs power tie rods. That's why I was calling attention to it. Trying to help out Sammm. Been a little busy to spend my time proofreading all your social media posts, unlike you apparently.

Merry Festivus.

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Originally Posted by OZMDD

different thread pitch in the ends.

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I took that to mean ENDs as in Tie rod ends…..just trying to clarify that.

You kids play nice, it's Christmas! :santa::reindeer::reindeer::reindeer::reindeer: