This thing handles like a Cadillac!

So slowchildmiata was nice enough to drive my butt down to BFE East TX yesterday after work to pick up a 97 Miata. On the way we saw some very interesting things like a building that house both a bowling alley and gun shop/range together. I was just waiting to see the local skating rink/titty bar combination...ken o would love it.

The car has 158K miles and in overall decent shape. It needs the normal TLC but runs fine, didn't break down/overheat on the way back or anything. However...it handles like a river barge. Any higher speed sweepers make it feel very floaty like the steering wheel is not connected to the front wheels. You can yank the steering wheel back and forth a good amount before it responds.

What are the usual suspects? We are pretty sure the shocks are blown, probably needs new bushings, tie rod ends. Any thing else that is obvious on old NA's to replace when the steering is loose?

I'd bet is has 158,000 miles on all the original worn out suspension.

Throw some money at it and it will get better! ;-)

Replacing the lower front ball joints should be on your list, too.

Yes I realize everything is probably shot to hell. My 93LE had 178K when I bought it and didn't feel like this. I suspect the Bilstein shocks may have been a bit sturdier than the standard ones.

Thanks Jerret, will check out the ball joints.

Suspension/bushings (maybe springs) are worn out and/or crunchy. Start with the suspension bits and you'll be good to go.

What's your goal for the car? Track toy?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sammm

What's your goal for the car? Track toy?

---

He's looking for something that will beat this mean Asian kid in a GT-R at autocrosses.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sammm

Suspension/bushings (maybe springs) are worn out and/or crunchy. Start with the suspension bits and you'll be good to go.

What's your goal for the car? Track toy?

---

Right now probably just a daily beater to keep miles off the GT-R and really I missed having a convertible. Eventually might do some track days but it's so freaking slowwwww. But it's also so freaking cheap to track, I like being cheap but I hate being slow. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jrj512

He's looking for something that will beat this mean Asian kid in a GT-R at autocrosses.

---

Pshh, anything can beat a GT-R at an autocross. It's pretty fun on a road course though.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

Right now probably just a daily beater to keep miles off the GT-R and really I missed having a convertible. Eventually might do some track days but it's so freaking slowwwww. But it's also so freaking cheap to track, I like being cheap but I hate being slow. ;)

---

You should ask yourself "How fast do you want to spend?" :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Flyin96M

You should ask yourself "How fast do you want to spend?" :D

---

The obvious answer would be....as little as possible which is why I'm in this predicament to begin with LOL.

What's the best retailers to get TCB parts these days?

Inner and outter tie-rods first. I take those parts very seriously.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

I like being cheap but I hate being slow. ;)

---

• Fast
• Reliable
• Cheap

Pick 2. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sammm

• Fast
• Reliable
• Cheap

Pick 2. ;)

---

I'll go with cheap and reliable. Looks like shocks and tie rod ends are the first culprits I'll address.

Where can I find some cheap shocks? Anyone have stock shocks laying around they want to sell?

Stay away from major engine mods and it will remain reliable. Throw on a header, exhaust, intake, and maybe a lightweight underdrive pulley.

Add a good suspension and some wheels/tires.

With that, you will have a car that is reliable, relatively cheap, and fun to drive on the track or an autocross. The fun/value factor of an STS/STR NA/NB is hard to beat.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

I'll go with cheap and reliable. Looks like shocks and tie rod ends are the first culprits I'll address.

Where can I find some cheap shocks? Anyone have stock shocks laying around they want to sell?

---

Like mr brg said, replace the inner tie rods as well. Trey's had some crazy stuff happen on track with old inner tie rods.

Yeah no plans to do anything crazy doubt I'll even do an intake or exhaust. Probably just replace all the tired worn parts and get it up to spec maintenance wise maybe a wider set of wheels/tires and a rollbar and call it a day.

Thanks for the reccomendations. Now I just need to know where to buy parts, it's been a few years since I've owned a miata.

OBX coilover kit off Ebay, used Bilsteins, NB tophats, and Honda bumpstops make great TCB suspension.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by apex2apex

OBX coilover kit off Ebay, used Bilsteins, NB tophats, and Honda bumpstops make great TCB suspension.

