Engine Extreme overheat

Driving down the road a few weeks ago, my upper radiator hose burst. I didn't notice it until the check engine light illuminated. By that time, the temp gauge was pegged. I got a tow home, replaced the upper hose, refilled the coolant, and started trying to get to work again. It made it about 5 miles before the temp gauge pegged again. I refilled the coolant, and started heading back home. I had to stop a few times on the way home to buy a couple of gallons of water to refill the coolant when the temp gauge started climbing.

After this abuse, I figure I have a warped head and bad head gasket at minimum with an unknown probability of a warped block. Knowing this repair would take a while if we went that route, and thinking we would probably sell the MIata as is, we bought a 2002 Mustang instead of getting a rental and repairing the Miata.

After seeing the cost difference between the Mustang and the Miata, the wife is wanting me to repair the Miata in my spare time and eventually sell the Mustang. I am leaning toward just getting a junkyard motor, but that hasn't worked too well in the past. On the other hand, a rebuild would be too costly, and I don't know enough to know whether it would be a good idea to just pull the head and take the head (or head and block) to a machine shop to be machined flat.

If anyone has knowledge in these areas worth sharing, I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

I would pull the head and take it to a machine shop. Buy new Mazda head gasket. Carefully clean up the top of the block. Reassemble.

Thanks. Any suggestions regarding which machine shop to use?

http://www.automotivemachine.com/

Thanks. I appreciate the advice.

Another good option is just to buy a crate remanufactured head from one of the big rebuilding outfits. Even places like Autozone, O-Reilly's or NAPA -- would arrive quickly and be warranted (for example, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...=cylinder+head). Treasure Coast Miata sells reman'd heads for $550 with no core (http://treasurecoastmiata.com/i-2011...der-heads.html).

If you're just keeping things stock and would like a warranty, that's what I'd do.

I've also had excellent luck with JDM engine swaps. They tend to be pretty low-mileage, and the price is competitive or better-than the cost of machine shop work.

Republic Custom Engine did my head/valve work recently and it was reasonable and good quality. Treasure Coast is also a good source.

Lastly, there is someone selling a complete VVT head/intake combo on the book of faces page for under $300. I'd take it to a machine shop and have it cleaned and leak-tested if it was me, but miata heads are pretty durable.

If you want to avoid the labor, call John Wagliardo (Johnwags)

What would be the advantage of getting a rebuilt head compared to getting the current head milled flat and checked for cracks?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Walsted

What would be the advantage of getting a rebuilt head compared to getting the current head milled flat and checked for cracks?

---

None.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Walsted

What would be the advantage of getting a rebuilt head compared to getting the current head milled flat and checked for cracks?

---

In my experience, you take a head in for a bit of milling and "crack checking," and you end up rebuilding it for North of $500. A good machine shop will always find something that drives you into a rebuild -- and they're not lying -- heads need to be periodically rebuilt, lots of moving parts.

With an off-the-shelf reman head, you'll usually save money, time and get a warranty. What you won't get is custom work. That may or may not be important to you.

I am trying to get the car dependably back on the road for as little money/effort as possible. It overheated really bad, and their are salvage engines with less miles than the current engine listed online for less than $900. I have no emotional attachment to the current head. What are people asking for the initial estimate to determine what needs done to fix the warp and potential cracks??

Rogue(westside) or John Wags(eastside) are likely the most affordable options to get a reliable diagnosis/estimate of damage. TDR does good work, but will probably take longer to get it in for an appt.

If you can afford $1500, just get an LKQ or JDM motor and pay one of those guys to install it. You wont regret it. I doubt you'll get out of a simple head removal/machine work/reinstall + miscellaneous stuff for much less than $600-800, doing the labor yourself. $1K if you pay someone.