Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: Short Nose Crankshaft Failure

  1. #1

    Default Short Nose Crankshaft Failure

    My car didn’t want to run today, it kept dying unless I had my foot on the gas like I had a vacuum leak or something. Checked all my hoses and was stumped. Finally kept it running long enough to get out of the car and look under the hood and to my horror the crank was wobbling so bad the pulley looked warped. I guess now I have to pull it off and see how much damage has been done.

    More than likely I will be looking for a 1.6 motor w/ a long nose crank. Anyone have any ideas on where I might find one?

  2. #2

  3. #3

    Default

    I'm wondering if I can just rebuild this motor and put in a long nose crank from a 92-93?

  4. #4

    Default

    I think Channelmaniac might have done something like that. Raymond? You awake out there?

  5. #5
    Mr Miata Solutions Rogue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Propwash 16Xray
    Posts
    2,563

    Default

    Ive got a long crank, with a good key.

  6. #6

    Default

    sounds a lot like what mine is doing.
    99 Miata Black

  7. #7

    Default

    I haven't done it yet... I have a spare crank and was going to do it but haven't had time yet.

    The motor I pulled from the spec had low oil pressure issues so I was going to see if it just needed new bearings or if I needed to put in the other crank.

    RJ
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

    Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!

  8. #8
    Driver nealb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Texas hilly country
    Posts
    795

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by channelmaniac View Post
    I haven't done it yet... I have a spare crank and was going to do it but haven't had time yet.

    The motor I pulled from the spec had low oil pressure issues so I was going to see if it just needed new bearings or if I needed to put in the other crank.

    RJ
    was that low pressure reading only on the dash gauge, or a real one you hooked up?

    remember, my red car had low pressure on the dash gauge and great pressure on a secondary gauge
    2009 MX-5 STR and track toy
    2003 Z06 -- Not a Miata, but 3200# and 400 RWHP is fun
    OTM -- 2012 Sierra, 2016 Impala (Appliances)

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nealb View Post
    was that low pressure reading only on the dash gauge, or a real one you hooked up?

    remember, my red car had low pressure on the dash gauge and great pressure on a secondary gauge
    Dash gauge, but the replacement engine has great pressure on the same gauge.
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

    Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JDMClassic View Post
    I'm wondering if I can just rebuild this motor and put in a long nose crank from a 92-93?
    forged internals

  11. #11

    Default

    Anyone in the metroplex rebuild motors? Replace crank, bearings, etc.?

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JDMClassic View Post
    My car didn’t want to run today, it kept dying unless I had my foot on the gas like I had a vacuum leak or something. Checked all my hoses and was stumped. Finally kept it running long enough to get out of the car and look under the hood and to my horror the crank was wobbling so bad the pulley looked warped. I guess now I have to pull it off and see how much damage has been done.
    How bad was the damage??

    Do you have a picture?

  13. #13

    Default

    I haven’t torn it down yet, so no pics. The car would barely run and when it did the crank was wobbling really really bad. I can't imaging the crank and key are gonna be very repairable, and I'm not real impressed w/ the "loctite" fix either. Either way, the motor has gotta come out so I need to use the situation to my advantage. I'd really love to get a newly built FM motor, but I'm just not real sure I wanna drop 4k on new motor. My car only has 80k miles on it and is in pristine condition so getting a used motor w/ 120k or higher miles make me cringe.

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JDMClassic View Post
    Anyone in the metroplex rebuild motors? Replace crank, bearings, etc.?
    I've used Arlington Machine in the past for engine work, as have a couple of car buddies. While I haven't chosen to have them reassemble complete engines (because I'm sometimes a cheap bastard), I do believe that they offer this service.

    817-two six one-9022 is their number. Talk to Eddie.
    '90 "LE" available for purchase soon
    2008.5 CWP MS3: JBR 70d trilogy engine mounts, short throw shifter & shift plate bushings; AST 4100 w/ 400lb springs f/r; JRZ camber plates

  15. #15

    Default

    I had always heard that it was way cheaper to replace the entire engine than to repair a LWSC (Light Weight Sport Crank) failure, unless you did the all the work yourself. If you find out differently, please let us know.

  16. #16

    Default

    Is anyone still selling JDM motors? Those usually have low miles due to the wacky laws there that make it easier to replace a motor with 30k miles to pass their emissions laws.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  17. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Titus View Post
    I think Channelmaniac might have done something like that. Raymond? You awake out there?
    Yep, it came from my last engine!
    90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows

    92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...

  18. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cwisenheimer View Post
    I had always heard that it was way cheaper to replace the entire engine than to repair a LWSC (Light Weight Sport Crank) failure, unless you did the all the work yourself. If you find out differently, please let us know.
    Yep, you can usually pick up a decent take out engine for $400-800 complete.

    Quote Originally Posted by black roadster View Post
    Is anyone still selling JDM motors? Those usually have low miles due to the wacky laws there that make it easier to replace a motor with 30k miles to pass their emissions laws.
    There should be, Eric Japan is the one of the more popular places to buy one. I bought one a couple years ago and I installed another one from them in a friends car about a year ago.
    90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows

    92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...

  19. #19

    Default

    I haven’t had time to pull the I/C pipes out of the way but I did inspect the front of the crank pulley from underneath the car today, and it looked normal. The main center bolt looked fine and the 4 small outer bolts looked fine too. The crank pulley is not loose as far as trying to move it by hand. What should I be looking for?

    I took some quick vids of the wobbling that concerns me.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1apfMgWhsPo

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agAE6Z_7lV4

  20. #20

    Default

    Yikes... yeah that looks like a little bit of a wobble.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Pictures of my the bad crankshaft
    By gene501 in forum Miata Tech and Chat
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-01-2005, 04:00 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •