Quote:
Originally Posted by michelleclement
Are the stock belts still in it at all?
I can't remember anytime anyone checked an airbag for an inspection.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michelleclement
Are the stock belts still in it at all?
I can't remember anytime anyone checked an airbag for an inspection.
Added pictures of trailer to web album and lowered price of the car.
Someone buy this car! It's a heck of a deal. If I was in the market for one, I'd definitely consider it. The issues I thought it had are simple fixes according to Gary. "Christine" needs to find a home with an enthusiast that will drive this car as it was meant to be driven. Don't let her reputation scare you away.
http://www.plymouthcentral.com/files/Christine11.jpg
Can you please share what those fixes are?
Stock belts are missing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Treibenschnell
Nobody's ever hassled me about my lack of airbag.
If I was going to drive the car reliably on the street, I'd say it needs the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by mia5067
Seat belts
A proper Torsen diff out of a 1.8 (for durability)
A/C (I think everything's there, just needs to be hooked up and charged)
Radio
I drove it late last year and it ran great, had plenty of power. The car's got really low miles and it's in excellent shape.
My airbag light is persistently on in my car ('93 dash swap into a '96 and ALL airbag components removed) and it went through inspection without a hitch.Quote:
Originally Posted by trickyrix
Seatbelts, on the other hand, may be a deal breaker depending on who you bring it to.
Nope but Gary at Track Dog Racing can.Quote:
Originally Posted by mia5067
I saw a diff on sale for 750.00. Is that typical? Any idea how many hours of labor would be involved?Quote:
Originally Posted by trickyrix
Easy swap if it's in the carrier. $750 seems on the high side to me, but I haven't priced them lately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Frontier
A 1.8 diff swap will require a new drive shaft and axles to go along with the diff. It's a straightforward job that should only take a couple of hours (as long as you can free up the exhaust bolts). It's something you can do yourself if you're halfway handy with tools. If you don't care about having a limited-slip (Torsen) rear end, a standard 1.8 open diff should be a lot cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Frontier
I want it!
going to look at it friday
I was told the car will not idle so i called gary at track dog racing and he said it needs an IAC valve. After looking up the part it seems quite expensive. Is there any way to test the IAC when i go to look at it?
http://www.miata.net/garage/isc.html
The resistance checks worked for me, mine was bad.
thanks. i really want this car but i dont want to buy it if it is going to take a bunch of money and time to get it running properly. i would hate to buy the car then buy an IAC valve just for it to still not idle. Gary sounds like he knew exactly what he was talking about when i told him michelle said the car wont idle. As for the seatbelts, if i cant get it to pass inspection at the place i go to with the race harness, i found a good deal for factory belts on ebay. As for the steering wheel, if i cant pass inspection with that, A guy i go to school with just swapped out his wheel so i can get a hold of one to put in for inspection.
You can pick up a used IAC for not too much. I wouldn't let that stop you. Gary may even have one laying around.
I had the same thing happen on my SC 99, it was the IAC.
With all the money in parts on that car and the fact that the mileage is so low, you cant go wrong....all the hard stuff has been done.
well tomorrow is the big day, going to look at it after class. wish me luck!
well great on my way home got a text and the car sold