Don't buy the rubber slanted things they show in the picture you showed me?Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
They look like they are more safe than the jack stands.
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Don't buy the rubber slanted things they show in the picture you showed me?Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
They look like they are more safe than the jack stands.
Wow....Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataProtege
Read the words on that link that I sent you for how to do the radiator flush. It spells out all the items you need, like your rubber slanted things. :facepalm:
Here is the link again - http://www.techguys.ca/howto/coolant_flush.html
Let's review some of those pesky wordsReading this post I'm thinking you are in way over your head on this project. Best of luck!Quote:
While it is certainly not required, placing the vehicle on ramps may aid in the flush + fill process. If you are inclined to raise the vehicle for ease of access, be sure to keep the vehicle level.
Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Well you responded with a picture of trains crashing into each other. So I thought you meant the ramps were bad and the jack stands were better. I just have a hard time accepting that something like that wont fall over if the car is bumped into. Though they probably are safe.
Haha! That's the first time I remember you coming across cranky, POS.
Well here goes nothing. Let's see how I do. (2 hours later posting about broken radiator plug)
Jackstands will fall over?? I'm in Haslet. My car is on jackstands (has been for over a year now...again). You are more than welcome to stop by and shake the living crap out of my car and see how stable jackstands are. Obviously their stability depends on how the user sets them up, but when done correctly, the car won't go anywhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataProtege
Haha, I believe I'll buy them then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
Harbor Freight is your friend.
Update: Bought 4 jack stands and a jack and the guy said there was a special on the jack stands so I also got this little skateboard type of device to lay on and go under the car for free. The best part? Spent 49.99!
little skateboard device = creeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
Thanks :)
This Creeper is worth $50 by itself. Not to mention they sale the jack stands for $50 a pair... and I got 4! I think I got an amazing deal. Returns + Jack stand specials = Good
Now I just have to wait for my car to cool off. Past a new NC model on the way home, we drove together for a while, but I got bored as she was doing 55 mph down the 65 mph highway.
How close to the base (Carswell or NAS Fort Worth) are you? I'm tempted to stop by and give you some pointers so you don't hurt yourself or your car, I should be off work in a few hours.
so how did this turn out?
I hope he's not still under the car.
Apologize for keeping everyone wondering if I made it. I managed it just fine and drove around for a few hours testing it! Bubbling noise gone! Temperature perfectly in between half and 3/4!
I had the car running with water running through the radiator and pumping out of the hose from the engine block until the water was crystal clear, then I put the hoses and cap back on, filled it with half a bottle of non diluted antifreeze (half gallon, maybe a little more than half) and then added water until at the correct spot in the overflow tank.
While I had the air tunnel thing that goes to the engine pulled off to get access to the hoses.... I tightened a nut to make the belt on the A/C compressor very tight, I drove it around a bit and the squeaking noise was even worse, so I turned it the opposite way until it was pretty decently loose... and the noise is now gone. I am however worried that I have it too loose. It doesn't seem loose enough to come off, and the noise is gone, so I will take this as a two birds one stone.
Very happy with my work today.
EDIT: I also had the heater on full blast as was suggested!
Thanks everyone for your help and for your consideration of my well being. The jack stands were very stable, and I managed not to have a pressurized radiator cap blow into my face, or break a hose, or a fragile plastic piece!
There's an actuall measurement on how tight the belts should be. From the Factory Service Mnaual for a 1.6L I assume the 1.8L is very similar in this area but you need to apply 22 lbs of force to the belt (a fish scale from Walmart works great for this), deflection of the belt should be 8 to 9mm for a new belt and 9 to 10mm for a used belt. I like to keep mine towards the loose end of the spec but still within spec to help preserve bearing life in the accessories.
If you run them real tight you will burn up bearings quickly if you run them too loose the belt slips and you get squealing.
Seems like something I'm not intelligent enough to do. I'm considering taking it to my mechanic and having all the belts replaced. Though it's not making any squealing sounds....Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinbanditrider
Also... theres 2 other belts (i believe)... and the one on the left side of the motor... is obscenely tight. Where as the A/C one has an inch of slack. Should this one be that tight? I never messed with it.
If you have AC and Power Steering you should have two belts. A "V-Belt" for powering the Alternator and Water pump and a "serpentine" belt for powering the AC compressor and Power Steering. The only other belt you have on the car is the Timing belt which you should be able to see.Checking the deflection is easy. Get the fish scale and tape measure. You can do it on your own but having an extra set of hands helps. You might have to get creative with some twine depending on clearance around the belt but it's not hard and you know that it's adjusted correctly.
That would be a smart move.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataProtege
:snack:lol! This is a hilarious thread. Reuse the springy do-hickeys holding the hoses on. They work better than the screwy type ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®