Anyone got one laying around? Doesn't have to be super light, just a little lighter than stock, i'm already going to run a 1.6 clutch on a 94 so I just want a little more.
Looking to spend under $100, hopefully.
Let me know what you have.
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Anyone got one laying around? Doesn't have to be super light, just a little lighter than stock, i'm already going to run a 1.6 clutch on a 94 so I just want a little more.
Looking to spend under $100, hopefully.
Let me know what you have.
I have a stock 1.6l flywheel that would love to be lightened by a machine shop.
And was just going to PM about the cooling system stuff - got tied up, this coming weekend OK (1/29) to drop it off? Sorry about that...apparently curtains are more important.
EDIT: Just saw the other thread you brought back up. Guess you don't want that option, so never mind. LOL
Well, i'm not sure actually... I have a stocker 1.6 flywheel, and a friend & I are going to drive around to a couple shops tomorrow to actually show them what i'm talking about. I'm weighing my options now, only thing i'm relatively sure of is I don't want to spend more than $100 on this either way.
Edit: sure this weekend works for me. Just let me know when you're in my side of teh woods.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-P...Q5fAccessories
about $200...$100 more gets the flywheel and clutch I have. this is as cheap as it gets.
I saw that, damn good deal. Unfortunately, $200 is about $100 more than I want to spend now. I could wait, but I need to get my clutch soon. I know it's a long shot, but i'm mainly fishing for a used one. If I can't fine one i'll just use this stocker 1.6. It's a little better than my 1.8 flywheel at least.
Guy I know in PA is selling this:
"Fidanza flywheel- 30-40k miles. I rev match every shift and am VERY easy on clutches so there should be plenty of friction material left. OE spec, made in Japan clutch is included. This flywheel improved acceleration more than my full RB exhaust, highly recommended upgrade. $200"
He said he is taking offers, so you should be able to get him down some. Or at least free shipping. I can get pics of it all if you'd like. And no, it's not the same guy as the cup holder. I bought a part I needed from this kid yesterday - took all of an hour after he sent me a PayPal invoice till when he sent me tracking.
Is this for a 1.6 or 1.8? I already have a 1.6 clutch kit sitting in the box, not sure if I'd want to go with a used clutch. Would he just sell the flywheel you think?
You asked for 1.6l parts ;) I wouldn't recommend a used clutch either, but figured if you didn't have one already it'd be TCB for the clutch and flywheel with not very many miles on it. I can ask about just the flywheel, but I bet he'll only knock off a few bucks. So you'd pay nearly as much for just the flywheel. I will ask though, you never know.
^That would be great, let me know what he says.
If you can't get the fidanza for cheap just be patient and save some $$$. Don't waste $100 lightening a stock one.
That's kinda what I'm thinking. I just hope my throwout bearing is patient as well, heh. I have the cash just don't want to dip into savings. If I can get the stock one machined for less than $50 or so maybe. If not ill spend the $200, not like ill get another chance.
My luck the timing belt will blow directly after and my wife will say I told you so :)
While I'm at it y'all see any potential running a smaller 1.6 clutch with a 10lb or so flywheel on a 1.8? Don't want to go too extreme although I'm sure ill love the more fastAr.
Guy said he can do $200 shipped for just the flywheel.
You'll notice a difference going to lighter weight rotating parts. I know when I put the lighter 1.8l flywheel on my 1.6l while it was still NA, I noticed a rather large difference. I even noticed it after I added boost. But, I've heard from a lot of lightly boosted 1.8l owners that a lighter flywheel is "useless." I don't understand their thought process on that one, but more than just a few have said that to me, so who knows. I don't know very many NA 1.8 owners that mod the car at all, so I never heard anything from them.
Personally, if I could switch to a 7 or 8lb flywheel, I'd trade my 9.x one in a heartbeat.
My old '97 had the light weight (10lb iirc) Fidanza on it. My car was only 120whp, but it made it so much more fun to drive. (The ACT Xtreme clutch could handle abuse, but it abused me back in traffic) If/when I have to change clutches on the MSM, I'll go with a milder clutch, but definitely get the lightweight flywheel.
Thanks for the advise. Rob, i'll think about that $200 deal and let you know. Do you by chance know the weight on that Fidanza flywheel? Thanks for looking into it for me.
