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Changing the CAS 0-ring, the markings I made before removal managed to get wiped off, so now I'm sure my timing is going to be off. Idle was already too high to begin with.
Anybody got a tach and timing light they can help walk me through this sometime this weekend? I'd appreciate it. Got plenty of Duff.::Banana::
Maybe! ::Banana::
Let me make sure my timing light is working. I also have a Tach / Dwell meter. ::Flag::
Okay, still trying to line up the tangs with the slot they go into. One of them has a corner notched out, so I assume it only goes in one correct way. Using a mirror, I can't see any difference in the two slots inside. Is there something I'm not seeing here?
Right, it will only go in one way... you may have to give it a good nudge.
I bet your lining up on the cam, also a bit of oil on the o-ring will help make it slide into place a bit easier.
Take a peek at this and whatever ya do don't force anything.
Yeah that's the link you sent me before that I've been going by. I'm going to tackle it again after some lunch.
http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_orin...s/image002.jpg
It can only go in one way, and the bar on the CAS is not on the centerline so it can only go back in one way.
YES!!!Finally got that sucker in. It was your tip about the bar not being on the centerline that made everything fall into place. Using a mirror I could see that I needed to rotate 180 degrees for it to line up properly.
Now all I've got to do is set timing.
WOW! Do they still make those things???????Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Required items if ya own a 40 year old Cadillac, or an old fire truck! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMerv
If Mick can't find his timing light, I have one.
RJ
Or on your old MGB :-DQuote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Well I scored a timing light and set it this morning using the tach in the dash. It's still idling high at 1200 rpm, even after warmup and resetting idle with the diagnostic ten/ground jumpered. Set screw is all the way bottomed out, so the timing is probably off too. What do I do to get the idle down ?
What did the timing light show, where did you sent the timing??
Bet the idle is high due to a crap filled intake or inaccurate gauge, have you cleaned the intake or sea foamed the car yet??
I was just fixing to go dig out my timing light and tach, should I hold on that plan??
I set the timing at 11BTDC and just now got back from taking a spin to the airport. Low power and no pickup in lower RPMS now so I'm guessing that setting it at 1200 RPM probably gave me more like 7 or 8 BTDC.
Haven't done any intake cleaning or anything yet, it was running pretty good before, with the exception of the high idle. What do you think Mick, should I go ahead and advance it till it feels right and then work on cleaning it out? Or do you think the gauge could be off by that much? The inside of the CAS was really nasty, so I'm sure it could use a flush.
I'd start with a good cleaning, then reset the timing to 12-14 range once ya get it cleaned up a bit.
Some stuff on cleaning the intake.
I'll have to tackle this project later. Family emergency requires me to go out of town right now.
thanks
So today I cleaned out the TB with a toothbrush (with TB cleaner) and wiped a bunch of black crap out. Now its idling at 2200 rpm! Now 1200 doesn't seem so bad in hindsight. If I can't figure it out by Sunday, can anybody at Jarrett's TechDay maybe show me what I've got going on here?
This may be kind of obvious, but if you have a high idle I would suspect a vacuum leak or a bad IAC valve. There are lots of little vacuum lines that may have popped off so take a look around with the engine running and see if you can see or hear the leak. I can usually hear an leak if the motor does not have really loud HLA's. I would look at the cruise control and the emissions crap on the passenger side.