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Thread: Rounded Bolt!

  1. #1

    Default Rounded Bolt!

    Any suggestion in getting a rounded bolt off? I was fixing the slave cylinder. The bottom bolt won't come off. The space in there is so limited that I had to use the wrench (both the close and open wrench). Even with tons of Liquid Wrench, I stripped and rounded the bolt. Now I am stuck!

    Any suggestion, and expesically physical help, are welcomed and compensated!

    By the way, please let the S2K people know that I'll be no show b/o that.

    Thanks,
    Gab
    Gabriel

  2. #2

    Default

    Gab,
    Can you get your hands on a small channel loc plier. It may fit. That space is so limited.
    Alan

  3. #3

    Default

    Can you get a Dremel in there and grind it off?

  4. #4

    Default

    Can you get your hands on a small channel loc plier. It may fit. That space is so limited.
    Alan
    I will run down to the store to try to get one in the morning.

    Can you get a Dremel in there and grind it off?
    I guess I can Dremel it back to more square and try the wrench again. I don't think I can cut if off since it is bolt to the transmission. If I caut off I will leave the stud in the hole and can not put a new bolt on again.
    Gabriel

  5. #5

    Default

    Good Luck.

  6. #6

    Default

    You can't get in there with a rachet and a universal?

    I have some EZ-Outs that will pull the bolt out but they require a rachet to use.
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

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  7. #7

    Default

    You can't get in there with a rachet and a universal?
    Unless it is very low profile. My Craftsman rachet is too big.
    Gabriel

  8. #8
    Shallow and Pedantic Majik's Avatar
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    Default

    I have never tried this, so it might not be a good idea. What about using some kind of epoxy with a cheap wrench on the bolt. You can get a half of a turn or so on the bolt. Then use a big hammer to knock the wrench off from the side. This would probably be a last resort.

  9. #9

    Default

    I have never tried this, so it might not be a good idea. What about using some kind of epoxy with a cheap wrench on the bolt. You can get a half of a turn or so on the bolt. Then use a big hammer to knock the wrench off from the side. This would probably be a last resort.
    It sounds ghetto, but I think this may work. I think this will be my last option! Thanks!
    Gabriel

  10. #10

    Default

    Sears sells a tool called Bolt-Out.

    It worked for me when I had a stripped seat bolt but I was able to use a big breaker bar.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  11. #11

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    I also have a Metrinch tool set but it didn't work on my stripped seat bolt. If you want to swing up to McKinney you can borrow it.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  12. #12

    Default

    Sears sells a tool called Bolt-Out.
    I have thought of this too. The biggest problem is that the space is so thight that I can use anything except the wrench. Anyone knows there is any low profile rachet etc.?
    Gabriel

  13. #13

    Default

    I also have a Metrinch tool set but it didn't work on my stripped seat bolt. If you want to swing up to McKinney you can borrow it.
    You have a PM!
    Gabriel

  14. #14

    Default

    If you can get a dremel or a file up in there I'd try to flatten two opposite sides and try channel locks on it.

  15. #15

    Default

    I am assuming you are talking about the clutch slave cylinder (should be the only slave cyl. on the car). If you are trying to get to the bottom bolt, go with what everyone is saying about vise grips. It is probably worth while to use a GOOD set of vise grips, as I am well aware that everybody has a set, but there is a big difference between the name brand tools and the generics at your local big box store. I have Craftsman brand vise grips that every tech in the shop is jealous of. They were about $8 and will last forever. If you are trying to get to the top bolt, remove the passenger front wheel and use a long extension with an "easy out" style bolt remover through the wheel well (over the top of the front subframe). Most of my tools are locked up in a car dealership until Monday morning, but William mentioned he had a set of bolt removers.
    1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
    1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
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  16. #16

    Default

    William, you are the life safer! The Metrinch is like hot knife through butter! A couple of minutes, the bolt was out! I used the rachet. I noticed that the socket and the rachet were much lower profile than my standard Carftsman 1/2" rachet set. With your Metrinch rachet/socket, it made the tiny space felt like in am the Titanic! Also, the special design of the socket and wrench that bites the middle of the bolt instead of striping the corners helps a lot too!

    I will start shoping of a set, Christmas present for myself?!

    Again, William, many THANKS!

    Gab
    Gabriel

  17. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gabkwong View Post
    William, you are the life safer! The Metrinch is like hot knife through butter! A couple of minutes, the bolt was out! I used the rachet. I noticed that the socket and the rachet were much lower profile than my standard Carftsman 1/2" rachet set. With your Metrinch rachet/socket, it made the tiny space felt like in am the Titanic! Also, the special design of the socket and wrench that bites the middle of the bolt instead of striping the corners helps a lot too!

    I will start shoping of a set, Christmas present for myself?!

    Again, William, many THANKS!

    Gab
    No problem and I'm glad it worked out. I'm also glad to hear they work as advertised.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  18. #18

    Default

    Harbor freight had a knock off of the Metr-inch wrenches for next to nothing. Saw them hanging on the rack at the Irving store this last week.
    They carried the Pitsburg name on them.

    Also, I had a brand new set of Craftsman sockets, back when I was working aircraft. I quickly got the impression that they SUCK! when I stripped the heads off of several nuts and my friend came right past with a set of SK sockets and another friend with Mac sockets and both of them took off the nuts with no problems. Tried a couple of other craftsman sockets that I had, due to getting a great deal on the socket racks and out of three sets, all three sockets did the exact same thing.
    05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica

  19. #19

    Default

    Also, I had a brand new set of Craftsman sockets, back when I was working aircraft. I quickly got the impression that they SUCK!
    +1! I have so many rounded bolts with their open and close end wrenches. Even the sockets leave marks on the bolts. Looks they have small pressure point.

    I guess I run over the Irving to take a look of the knock off.
    Gabriel

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radio-Active View Post
    Craftsman sockets, back when I was working aircraft. I quickly got the impression that they SUCK!
    Quote Originally Posted by gabkwong View Post
    +1!
    I been using Craftsman sockets and open end wrenches since I bought my first set of tools. I've never rounded off a bolt with them.

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