Where to get turbo in dallas / ft worth?

[MiataMike]

That's good to know. I wasn't sure what they could/would do. Sounds like a pain. There's got to be a better solution to emissions legal ECU's for OBDII cars....???

Right now I don't know of any Full Standalone ECU that is OBDII compliant

[TurboDuane]

My FM with the ODB-I Link in my '97 ODB-II car passes every year, but I have to put it on the Dyno, as the Link doesn't talk to their computer.

So no worries.
TD

[trackdog]

Before you decide to go FI, uderstand your '02 car will not be of the same power level as eariler cars thanks to the VVT (variable valve timing) setup. We have an '02 in our stables right now that will have our MP62 SC and intercooler setup along with a lot of other goodies, come see. This car will be our development car to work with this damn power killing VVT. On average the '01-05 cars are down about 16-18 HP to an equivelent '99-00 car at 8 PSI boost. Hopefully with a few tricks we can bring the power back.

You mentioned maintenance higher on a SC car? Supercharged cars about 99% maintenance free, maybe $18 belt once year. Not even close to the constant issues you will see with turbos and the difficult installation. Heat will ALWAYS be an issue with an aftermarket turbo kit and not just Miatas. OBDII emissions with our setups is not an issue at any power level we set up.

By the way, if anyone is interested, I took a M45 off this '02 car with about 100 miles on it for sale. List is $2195 and selling it for the customer for $1800, a steal of a deal. Let me know if interested before I post it to the classified section.

You are more than welcome to give us a visit at the Dog House in Plano to take a ride in our couple of SC cars and see this car that is similar to yours.

Gary
Cell 214-280-6172

[rrk0818]

I was under the impression the VVT cars were actually a couple h.p. stronger...the s.c. your speaking of... roots style or centrifugal? What kind of rwhp are you talking about with a stock 02? lastly what is the cost including installation?

Bob

[johnwag]

Gary
Cell 214-280-6172

I was under the impression the VVT cars were actually a couple h.p. stronger...the s.c. your speaking of... roots style or centrifugal? What kind of rwhp are you talking about with a stock 02? lastly what is the cost including installation?

Bob

Call him. He doesn't get on the forum, but once every blue moon.

[Titus]

The lower tech 99-00 cars are easier to get good power out of. The VVT on the '01+ doesn't play nice with superchargers, and the VVT cars also have higher compression. This causes most to have problems getting as much out of them before knocking sets in. A full ECU capable of VVT and Timing control such as the Hydra should improve the situation, but I have not seen anyone try this yet.

[trackdog]

Hey Bob,

Like Wag says i don't get on the Forum every day. Please come visit us when you have time. We have a '02 right now we are putting the MP62 in with our TDR intercooler and a lot of extra goodies. One of the developments we are working on is the VVT issue.

You mentioned the VVT is suppose to be good for a couple of more horsepower, yes it was in stock form. Under boosted conditions the intake cam has two phases, idle, cruise and above 6000 RPM is one phase and the other phase is under load conditions.

With the same boost on a '99-00 car verses the '01-05 car the power level is about the same until 6000 RPM when the cam changes phase. This is our project and we have a few tricks we are going to test on this customers car.

If you have time, call me and we can show you what we are doing. If you want to email me use my regular email, not the Forum please, [email protected].

Talk soon,

Gary

[CosmosMpower]

Before you decide to go FI, uderstand your '02 car will not be of the same power level as eariler cars thanks to the VVT (variable valve timing) setup. We have an '02 in our stables right now that will have our MP62 SC and intercooler setup along with a lot of other goodies, come see. This car will be our development car to work with this damn power killing VVT. On average the '01-05 cars are down about 16-18 HP to an equivelent '99-00 car at 8 PSI boost. Hopefully with a few tricks we can bring the power back.

You mentioned maintenance higher on a SC car? Supercharged cars about 99% maintenance free, maybe $18 belt once year. Not even close to the constant issues you will see with turbos and the difficult installation. Heat will ALWAYS be an issue with an aftermarket turbo kit and not just Miatas. OBDII emissions with our setups is not an issue at any power level we set up.

By the way, if anyone is interested, I took a M45 off this '02 car with about 100 miles on it for sale. List is $2195 and selling it for the customer for $1800, a steal of a deal. Let me know if interested before I post it to the classified section.

You are more than welcome to give us a visit at the Dog House in Plano to take a ride in our couple of SC cars and see this car that is similar to yours.