BTW I just reread my last post, I was half asleep. What I was trying to ask is do yall see any potential problems running a super light flywheel on an already lighter 1.6 clutch on a 1.8?? I guess it would be just that much better, but maybe a pain at the stoplights? Basically I don't know if there's a 'too light'.
It's an OEM clutch BTW.
I don't know the exact weight, no. But I'm almost positive that is the original version of the FM rebadged Fidanza flywheel I have that FM *added* weight to (circa 2003, and I even had the earlier version they sold - I think they don't use Fidanza anymore). I have the 1.8l version though, so it should be heavier than the 1.6l. I want to say mine is 9.x pounds now, but it was 10.x from FM (I removed the weight they added).
The only "negative" is that your revs will drop faster between shifts. If you like to take your sweet time shifting, that might be annoying. If your car has idle droop issues already, a lighter flywheel could make it worse (less time for the car to correct). The first few times you drive the car with a much lighter flywheel, you will probably slip the clutch a lot or stall, but after a few times you really won't notice it. Honestly, I have a terrible time driving cars without superlight flywheels now. It's like driving a puck-style clutch on the street - after a few hours of driving time, you won't even realize anything is different until you get into a different car.
People will tell you a lighter flywheel will be louder on deceleration, but I think they're just splitting hairs at that point.
As to "too light" that is all personal preference, really. I've driven a stock-ish 1.6l car with an 8lb flywheel and I loved it. Once I get my car together and get a torque figure, I will one day look for a 1.6l clutch that will hold whatever I make so I can get a 7 or 8lb flywheel in there. But that's just me.
Ok. Man its very very tempting at this point... one more question. Does he have a photo of it? Does it have any deposits that would need to be resurfaced or anything like that, or is it drop in condition?
Got one. Thanks Rob!
Fidanza aluminum. Weighed @ 7.3lbs on our postal scale at work. I'm happy.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...203_222232.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...203_222251.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...203_222324.jpg
Pictured here next to a stock 1.6 flywheel weighing 17.7lbs on the same scale.
Rob, looking at the 2nd photo, do you think it'd be worth my time to scuff up the friction plate with some 400 sandpaper or something?
Since you're not using the same clutch, I would scuff it up if you're not going to get it cut (or replace the surface disc, which might be cheaper). I would consult the Google first though - doing it by hand with sandpaper might mess it up. I would say a light scuffing would be ideal, but I'm not basing that on anything other than "common sense" friction surface ideas...I would definitely get a few more opinions before you go doing anything to it.
http://www.gomiata.com/mamiflfrplby.html
Ouch, $80 +shipping. I think i'll stick with the homemade remedy :) Read a thread on Miata.net that suggested just a light scuffing with fine grit as long as it's not warped. Not going to take any metal off, just enough to get the clutch material off the plate. I'll do more research later so I make sure to do it right.
What is up with the surface of that flywheel?? Any chance you could get us an up close shot of it??
Almost looks like it has been hot.
Holy crap at $80! I paid like $35 from FM for mine years ago. jeebus
Hot spots are not your friend on a flywheel.
Link - http://www.perfectionclutch.com/flywheels.htmlQuote:
Flywheel Hot Spots cause chatter. Re-surfacing a flywheel doesn't always remove hot spots! The flywheel may look shiny and pretty but the hot spots will often still be there. Service the System™ by replacing the flywheel and the clutch set at the same time.
Ahh...shit. Don't want to spend another $80, but don't want chatter either.
I'll get a better closeup shot when I get home. Looked to me like material transfer, but it's the first time looking at a flywheel for me.
FWIW, it looks like material transfer to me too. But a better pic would be a good idea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...i/P1020379.jpg
Better pic.
Edit, for some reason the uploader isn't working and photobucket won't host anything larger than 1024x768. I think you can see the full size version here.
https://picasaweb.google.com/Gremste...54885903581442
Edit #2... Here I zoomed in for you.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...el_closeup.jpg
Photo hosting fail... Not much of a zoom but you get the idea. *facepalm*
I think I'd buy a new ring just to be on the safe side......
All of the dark parts have texture, I can almost pick them with my fingernail, if that helps. Seems like material on the ring, not sure if the metal under the material has gotten too hot though.
Not discounting your diagnosis, I just really, really don't want to spend anything else on this flywheel. I'm already $200 over budget for the clutch job and will hopefully have a $400 roll bar in the mail next week...
