i will go to aj. not lowering, stock springs, just added kyb agx's
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i will go to aj. not lowering, stock springs, just added kyb agx's
Using the long bolt method, your alignment will be fine. Nothing adjustable has been moved.Quote:
Originally Posted by OZMDD
+1. Removing the long a-arm bolt will not affect your alignment settings in any way. It is also by far the easiest way to replace the front shocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by sammm
I would still recommend having an alignment after any suspension work. New shocks may ride at different heights from what you replaced, and whether the suspension was in droop or not when you tightened everything back up will make a difference.
I've done 4 of these in the last year, two in the last couple of days. Breaking the upper ball joint is the easiest way I have found.
Why are you guys doing all this extra work? As long as the sway bar end link is disconnected, all you need once the bottom bolt and and hat nuts are off is to use a pry bar to force the lower a-arm down a couple of inches, pull the shock up to clear the lower a-arm, angle the top of theshock assembly towards the rear, and it will come right out. I did this twice on Saturday after three Spec Miatas tried to occupy the same space at TWS!
If you can do that with stock springs and a pry bar, you are more man than I will ever be. Even with all my weight on the hub, I couldn't force it down enough to get the strut/spring to clear the fender. Maybe with lowering springs the clearance is better.
Don't try to take it out TOWARD you (the fender). Do it parallel to the body, with the bottom shock mount toward the front of the car and top hat to the rear of the car, and there is plenty of room. I've always done them that way...since 1992!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMerv
You talking about the front shocks or the rears??Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMerv
Long bolt FTW! (on the fronts) ;)
Prying the A arm down on the rears works. No way it will clear on the front. Not with the stock length shocks and springs.
My thoughts exactly! I was just about to post that! And as for using the jack on the rears in that pic posted by someone...hit the gym! I'm not exactly buffed up and I just push down on the rear hub with my foot! Who needs power tools and jacks and stuff?!Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMerv
Granted I've replaced the suspension on a Miata at least 20 times by now, but I think I did all four on my NA in just 2 hours last time, including time for a beer in between!
...and then you tear the upper ball joint boot, which is not a boot that is supposed to be replaced leaving you with either replacing the upper control arm (since it is a complete unit) or using a knife to cut the remainder of the boot off and ziptie a universal boot that you hope fits.Quote:
Originally Posted by creek
Yes I know from experience and have new upper control arms...eh I needed them anyways with the mileage my NA has!
Long bolt method is my hands-down winner. Easy, no ball joints to break, no alignment issues to fix (immediately), and the rear was even easier, though I did remove the upper control arm bolt there as well, but at the outboard mount. Super-easy.
Wouldn't know....never torn a boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by icepenguin66
How many times have you busted the balljoints out on your Miata? Easier to simply remove one bolt with no risk than to remove cotter pin, remove castle nut, get the balljoint separater and hammer to bang away at it and risk tearing the boot. I remember at least a couple times, the balljoints did not want to break loose so had to hammer the shit out of the tuning fork, tearing the old brittle rubber boots. Plus their is still some tension on the control arm from the long bolt being torqued requiring unneccessary effort to push it down to remove the shock, instead of everything dropping nicely out of the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by creek
I guess we'll agree to disagree. I've never been able to do it your way and I have tried believe me. I am in the process of modifying a screw type press/separator to fit but after I have done the joints once they will usually pop with a light tap on the side of the knuckle. I guess you do the method you know with the tools you have. I haven't done the long bolt version because I couldn't get it loose the first time I tried it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/gifs/clear.gif
Not to fuel an argument but Creek's way worked well on my car. My balls were pretty difficult to break, Creek said they were the toughest he'd dealt with, we had to beat at them for a while but we didn't tear a boot.
I only posted just to be able to say that.::Banana::
Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanoTejano
Not sure I would want Creek beating onmy balls. He's a big boy and might break something. ::BaHump::
FWIW, the first time I did a shock swap in my Miata, I used the ball joint method (I was used to working on Honduhs at the time, and this was pretty standard on their cars). Tore the boot, ended up having to replace the control arm, just like icepenguin. Not worth it, imho. I've been using the long bolt method for the last seven years, and I've never had an issue with it.
Just come by a tech day and after doing it the long bolt way you'll see its easy and better. I was going to replace my shocks this weekend but broke my elbow in a hockey game!Quote:
Originally Posted by creek