Gary
Cell 214-280-6172

Is that $1800 blower everything included? I wouldn't mind having my 1.6 actually be able to get off the line faster than a V6 Accord :)

[Titus]

Is that $1800 blower everything included? I wouldn't mind having my 1.6 actually be able to get off the line faster than a V6 Accord :)

The bracket is different with 1.6 cars, so I don't think it would be an easy fit.

[johnwag]

The bracket is different with 1.6 cars, so I don't think it would be an easy fit.

Gary can source the bracket. I'm sure he would do it if a 1.6 miata owner wanted to buy it.

[rrk0818]

Hey Bob,

Like Wag says i don't get on the Forum every day. Please come visit us when you have time. We have a '02 right now we are putting the MP62 in with our TDR intercooler and a lot of extra goodies. One of the developments we are working on is the VVT issue.

You mentioned the VVT is suppose to be good for a couple of more horsepower, yes it was in stock form. Under boosted conditions the intake cam has two phases, idle, cruise and above 6000 RPM is one phase and the other phase is under load conditions.

With the same boost on a '99-00 car verses the '01-05 car the power level is about the same until 6000 RPM when the cam changes phase. This is our project and we have a few tricks we are going to test on this customers car.

If you have time, call me and we can show you what we are doing. If you want to email me use my regular email, not the Forum please, [email protected].

Talk soon,

Gary

ok will do- I will be that way in the next couple of days- doing some work on my turbo harley....keep it about 168 rwhp @ 8psi....lots of fun ! adding vance and hines electric shifter and a few other tweaks....

[mk2tmr2]

When I first got my Miata my plan was to go turbo, as well. I come from a long line of modified turbo cars. It's what I knew - what I was comfortable with and at the time I thought it had more flexibility.

When I started doing the research I decided to give Gary's suggestion a try and I went with an MP62 supercharger. I couldn't be happier. It's fairly conservatively tuned right now at 10.5 psi and it made 216whp on a 98-degree August day. (Mine is a '99) The powerband is absolutely linear and predictable - a trait that I've come to appreciate.

If anyone is curious to see how this setup drives - shoot me an email ([email protected]). I check the board about as frequently as Gary does :)

[SirHustlerEsq]

Total cost was about $1500 for install and tune + the cost of the Hydra w/ WB02.

Install is plugging the thing in, and running 1 vac hose and possibly 2 wires for IAT. At the standard rate of $150 per hour that's a ton of dyno time. I'm in the wrong business.

[SirHustlerEsq]

supercharger section:
If you aren't mechanically inclined, or don't want to mess with it, go to gary / tdr. There's a handful of people in town with his packages on their cars, and its a real quality statement when 10+ cars with his kits make the 4 hour drive to Tulsa, play on the track for 2 hours of track time, then drive home.

I've driven Gary's silver blown car, and its like driving a v8. Seamless power delivery, ran great, no complaints. If I had a 99 car, I'd have the same set-up...or purchased it if I knew the car were for sale.

turbo section:
I'm building a turbo car because I want to play with the big boys on the track (which you can also do with a 1.8 supercharged car), and also own a subaru. I have a 1.6 car, which limits my blower options significantly, so I went the turbo route.

You've owned turbo cars before, so I won't give you the "don't expect the car to make power off idle," garbage.
The FM kits are good. If you have $1k more to spend, then you can get the same or marginally better build quality with the Bell kit. Both are solid choices, include every nut and bolt, but a few design issues are being address by FM according to forums (grain of salt), none I've seen first hand. I don't know of any with the Bell kit, and have not installed mine yet. If you want to look at the Bell kit, give me a call...you'll be impressed. Bell and FM have two different schools of thought: FM will sell you a replacement hose for $20, Bell will tell you to buy the hose at Napa for $10, but it wouldn't have broken in the first place.

I spent the extra money on the bell kit because I wanted the metal piping, the remarkably superior intercooler, a bunch of heat shielding, superior downpipe, stainless hoses, and whatever...I'm done.

engine management section:
Megasquirt rules. They may have something in the works for vvt. You can run ms as a piggyback to control fuel and spark, but don't expect anyone around here to hook it up for you. Tuning is not rocket surgery.

[MiataMike]

Install is plugging the thing in, and running 1 vac hose and possibly 2 wires for IAT. At the standard rate of $150 per hour that's a ton of dyno time. I'm in the wrong business.

