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Three weeks of Miata ownership and my first CEL.
Autozone checked the codes.
Reading the printout's things the codes have in common:
1) Ignition system / spark plug wires etc
2) Vacuum Leak
Anyone get these combined codes before?
Car is a 1999 w/ 68K miles.
BTW Car is running fine.
Search for P0420. Plenty of old threads.
I was wondering if anyone has gotten them in combo.Quote:
Originally Posted by sammm
Coming from the VW World a Vagcom scan pretty much isolated the part.
Not so much here.
The P0420 code in my searches has been mostly isolated to the :cat: or the O2 Sensors.
Wondering if anyone had this combo that can point to something more specific?
P420 is sometimes the Coil Pack failing or spark plug wires. And the end result is the P420 which is the cat. When the plugs don't fire correctly it leaves unburnt fuel. When that fuel doesn't ignite in the piston chamber it goes into the Catalytic Converter and ignites there. It can also be the EGR Valve or the EGR Port in the upper part of the intake manifold that needs to be cleaned.
Believe 303 is the coilpack, or at least ignition related. If your coilpack is going and you're not running on all 4 cylinders it won't take long to destroy the cat.
If you can verify/fix the ignition before driving far it may clear up the 420 and you still get some life out of it, but I've heard of many cat's dying this way.
Ok I will try and test the coil pack and spark plug wires on Saturday with my Multimeter and see if I have any luck.
Anyone want to lend a hand? ::Banana::
Looking at your profile a location seems to be lacking. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
A mulitmeter won't always tell you if the coil pack is bad. Sometimes it's a heat related failure - in other words, it might not show up until the pack gets warm or hot.
RJ
Added!Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
I live around 183 and MacArthur.
Can trade scratch removal/reduction from my Porter Cable for expertise and help.
So do I need to start replacing spark plugs and wires (clear codes)... if it reappears then post cat o2 (clear code)... if it reappears then coil pack etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by channelmaniac
Again the car seems to be running fine... it seems to be running strong.
Oh yeah, Hillcrest Oaks. I knew it sounded familiar, but when I was growing up there we never called it that. Lots of big oaks on Hillcrest, Summit, etc...Mom still lives there so I go over there often.Quote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
You didn't happen to buy that house on Crestview, did you?
So when was the last time the car got plugs and wires??
Helpful link - http://www.madracki.com/miata/dtc.html
Which house is that? I feel a pulling my leg moment coming... "You know the one with the murders..." "The one that was a condemend crack house" LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by cam76034
Yep... I live one block over from Summit on Crestview.
It really is a gem of a neighborhood still.
In the summer it sure is nice to see all the big trees with leaves shading the road.
I dont know... I can ask the previous owner but he didnt give me any records with the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
I paid $4,500... so I wasn't too disappointed with the lack of records.
I also got a Miata shop manual with all of the codes and repairs... the thing is about 7" thick. (no jokes please)
Well set down the PC and put some plugs and wires in it..... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
Ok... that will be my first thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
It probably needs them anyway.
Any recommendation on type? No plans for FI.
How many starts does it take to clear the CEL if situation has been repaired?
Can't go wrong with OEM. You might check this out too.Quote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
http://www.miata.net/garage/manifold/index.html
It's drive cycles not just number of starts for your '99.Quote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
NGK Wires are going to be the most popular I'd guess, and NGK OEM plugs are also all the rage.
I have a OBD scanner that can clear all codes, then you can see if they return after you change the plugs and wires, but this weekend my dance card is full.....
You can disconnect the battery for a few seconds and clear the codes. Then do the drive cycles and if there is still a problem they will come back.:D
Good logical idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by riverracer
I will try this tonight and see if it comes back by the weekend. :drive:
If it does I will start with the wires and plugs and if it returns continue to sink more money into it until I am broke and crying. :D
When it comes to clearing codes by this method some folks say disconnect for a few seconds, others say 30 minutes, hold the brake pedal for ten seconds, pull the main fuse, etc...I've done it by disconnecting the battery and leaving it overnight. Harbor Freight sells the readers for $39.Quote:
Originally Posted by riverracer
It's funny how these codes always magically appear shortly after you buy a used vehicle. Same thing with my first miata, the airbag light started blinking a week or two after I bought it. Of course the PO said it had never done it before.:rolleyes:
New NGK plugs are $1.59 at O'Reilly. I've got some plug wires I just pulled off mine if you want to try that. Heck, I'll even go back to my buddy atwe'reHighly and pick another set just to hear him bitch and moan some more.::Bawl::
One more thing, you said it's running strong, right? Then don't go messing around with Seafoam or cleaning the intake or anything like that just yet. Start with the simple fixes and go from there.
ditto for the plug wires also..............Quote:
Originally Posted by channelmaniac
Put wires and plugs in it, probably needs an 02 sensor also at that mileage.
