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A quick question...I use Pennzoil 10-30w oil and it seems to be just fine. I have started to get some engine tick which means i need to change the oil. On the pointy board, alot of those folks use like a 5-30W. I'm wondering if i should change what I use. This is not a synthetic vs standard motor oil thread! :) I'm just wondering what some of ya'll use....
royal purple 20/50 in the summer10/40 in the winter
20/50? Man sounds like i've been using the wrong stuff! DAMN
Rotella Synthetic 5W40 T6 for race cars / track cars. 3 track days per change.Quote:
Originally Posted by titanescape
Rotella Synthetic Blend 10w30 T5 for daily drivers 7500 miles.
Mr BRG sent a bunch on oil analysis and whored up the oil forums to get that info
Do a motor flush and change to the Rotella, can pick up a gal at walmart for $16-20 pending on if you go T5 or T6.
also pick up a WIX - Oil Filter Part # 51356, it's not listed for a miata if you have oreilly look it up so write down then number.
why are you wasting your money of royal purple?Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataMike
I'm running the Rotella T6 5W40 in my daily (which sees about 1 track weekend a year).
For lifter tick, I found the best solution is a '99 head... ::Banana::
You can find it if you look up the Mazda Millenia with the 2.3SC engine. Same threads and diameter, but it's a bit deeper (higher capacity, more cleaning capability). I'm going to switch to these once I run out of my stack of Purolator Golds...Quote:
Oil Filter Part # 51356, it's not listed for a miata if you have oreilly look it up so write down then number.
Royal purple is the only oil that my car likes. I use a heavier oil because thinner oil will seap past my rings at startup until my motor warms up enough for my pistons to expand
I like the lifter tick. It's a good reminder that I need to change the oil in the Miata & Element.
*Really I hate it as well, but I learned to deal with it.
Oh, to contribute, I use Mobile 1, 10w30 (I think) and WIX filter. I keep saying i'm going to autocross, and do a track day but haven't jumped back in yet, just a daily for now.
Do a motor flush and change to the Rotella, can pick up a gal at walmart for $16-20 pending on if you go T5 or T6.
Motor flush? Help me out here...
I didn't flush anything when I switched... I just switched.
That oil kind of sucks though when compared to Rotella T6. Are you sure its the rings and not the turbo oil seals? Tell me about your .032" oil feed reducer.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataMike
You guys are going to really laugh at me. As tehjeffman said, I tested a few oils and Rotella is the king. I do 3-track days only due to fuel contamination which effectively reduces it to a 5w30. So I drain that oil, strain it with a screen, and pour it into my daily and run 5000 miles on it.
At this point you're thinking I'm crazy...but I submitted a sample of the twice-used oil from the daily to Blackstone and after 5000 miles as "Rotella 5w30" and "the oil looks good but the high fuel contamination has sheared the oil, which leads us to believe you used 5w40." They even said "go 7500 miles next time!" lol I was pretty shocked.
If I had a brand-new motor for this car I'd be hard pressed to not do this again.
I've checked out the turbo seals (ball bearing turbo with maybe 50k), replaced all the oil lines to and from the turbo, can't find a leak anywhere. But the oil just disappears, the head has been rebuilt, oil catch cans are empty...I'm at a loss
I can get rotella for free most of the time through a friend but rp just last longer in my car
did a flush at some point and the lifter noise got quiter. just do it once and see, it's on $5Quote:
Originally Posted by titanescape
Another user of the Rotella T6 5w40. It helped with both hot and cold lifter tick. After the fourth autocross run in 100+ heat I was getting some tick back. By the time I got home it was gone. Probably due for a change, it's been a while.
Try a .032" oil feed restrictor, I bet the problem goes away. My turbo did this a few times before I put the restrictor in it. The seals will leak with too much pressure, then seal as they warm-up and start spinning. Been there, done that.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataMike
I've been running 10-W40 (Mobil 1) in mine but I used the Rotella T Syn a lot in my motorcycles so might switch back over to that for the Miata :)
MrBRG are you running any kind of Forced Induction or is your motor NA?
Ah... on your NA?Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_man
Several years ago when I was running Mobil 1, I ran it for a little while with a quart of Mobil 1 ATF to flush things out. Seemed to work for a little while but I never got rid of that stupid lifter tick... grrrr.
You had lifter noise on your solid lifter head?Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_man
My track car has a turbo and the street car is stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinbanditrider
Several years ago I decided to simplify some small parts of my life. Since then, I have used Syn 1, 0w40, in everything. It goes in my stock '03 Miata, the Jeep Liberty, and the Ford V10 powered motorhome. The Liberty has a little over 80,000 miles, 70,000+ on the Miata, and a bit over 30,000 on "The Coupe." The John Deere lawn tractor seems fine with it too, but it has far fewer miles.