That is not correct there was a lot more involved with installing that ECU than just plugging it in and setting up 2 wires and a vacume hose. and the $1500 might as well be a bit misleading because the ECU wasn't the only thing that was being installed.

[SirHustlerEsq]

That is not correct there was a lot more involved with installing that ECU than just plugging it in and setting up 2 wires and a vacume hose. and the $1500 might as well be a bit misleading because the ECU wasn't the only thing that was being installed.

I thought Hydra was supposed to be plug and play?

[Titus]

I thought Hydra was supposed to be plug and play?

Yeah... and the link is plug and play too... still took me over 8 hours to get in and running. You have to consider the fact that most ECU installs are accompanied by things like injectors, knock sensor, air temperature sensor, etc.

EDIT- Here is a list of the things I had to do to install my LINK. You have to consider the removal of the former fuel and timing controls when you are upgrading compared to a fresh install. Mike would have likely gone through several of these un-install items with his Hydra install as well.

• Remove the AFPR that came with the Jackson Racing Kit.
• Remove the AFM.
• Remove the Jackson Racing Air intake.
• Install the new intake kit from TDR.
• Remove the Jackson Racing electronics that override the AFM signal to the stock ECU.
• Remove the Stock ECU.
• Install the LINK ECU into the stock ECU case and re-installed the car.
• Move 4 wires in the ECU plug from one spot to another.
• Run a new ground from the ECU to the engine.
• Run a WB02 wire from the ECU to the glovebox for future use.
• Run new wires from ECU to fuel rail that will allow convert to Sequential Fuel Injection.
• Run a wire from the ECU to the engine bay that is supposed to allow me to run fans in parallel.
• Install an Air Temperature Sensor in the dummy throttle body.
• Install RC440 injectors.
• Modify Injector harness wires for Sequential Fuel Injection.
• Install the new MAP sensor in place of the AFM.
• Install the knock sensor.
• Hook up laptop to load base map
• Tune

[SirHustlerEsq]

Yeah... and the link is plug and play too... still took me over 8 hours to get in and running. You have to consider the fact that most ECU installs are accompanied by things like injectors, knock sensor, air temperature sensor, etc.

EDIT- Here is a list of the things I had to do to install my LINK. You have to consider the removal of the former fuel and timing controls when you are upgrading compared to a fresh install. Mike would have likely gone through several of these un-install items with his Hydra install as well.

• Remove the AFPR that came with the Jackson Racing Kit.
• Remove the AFM.
• Remove the Jackson Racing Air intake.
• Install the new intake kit from TDR.
• Remove the Jackson Racing electronics that override the AFM signal to the stock ECU.
• Remove the Stock ECU.
• Install the LINK ECU into the stock ECU case and re-installed the car.
• Move 4 wires in the ECU plug from one spot to another.
• Run a new ground from the ECU to the engine.
• Run a WB02 wire from the ECU to the glovebox for future use.
• Run new wires from ECU to fuel rail that will allow convert to Sequential Fuel Injection.
• Run a wire from the ECU to the engine bay that is supposed to allow me to run fans in parallel.
• Install an Air Temperature Sensor in the dummy throttle body.
• Install RC440 injectors.
• Modify Injector harness wires for Sequential Fuel Injection.
• Install the new MAP sensor in place of the AFM.
• Install the knock sensor.
• Hook up laptop to load base map
• Tune

I installed ms pnp today. All I had to do was run a vac hose through the firewall. I kept the air meter today because I can't find a tap for it, but when I do I have to run the GM IAT sensor to the old AFM plug, switch the firmware, then crank and tune. I'm not running sequential though.

[MiataMike]

I thought Hydra was supposed to be plug and play?

Its pretty much like Todd said. I had to have all the old Link equipment removed. Basically full reverse of what he listed as the install. Plus with the Hydra I had to have the intake manifold taken off drilled out and the IAT sensor welded in. And a few other quirky things went in with the install like the way the ignition was setup, I won't even go into that (3 triggers to start the car). It is plug and play; but to a degree. I just didn't have the time or the tools needed to do it myself. (not to mention Steve @ Gotham claims to have over 400 Hydra Installs done and it still took him over 3 weeks.

[trackdog]

OK, come see me if you want Plug-And-Play. I can tune a car with the new Powercard Pro setup in a bout 3 runs down the street. Simple is Good!

Gary