Reply With QuoteIf it starts then not the Ignitor.
Are the plugs wet with fuel?
pull them and spray with carb cleaner, dry, reinstall.
Fuel foul can cause a second issue.
Pull the fuel pump and see if the fuel is cloudy.
Originally Posted by black roadster
Have you checked your CAS timing yet?
Your symptom: "...have to keep the RPMs up so it won't stall" is indicative of too-advanced ignition timing.
A clogged cat will have best performance at idle, with decreasing performance as revs (thus airflow) increase. Which is dissimilar to what you are describing.
If the timing is indeed set correctly, take Rogue's advice. He is good at being right.
1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!
If it starts then not the Ignitor.
Are the plugs wet with fuel?
pull them and spray with carb cleaner, dry, reinstall.
Fuel foul can cause a second issue.
Pull the fuel pump and see if the fuel is cloudy.
I swapped the CAS, with a used one and its doing the same thing
Ive rotated the cas to different positions it seems best near the middle, it doesn't start every time but if you crank it long enough it will turn on the die out. the car doesent have the lower timing cover on it so i cant put in in exact time.
I haven't pulled the plugs yet, i pulled every wire while the car is cranking and i do see a spark, i pulled the fuel line and fuel spits when the car is cranking.
Tomorrow im going to put a new coil on it and see if that does anything. it just seemed weird that when we had it running the manifold got cherry red hot in less then a minute.
The cat does make noise when the car revs up, but shouldn't affect it starting and at idle i wouldn't think.
Anyone mind stopping by in Allen @ Bethany & Greenville to see what the car is doing ?
Put a brand new ignition coil in today, nothing changed, it will still start sometimes and just die out can a bad ecu cause this ? It died in the middle of him driving it, does this indicate anything? At this point in leaning toward a bad ecu is this possible ?
If the exhaust manifold is getting really hot it might be lean. Clogged fuel filter, injectors, or fuel pump going bad? I don't know how the ECU interprets everything but a bad air flow sensor could be showing low air flow so it's cutting fuel? I think if an oxygen sensor is malfunctioning it'll generally throw a code. Just some thoughts...
its pumping fuel, ive pulled the fuel line and cranked it, it was spitting fuel out,
would a bad MAF have anything to do with the car starting ?
The red hot manifold is what is making me thing lean. Can't think of much else that'd cause that. Your pump and filter may be fine, which would still show fuel flow if you pulled a line to check but if the injectors aren't firing sufficiently you may not be getting enough fuel into the cylinders. A clogged filter might let fuel through, but not enough flow or pressure to properly run the car. Same might be said of a fuel pump. I may be way off base, and probably I am, just throwing some ideas out there. As a test, you could pull the intake tube off of the throttle body and spray some throttle body cleaner as you're trying to start it - if it runs better, it's probably a fuel issue.
Also, you might check for a big vacuum leak. It'll run its worst at idle and get progressively better as the throttle is opened.
Out of curiosity, have you checked to see if it is throwing any codes? OBDI often will not show a CEL even though it threw codes. Only way to know is to check it.
Instructions here.
Just another random thought. Is the car smoking any and have you checked to see if oil is in the coolant or not? Could just be blown. Check the compression.
'94 Miata "M Edition" - sold
'99 Miata w/td05
glowing red manifold seems to me to be collapsed cat. are you getting any exhaust out the tailpipe?
Am getting exhaust out the back,
Perhaps the fuel pressure is just low, isn't is suppose to supply fuel when the key is in the on position ?
i only got fuel to come out of the line when it was cranking over, im not sure if there is enough fuel pressure cause when i pulled the line off it just drizzled out it wasn't like a burst of fuel like any other car that ive taken the fuel line off of
bought a fuel pump from orileys and tried to install it in my friends 90 NA
i couldn't get it to fit snug is there a trick to it ? all they gave me was a o-ring and a hose and some clamps ...
anyone got a used fuel assembly for sale ?
We sell a kit for fuel pumps. Includes The 1.6 pump is different than the 1.8 pump. Make sure you have the correct one.
Fuel pump kit for fuel pump upgrades includes rubber cover to reduce sound level, extend hose with new clamps, rubber dampener and new strainer.
It was the fuel pump i guess i wasn't getting enough flow as the old one tuned on, i guess not enough
Stopped by TDR and picked one up after seeing Gary break the first one lol
Anyways the car runs now just the revs hold out too long and take awhile to come back down
is this timing related ?
Quickest and easiest to check: Check the damper on the throttle body (the diaphragm looking thing). And the throttle body plate/butterfly itself - it could be crapped up enough to make it stick.
Are you still using the CAS I gave you (just for curiosity's sake)?
Last edited by Rob®; 10-28-2011 at 02:58 PM.
It's a 94, but my car has done this twice, once when I dicked with the idle like an idiot without putting the ECU in diagnostic mode, and 2nd when my crank bolt let go and timing belt jumped a tooth. Not saying either of these is your case, but in my limited experience the ECU did this when it sensed something had changed that it didn't know about.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Interesting, i guess ill look more into it.
Yeah, I was assuming you jumped the pins to adjust idle...that could very well be it.
No im a dumb-ass , ill try that when i see his car again
i still dont see what it would help the car idles fine, it just takes awhile to get the RPMS down.
Yep that's what my car did. Idled fine but the rps wouldn't drop. Drove it to work a couple days the needle started bouncing/lunging at stoplights.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
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