Since I usually change it at around 3,000 miles (less in the lawn tractor) I doubt that it really matters much what I use.
Jim
So mr brg what is it about the Rotella Synthetic that makes it more better than other offerings?
Rotella is the Brawndo of motor oils...
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8966/brawndo.jpg
All this talk about fancy-schmancy multi-vis oils is just marketing mumbo jumbo. Single vis worked for decades in Grandpa's tractor and shrimp boat.
I use the O'Reilley's house brand 30-wt in everything. Its super-cheap in the 55 gal drum. Once a year, I just line up everything I own with an engine and drain them all, then pump 'em full with a hand pump.
The used stuff comes in handy to edge my yard so I never need to weed eat, and no wasting time trying to recycle that nasty crap.
The zinc, the phos, the resistance to fuel shear, the reality that is has similar composition to the $50/g AMSoil, and the very light engine wear I've seen while using this oil. There are other good oils like M1 0w30 and the exotics like Amsoil and Redline, but they are at least double the price and don't handle fuel contamination as well from other UOA's.
Update.......
Did the oil change this past weekend, went with the "WIX" filter and Rotella T5. It was $16 a gal at walmart. With all this heat I wanted to go with the T6 but couldn't find it at Oreilly's or Wallyworld. Where do ya'll find it? I still have that tick(it's normal) but the engine seems to be running smoother. Hell that's probably just my selective hearing!
Wal-Mart always has the T6 here. If your's didn't I'd guess they were temporaily out and awaiting a delivery.
Second what jeepin said - I saw it at the Saginaw Walmart last night. The T6 was ~$21 IIRC.
I wouldn't buy the T6 for a naturally aspirated car, and I'd still go 7500 miles on the white bottle.
OK, I'm drinking the T5 Rotella kool-aid as of today.....it better be good, or someone will have to die. :D
lol ... i'll have to try the T5. i've been using castrol syntec or edge since i got the car 2yrs ago.
Link TCB!!!
hm I have had oil consumption issues as well and I thought it was a lower end issue but I checked the compression yesterday and it was pretty much 180psi across the board. I also had the turbo off and checked not many miles ago and it was fine as well so I will try switching from Mobile 1 to Rotella and installing the oil feed restrictor. mr BRG where did you get yours at?Quote:
Originally Posted by mr brg
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=BCS is one place (where I indirectly got mine, for what it's worth).
I'm actually surprised companies sell/recommend turbos without restrictors - it's been "common knowledge" for a almost a decade now. I guess technically since not every car needs them, but I can't tell you which ones don't. (Even most journal bearing turbos should have a .060" restrictor inline)
Thanks Rob I'll give them a shot. Mine started out as an FMIII so who knows what they were doing. That said I have had this set up for a long time and it didn't start using oil until recently and all of a sudden which made me believe it was the motor. I guess it could still be the turbo oil seal but I haven't gotten that far yet.
BTW I'm going to stop off on the way home and get me some Rotella!
Yeah, I was skeptical until I had a conversation with a Garrett engineer on a forum who said they were absolutely required.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob®
The first turbo bits I put on my car back in 2003 was an FMII kit. Before I even put it on I got a restrictor for it since it was already ingrained in my head at that point. But that was back when they were still "debatable."Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyin96M
And I fully believe that your car is/was fine without that restrictor - that's the very reason it was such a hot topic so long ago. Most people put them in and their issues would go away, whereas a select few would never have the issues without them. The problem was so bad with freer-flowing exhausts that at first people were claiming you needed a fair amount of backpressure in the downpipe to prevent it...then it was discovered/proven that you needed an appropriately sized restrictor in the feed line., whether you had seal issues or not.
I am also a rotella user. I put it in the car and in the bike. Love it.:D
Rotella all the way for me now. Since I went to that and the new filter, she's running great and sounds smooth as silk! I know it didn't fix that damn tapping but I have not heard it at all even after running her hard!
rotella makes bad ass oil. i've used it in diesels for many years. for my miata though, i run 5w20 royal purple and a royal purple filter. and i never i have any issues with lifter tick. just converted the new project miata (aka bitch car) from the casterol gtx 10w30 the previous owner was so fond of. (btw never use that crap. bitch car's valve train was/is covered in gunk) before i did the oil change i ran half a can of sea foam in the oil, and fed a full can down a vaccume line. poured the other half can in the fuel. drove the piss out of it blowing white smoke every where for about 20 minutes. drain the hot oil over night. and toped off with rp 5w20 and a new rp oil filter.
side note: holy crap seafoam is magic in a can. my car ran like total ass before. would not idle, and just ran rough as hell. after the seafoam treatment it idles fine and runs much smoother. finally some snake oil that actually works.