I can removed the standard transmission and engine but who in the DFW can rebuild it for me and whats a fair price to pay for each.
Looking to just stock rebuild... but a good rebuild.
Thanks !!
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I can removed the standard transmission and engine but who in the DFW can rebuild it for me and whats a fair price to pay for each.
Looking to just stock rebuild... but a good rebuild.
Thanks !!
Day Custom Engine, prob going to cost $1200 for a stock rebuild.
Don't rebuild the tranny, they are cheap used and most don't break ever.
Day Custom changed their name to "Republic Custom Engine" after John Day sold it. As for the transmission, the used ones are indeed pretty cheap, but so are rebuilds. If you want yours rebuilt to better than new, search on Spec Miata transmission rebuilders. It will likely be cheaper than a transmission shop will charge it it will be done by someone that knows the Miata transmission very well. IIRC, the cost is in the $500-600 range depending on how many parts needs to be replaced.Quote:
Originally Posted by OZMDD
For transmission rebuilds send it to Juliann Pokorny at Gilfus Racing Enterprises in Austin.
I bought a used 01 transmission with 40k miles (my 92 5 speed was stuck in reverse) for $200. It has worked flawlessly for 25000 miles now. I got it at a junk yard and there were lots of others around so i just got the lowest milage one I could find.
Is Ed Gilfus still at it? Damn, love that guy.
Yep, Ed is still building cars and doing track support. Julianne came back to Texas this year and joined him.
used to visit his shop when he was 'applied racing technology' back in the day..
If you do get your engine rebuilt by RCE, remind them that the oil pump gasket is supposed to be silicone, not paper. Save yourself the hassle I had when I bought my car from them. Also remind them that there's supposed to be fluid in your transmission.
Thanks!!!
No it's NOT, OEM are paper!
Btw... RCE doesnt do transmissions.
Listen to this guy and not the one above his post. Rogue does miatas for a living!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue
I think there is some confusion.
We removed the oil pump on effse7en's motor because it was leaking and there was no gasket, no silicone, nothing. Now I don't know who actually put the motor together. I just know it was a mess when we got it. We have to remove the motor, disassemble it and reassemble it. We found numerous issues like loose bolts, missing gaskets, etc... The transmission had no oil it it either.
The oil pump uses silicone to attach it to the block. No additional gasket. It does use a paper gasket for the oil pick-up tube that attaches to the oil pump without silicone. Then the oil pan attaches to the bottom edge of the oil pump with a rubber crescent shaped oil pan seal and lots of silicone.
The 5-speed transmissions use only a paper gasket on the front snout housing. The 6-speed transmissions use silicone instead.
Hope this clears it up.
Yep, I think Mazda would disagree with TDRQuote:
Originally Posted by black roadster
http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...52d113%29.html
http://www.autolinkmx5.com/ekmps/sho...7[ekm].jpg
I'd trust silicone more. I'd hate to have it leak. I even looked on the parts schematics on M.net before responding and didn't see the gasket. Dammit! ::Boo::Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue
M.net is hardly the authority on Miatas. At LEAST go to Mazdaspeed (Mazda Motorsports) or to the FSM for info straight from the source. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by black roadster
I made a post about this over at mt.net. Should clear things up nicely for you guys. See Post #19 at this link (I'd repost here, but I can't upload pictures for some reason):
http://www.miataturbo.net/general-mi...uestion-26178/
Bottom line is that both methods (gasket or O-ring + RTV) were used by Mazda and you need to physically inspect your oil pump to determine the correct method of installation. The pictures make it clear.
If your pump takes a gasket, the Mazda OEM yellow silicone gasket is MUCH better quality than the cardboard gasket in typical engine seal sets. In fact, I can say that about all of the engine seals -- use Mazda OEM if at all possible. It's no fun replacing a rear main 2 days before a track event.
I trust gaskets more than silicone. Silicone is useful if you have a multipart gasket, or an assembly that isn't machined perfectly. I hate using it though as it is just foreign material that can get into your bearings especially on something like an oil pump.
Thanks for all the input... however i have one more question. Once i remove my standard transmission, should i take my standard transmission to the above mentioned shop or just reinstall and keep rolling. I don't have any real problems with the transmission except i have developed a frequent sounds...not always but frequent. its almost like a through out bearing but .... not really. It happens when in low gear or reverse,,clutch depressed.. That's the reason for my question concerning standard rebuild because if i have to replace the clutch.... well while i am removing the darn thing might as well have it rebuilt or at least check out but your saying no real problems... just keep rolling.
thanks again for everyone's help..and Merry Christmas
your most needy new member,
mims
On the transmission, I would replace the fluid, replace the Miata shift boots (they tend to go bad by this time and are inexpensive). Bad boots allow water and other foreign material in the tranny. I'd also replace the throwout bearing, which could easily be the source of your tranny noises. When replacing the fluid check it for metal. If there is a lot of metal consider a rebuild. If there is next to none (which I would expect), I'd use it. Miata trannies seem to be very durable IMO. Honestly if you know how to shift properly, most manual transmissions are very durable.
I have a 1.6 auto engine I will give you for a really low price. I will help you pull it as well. It's not as powerful as the 1.6 manual engine since it has a lower compression ratio and different cams. It will run just fine though. I'm swapping over to a 1.8L that I have and manual transmission, etc.
Replace the pilot bearing as well.