Reading Miata.net, first thing you did wrong.
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Reading Miata.net, first thing you did wrong.
That's why I ask all my questions here! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jeff_man
Honestly, I didn't know a naturally aspirated build to 150hp is that cheap. I figured it would cost at least $4k and up.
Oh, and to be clear, I'm not going to track the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by BFPW
For me, if it's not 100% reliable with very little maintenance, then it's not fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by BFPW
You can do MSpnp, 2001 bottom end, 99-head, and a4.10 w/6-speed and go very fast...on a track. You'll hate that on the street. You can make 150whp for probably $2500 without finding deals using off the shelf parts and a John Day Machine.Quote:
Originally Posted by BFPW
You're not "living". If you're not going to track the car, and you're certain of that, then the car will see so little stress/duty that it won't break.Quote:
Originally Posted by BFPW
Ive heard I can rebuild my 1.6 transmission into a 1.8 and upgrade it. Is this true and if not what can handle 250 hp to 300hp?
I don't know if that first part is true, but on average it will cost $300+ in labor just to do swap out parts. When you can get a used 5 speed for $250, it's not only worth it to rebuild.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon-92 miata
6speed's are the only miata trans that can handle 250hp+.
Well damn but a 6 speed won't fit in a 92 Miata will it?
it fits
Holy shit! I think I might do that what's their stock hp and tq anyone know?
their? What are you talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon-92 miata
The 6 speed Miatas horse power and torque
has nothing to do with any power lvl, the 6 speed miata's are 01+ se with 110whp and 04 msm with a different 6 speed with 150whp. the msm trans just has stronger gears getting you past that 200-250hp braking point of the 5 speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon-92 miata
My California buddy says the 5-speed has powdered metal gears, 6-speed has "real" metal gears, and the MSM trans is still no cracked open and explored. At 390whp, he goes through them quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_man
Damn that's awesome.
Why is this? I know that Bellwilliam is really fast, but in the dyno sheets I've seen the Rotrex seems to make all it's power and torque pretty high up the RPM range. I'm only asking because I thought about replacing my MP62 with the Rotrex if for no other reason than to save some weight and space in the engine bay. But I like the low end power of the MP62 and don't want to give that up.Quote:
Originally Posted by SixAce
I know I'm late to the game on this one, but are you asking about the new kits or the older ones you can probably pick up used?Quote:
Originally Posted by BFPW
You've clearly run across too many posts from POPSTOY about his $10k N/A engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by BFPW
Read up on the junkyard motor that Emilio @ 949 Racing put together a while back. There should still be a link to his car blog on the 949 site.
From my total lack of expertise, and just from reading stuff on the webz:Quote:
Originally Posted by MINI-P
1.) More efficent (lower intake temps)
2.) Easier upgrade path to over 250 hp
3.) My car is tracked more than street and the high rpm on track is it's natural environment, so the powerband should not matter.
Pretty much number 2 though. I thought I would be happy with 200 hp. Then I got tired of seeing vette tailights grow smaller on the straights. I think 300 woud be fun and, from what I've read, it's easier with a rotrex. But I could be way off and totally incorrect. :D
I really don't see the reasoning for going through the troube of FI on a 99% street car? But then, I drive like an old lady on the street. ::Rant::
It doesn't really matter how you get to 200 or 250 (two wildly different experiences), it just matters that you get there. Replacing your blower for the Rotrex is not the best idea I've ever heard in my life.
Yes, there are better things to spend my money on. But I think I'm in the camp with SixAce that if I had it to do over again I'd prolly go with the Rotrex. I still need an ECU, Aero and a lot more driving lessons. Not necessarily in that order. In fact everyone just go ahead and reverse that order in your head.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr brg
Just my advise.
I personally think all miatas should be boosted. They hold up great and don't give trouble at low boost.
If you want high boost. Plan on problems.
150hp goal. I would think of nothing but boost, and would push 190hp via turbo dead reliable. I would just max safe RPMs for M45.
After that hp, things can get hairy.
Track.....I would go supercharger. Street I would go either. All out power and drag racing..... Nothing but turbo. (I haven't ridden in a M62, I would check that out before deciding)
My experance: Superchargers can be controlled better out of the hole, and turbos suck them up on straights. So which do you prefer control or power.
Either way....I say boost but stop at 10psi and run bandaids, and a WBO2. After 10psi you need management and get ready to tune all the time.
Most people say bandaids suck. But if you use them like you should they are best. But after 10psi get AWAY FROM THEM! The have a purpose... low boost.
With low boost they are wounderful.
If you want 11psi plus, GET managment! It is the only way to go....Unless you like piston chunks......
In a nut shell. I would go either SC or Turbo, run a intercooler, WBO2, bandaids and stay 10 or less. You won't have problems that way.
Anyone care to ellaborate on the "Rotrex has an easier upgrade path to 250" comment? I would have thought turbos would be the way to go if you wanted to make over 230 reliably... (I know there are SC's out there making more).