I understand the $$$ part but I'm also looking at the wear on the ring already as well as the spots. Can they be resurfaced or are they a one time only use ring??
But hey if it becomes a problem you can just pull the clutch out and start over again. ;-)
^That's an idea! :)
I heard somewhere that Fidanza says you can resurface them only once. Then you probably want to replace, but you can resurface them at least once.
And while there are marks from wear, from looking at the disk it doesn't look like it has been worn down any. But again I really don't know what i'm talking about...or looking at, heh.
I want to do it right definitely, I do not want a half assed clutch job that chatters.
Can you flip the ring??
^good question.
Paging Rob!
Edit: quick search on Miata.net.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...anza+resurface
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...anza+resurface
Looks like nobody knows for sure, but seem to say if it's not too bad hit it with fine grit sandpaper, or get it turned at a shop. Replace if it's warped.
I believe the screw holes are countersunk. I suspect they are only countersunk on the one side.Quote:
Originally Posted by POS Racing
1. You can resurface the ring. I never heard the just once thing, but makes sense to me.
2. Still looks like material transfer to me. From my experience, hot spots are normally dark spots with a "clear" (i.e. silver disc color) ring directly circling the darker spots.
3. Getting it resurfaced or replacing is not a bad idea at all (in fact I believe I even mentioned that before the flywheel was even purchased - but that's my personal opinion) BUT I think hitting it with some fine sand paper would be OK too. I'm not the one that will spend the few hours to remove/replace it though, so I really hate to "recommend" anything like that, especially without seeing the part in question.
4. The holes on my Fidanza are countersunk on one side only, so flipping it would not work.
^noted.
Keep in mind, that i'm putting this with an OEM clutch, on a stock engine. All the chatter problems i've read about have been the grabby kevlar racing clutches. I don't think it will be much of a problem hitting it with sandpaper. The disk isn't warped.
I think i'm going to lightly sand it with fine sandpaper to get all the transfer off, and if I see any of the heat spots(I kind of know what they look like on other applications.), i'll look at my options.
I'm buying $500 - $600 worth of tires on the Element in the next day or so as well...my tax return is slipping away, it's supposed to go in the 3rd car fund.
Sounds like a good plan to me - hit it with some sand paper or steel wool and see what it looks like. If you're not comfortable with it after that, I would contact Jake (the guy you bought it from) and see if he will work with you. I will speak up for you too, should you go that route. Obviously I have absolutely no say in that matter, but it's always worth a shot.
As much as I hate saying it about used wear items like that (rotors, brake pads, etc), I think you'll be fine with a quick deglazing/transfer layer removal.
Yep, with anything wearable it's always a gamble for used parts. You have to be a true cheap bastard to take the risk.
I'm currently driving on TrickyRix's year old rotors and hawk HP+ pads, haha. The price was right and they work great!
Took some 600 grit sandpaper and steel wool to the flywheel tonight. <sigh> looks like hotspots, but very small?? hotspots.
I dunno...should I sand some more, should I care, or just buy a new ring...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...i/P1020383.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...i/P1020384.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...i/P1020386.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...i/P1020390.jpg
FWIW, the disk is mirror smooth and doesn't appear to be warped (from the naked eye)
Edit: not really asking for what I should do, more asking if this is excessive or extreme heat spotting. If it could be deemed excessive then I know what to do. If it's not that extreme then i'll hit it with some 400 grit on a sanding block and call it a day.
aluminum flywheel is in, mated to a 1.6 value clutch. Wow, was a tough job, for a newbie wrench turner.
Took the car for a quick spin, impressions on the 7.3lb flywheel:
Revs much smoother and effortlessly, but not as fast as I thought it would. Engine tone surprisingly seems a LOT different, less effort zipping through the gears. Had zero trouble starting out in 1st, overrevving, or stalling whatsoever, didn't even notice that much of a difference at all. I even let my buddy drive it and he hasn't driven a stick in years, no problem. Didn't hear any decell buzz, maybe since the top was down, don't know. Engine idled fine. But dyno was happy, little more grunt in lower gears, didn't blow my socks off though.
Seems all the fears of ultra-light flywheels are unfounded, and I do agree with alot of people when they say, it should have come from the factory like this. Feels more like a classic roadster should.