My 99 used to set the P0420 code several times a week, since installing all of the above its come back once in 6 months.
I am in your area pretty regular, have a scanner and know how to use it. PM me if you need some help this weekend.
I've found that 30 seconds works just as well as 30 minutes...but after much more than than a minute I had to reset all the preset's in my MP3 Player and Radio....;)Quote:
Originally Posted by cam76034
I've always heard to disco the battery and press on the brake pedal for a few seconds afterwards is all that's needed.
Thanks! Will do.Quote:
Originally Posted by VFR750
Did you do both O2's?
I have read that as well... helps zap all remaining energy in the system.Quote:
Originally Posted by sammm
You like my technical jargon?
If I were you I would hold off the O2 sensors until I change out the plugs and wire first. Get the NGK for both. I believe NGK is the OEM brand. The O2 sensor is not cheap! Don't ask me why I know! :-(
Not the one on the corner???::Shocked:::Shocked:::Shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
You were provided with the full disclosure statement on that house, weren't you?;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam76034
You are an evil man! :D
To all I splurged and travelled the mile or so to Harbor Freight and bought the OBD2 Reader.
I cleared the codes and on my commute this morning it did not return.
I dug into my Mazda shop manual and found a way to test resistance of the spark plug wires using a multimeter.
I will do that this weekend (will probably take pics for a DIY) and then go from there.
Maybe I will just replace the plugs if the wire are still within spec.
I'll be over at mom's house sometime this weekend, I'll come on by (all the way across the street) and bring my NGK plug wires I replaced, in case you've got a bad one on that #3 cylinder.
BTW, the neighbors are all ::Whisp::about the guy who is always standing in the middle of the street taking pictures of his car.;)
Should be home most of the weekend... I will PM you my home and cell #.Quote:
Originally Posted by cam76034
I will go ahead and test that #3 wire for sure.
I only replaced the front 02 sensor, that is the one that controls the A/F ratio, I bought one online for $90 that was a direct plug in, no cutting of wires needed.
Checking the plug wires (or anything electrical) with a multi meter is better than nothing but a lot of times the item in question needs to be hot and under load to find a problem.
Wires and plugs are cheap, your stole that car for what, less than $5k, pony up and spend some bucks........;)
$4,500 with a shop manual. :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by VFR750
I am still reeling from the $39 OBD2 purchase yesterday, so need to let the wallet cool before I can get the plugs. ;)
In reality I am biting my lip everyday trying to not purchase 6UL's, Full Suspension and a Roll Bar.
Kags can attest how I will buy a car... dump loads of mod money in it and before a year of ownership I am on to something else.
I feel like saying "I am 2 1/2 months sober".
I know what you mean, I said I was going to keep mine stock. Tires, wheels and a roll bar later I am thinking I need some sway bars......
So XM_Rocks, any more CEL's since clearing it last weekend?
I know... It always is just one more item.Quote:
Originally Posted by VFR750
No more CEL's! ::Banana::Quote:
Originally Posted by cam76034
So it has been a week since I cleared them.
Had an odd idle dip at a light today... but a blip on the throttle and it never returned. :rolleyes:
I am going to order the orange pad tonight... I really cant wait to see what we can do about your scratch.
I can work on your scratch and you can work on installing my sway bars and roll bar. :D
Sure! After all...NMCQuote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
Hmmm... I'll install your sway bars in exchange for a PC job. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
i have some new Live wires for sale :)
OOOOOhhhhh AAAhhhhQuote:
Originally Posted by XM_Rocks
http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/2006ApplicationGuide.jpg
Hey XM you polished on any classic cars? I'm wanting to get the PC to refresh my 'lac but I'm worried about screwing up it's 41 year old paint.... :scared:
Thats easy:Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
Just take the twisted wool pad... flatten a brillo pad on top of the pad and use a 50/50 water and sand solution. Should be fine. :D
Seriously though start with the worst area using a lighter and work your way more coarse.
I was standing nearby when a friend of mine did his single stage 1990 Nissan pickup and took off lots of oxidation. The good thing on the single stages is you dont have to worry about stripping clear.
I would start with an orange pad (not really agressive) and you may have to go to yellow.
I would love to help out... if the Miata took 5 hours that big land barge should take an entire weekend though. :punchout:
Can you post up some pics of the problem areas on the land yacht?