---

How does the OBX coilover ride? I always thought OBX=cheap parts that aren't very good. Where can I find used Bilsteins?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jrj512

Stay away from major engine mods and it will remain reliable.

---

Really? Wait.... Yeah :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

How does the OBX coilover ride? I always thought OBX=cheap parts that aren't very good. Where can I find used Bilsteins?

---

Told you he would know what to get cheap.

OBX coilover are just sleeves and basic springs. The shock will determine the ride.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

How does the OBX coilover ride? I always thought OBX=cheap parts that aren't very good. Where can I find used Bilsteins?

---

It rode very good with OTS NA Bilsteins

Get the kit for 2000-2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Galant, spring rates are 450/275. 2 out of the 4 sleeves has an I.D of 2", which sit perfectly on the Bilstein's c-clips. Then just cut the other two sleeves and have them sit on collar/perch for the rear.

Been using that setup for most than 2 years now.

Just scout different forums for used Bilsteins. I would avoid NB Bilsteins, they have less damping and their body length is longer which limits travel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

Thanks for the reccomendations. Now I just need to know where to buy parts, it's been a few years since I've owned a miata.

---

Rosenthal or Mazdaspeed for life and death suspension parts. Mazdaspeed is almost always cheaper than anywhere else for all parts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mr brg

Rosenthal or Mazdaspeed for life and death suspension parts. Mazdaspeed is almost always cheaper than anywhere else for all parts.

---

I think my account with Mazdaspeed is long expired. How many races do you have to do a year to qualify 6?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

I think my account with Mazdaspeed is long expired. How many races do you have to do a year to qualify 6?

---

Two per year.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by apex2apex

It rode very good with OTS NA Bilsteins

Get the kit for 2000-2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Galant, spring rates are 450/275. 2 out of the 4 sleeves has an I.D of 2", which sit perfectly on the Bilstein's c-clips. Then just cut the other two sleeves and have them sit on collar/perch for the rear.

Been using that setup for most than 2 years now.

Just scout different forums for used Bilsteins. I would avoid NB Bilsteins, they have less damping and their body length is longer which limits travel.

---

Another TCB alternative to used, non-adjustable Bilsteins is the KYB AGX. I has a set on my NB and liked the quite a bit. Better than both the OEM NB Bilsteins and the used Koni Yellows that I had, imho.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

I think my account with Mazdaspeed is long expired. How many races do you have to do a year to qualify 6?

---

I think they'll let you re-join if you tell them you're 'building' a car.

There are two events this weekend that you can drive in.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sammm

I think they'll let you re-join if you tell them you're 'building' a car.

---

Ah ok cool thanks, I forgot about that. I did 1 autox in a Miata this year already too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jrj512

There are two events this weekend that you can drive in.

---

I don't think it will make it through an event with the current suspension without killing someone.

Can you put NB suspension on a NA without it riding like a 4X4 because of the stiffer spring rates? Does it bolt straight in or do you have to mix/match?

Spark plug wires. Always start with plug wires.

1. Brakes, plugs & wires, oil change, valve cover gasket, PVC, any fluid leaks, check the timing belt (mine had a date of manufacture on it).
2. Springs, shocks (GC & Konis to Xidas, how much $$$), big red front sway bar, tires & wheels
3. Roll bar, seats & harness
4. I/H/E

There is an RB front sway bar FS on the forum cheap, brand new.

Don't think it works with the 1.8 cars directly according to their website also swaybar is low on the priority list right now.

I thought it was an NA/NB thing. I understand the low priority thing, though I think the Sway bar is a pretty big difference maker on those, along with some shocks/springs and alignment.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OZMDD

I thought it was an NA/NB thing. I understand the low priority thing, though I think the Sway bar is a pretty big difference maker on those, along with some shocks/springs and alignment.

---

I had the bar on my 93LE and liked it but don't have plans to race car, just daily beater so I just need it to ride decent around town.

Wanted to try the NB setup but I've read it raises the ride height and this thing is already a 4X4. Anyone know if that is true?

Go to your local Mazda Service before you screw it up more. That's what I would do, but that's just me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nwick

Go to your local Mazda Service before you screw it up more. That's what I would do, but that's just me.

---

Why do that unless you don't know how to turn a wrench.

Lol! First post douchery ftw!