My car gave me problems on the way home today. I'm thinking heat related. My radiator is 6 1/2 years old. Time to replace it?
Where is the best place to buy. Rock Auto is the TCB place, but is that the best I could do?
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My car gave me problems on the way home today. I'm thinking heat related. My radiator is 6 1/2 years old. Time to replace it?
Where is the best place to buy. Rock Auto is the TCB place, but is that the best I could do?
Check AmazonQuote:
Originally Posted by cone-cerned
Amazon TYC radiator is less than 100$ and the it's made for the automatics which gives 20 percent more capacity and you just keep. Those two transmission ports capped.
I need to replace mine and I'll Be using amazon. They always will have the best prices for the same part if available.
Many have said they actually recieve theirs in a Koyo box so it's just a relabeled Koyo, but some say production moved to Thailand and that's not longer the case. 80$ for the NA TYC 1140 Mazda Miata 1-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYPNC8..._phS3xbQ2X128N
Mazdaspeed has em. ;-)
Can you get a more better than OEM radiator if you are in CSP??
I thought I read that you can run aftermarket radiators in ST and above now. I believe the capacity/weight cannot be less than oem, but bigger is ok.
You are correct, OZMDD, but I'm going to stay with OEM for now. I ordered the Spectra Premium from Amazon.
Tell us the story - what happened??Quote:
Originally Posted by cone-cerned
The last two time, on my way home from LSP, the car began to hesitate as if it were starving for fuel. First time it started about the time I got to I35W. At first it was just a little stumble then it kept getting worse. Finally it was like the car died for one or two second. It just did not want to accelerate. If I pushed the clutch in, the engine revved easily. I made it to the Love's north of Denton, just. I though it might be the RPM switch causing the problem. At the Love's, I found a shade tree (that's the kind of mechanic I am) and got tools out, unhooked the RPM switch, then put all the tools up. All this took about 10 minutes. I got on the road and the car ran great. I thought it really was the switch. But, I barely made it to Valley View. Same problem. I stopped at the DQ, again in the shade. After a treat and a 30 minute wait, the car ran fine, but without AC, for the rest of the trip home.
Last Saturday, I only got the 360 and 183 before the hesitation started again. Same symptoms as last time. Stumbling just kept getting worse. This time I made it to the Valero at 114 and I35W, just. Stopped in the shade (I'm still me) and let the car cool for about 30 minutes. I got on the road, without AC, and the car ran fine all the way to Denton. Just north of Denton, I turned the AC back on. The car never missed a beat until I got just east of Gainesville. Then it stumbled a couple of times before I got home.
Since the stops to let the car cool off has seemed to solve the problem, at least for 50 miles or so, I think the car is have heat problems. The usually unreliable Miata temperature gauge has not moved off of 11 o'clock during any of these episodes.
What year engine do you have? I had an old motorcycle that acted like that and it was the valve lash that had gotten too tight. Motor would get hot and valve(s) wouldn't seat well and it would start stumbling. Not saying it isn't overheating, just something else to think about if you have a motor with solid lifters.
I do have a '99 head with solid, lifters? After installing the new radiator, I'll see if the problem persists. If it does, at least I have a new radiator.
More information, I was pulling my tire trailer each time this happened.
It doesn't sound like a cooling problem to me. I would guess coil or fuel pump connections, depending upon what your tach does at the time.
I'll start by reminding everyone that I have a pretty solid case of CRS. I don't remember looking at the tach during all of this. And, I forgot (you see, CRS) to turn my MaxQData off, so I have all this recorded. I have the whole 85 mile trip. Unfortunately, I did turn off the camera that looks over my shoulder. We could have seen the tach on that video.
Fuel filter?
Definitely in SP
I've had problems a couple of times with the cam position sensor on my 99 that sound pretty similar to what you're experiencing. When the engine would get really warm (usually on really not days) the car would start stumbling sort like what you're describing. but mine would totally die after stumbling for just a little bit. let it cool down for 30 min or so and it would fire right back up and run great until it got hot again. when this happened I could pull the sensor out and cool it off faster and then be good to go. finally bought a new one but I keep a spare in the console just in case.
I'm pretty sure this is a common problem with the cam position sensors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keifersmith
I had the same symptoms with my '03 and a new cam position sensor fixed it
+1 I was thinking the same thing, similar to issues I had with the CAS getting hot in my 94. In my case the tach needle would drop to zero a few secs before the engine died. 30 minutes in the shade would fire up and drive home. If I remember I had the weird engine stumble a few times on really hot days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keifersmith
I never verified if it was something other than the CAS or if the spare I got did the same thing. I stopped daily driving or autocrossing the car around this time so the problem went away for me :)
Beat me to it. If there is crud in there the stops could have given it a chance to settle. That's a cheap test anyway. If the temp guage was within range i wouldn't suspect cooling system.Quote:
Originally Posted by cwisenheimer
On the way home from the TMS event Sunday, my car ran just as it should, no engine problems at all. The temperature was 70°F when I went through Denton.
However, one of the PPF bolts came loose. My car is lowered enough that the bold didn't come completely out. It did rub along I35 for a few yards. I retrieved the bolt and nut and made it home OK. When I replaced the bolt today, I could not get it up to torque spec because the head is worn down.
Also, I replaced the fuel filter about two months ago.
I now have the parts cannon load ::2Guns:: with a radiator, CAS and new bolt for the PPF. My hand is on the lanyard, just waiting for a bit of Miata time.
A new CAS? Those are pricey!
PS
Check with Rogue.
CAS is not new, I got a used one from Rogue. Actually the bold is only new to me, I got it from Rogue also. Only the radiator is new, from Amazon.