If it's frame and all, should be only 3 bolts near each seat-belt tower. Rain rail is already attached. Make sure your drain holes are clear and go for it.
In preparation for the install of my new-to-me NB top (thanks, Gary!), I've pulled the 1/4 trim and rear deck carpet. I'm ready to start unfastening stuff that will make the car decidedly un-waterproof.
Anything I need to keep in mind? I've read the pointy board NA to NB top article and looked at my copy of the Enthusiast's Manual. It all looks pretty straightforward - which usually means I'm about to forget something important (or possibly break something...)
Trickyrix, you were the last to pull this off, IIRC. What do I need to remember?
Thanks!
'96 M-edition
If it's frame and all, should be only 3 bolts near each seat-belt tower. Rain rail is already attached. Make sure your drain holes are clear and go for it.
You got it. Easier said than done, of course, getting all the bolt holes to line up the first time - a helper might be a good thing! Also, be sure you tighten your rain rail nuts in the right order (or else you might have some leaks). This ought to come in handy:
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Make sure you have a good rain rail handy. The one in the car is probably going to crack when you take it out. I have swapped out many tops, both fabric only and frame and all, and NEVER had one rail stay together without cracking. You can repair the old rain rail using some super strong black duct tape but it will lengthen your change out time and might only last a while (my repaired one is going on 1 year and still no leaks). Otherwise it is pretty straight forward and can be done by a single person. Oh yeah, don't forget the plastic clip retainer thing holding the front end of each side of the rain rail. It is buried under the rubber seal at the door post.
Currently Miata-less... 2007 Brilliant Black NC PRHT, to replace 2006 Winning Blue NC, to replace 2002 SE, to replace 1993 LE #1322 and so on and so on...
Thanks, guys.
The NB top has a good rain rail attached, so it should be pretty plug & play. I have the set plate tightening sequence printed out, and I've taken a good look at all the nuts & bolt I have to remove.
I should be good to go. Just gotta work up the courage to pull the top off, given that it's raining and I have to get it back on right or I'll get wet tomorrow.
'96 M-edition
Isn't the NB rain rail rubber? The one on my old top was that thin plastic POS that shattered when I pulled it off, but newer tops (and a lot of aftermarket ones, like mine) have a nice rubber rain rail that shouldn't be a problem. Plus, it should already be attached to the top.
EDIT: I see my post is now entirely redundant.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
The whole job took me maybe 3 hours - 30 minutes to get the old top off, 30 minutes to stab the new top on, and 2 hours of jacking with it to get all the bolts/nuts lined up and installed. The problem is getting ALL the bolts stabbed on the sides. There's some scissor action involved so those bolt holes move around on the top in relation to the ones on the car - you'll see what I'm talking about when you take your old top off. If you've got a helper, that would probably shave a good hour off the install time, since they can move the top around from one side while you stab bolts on the other - I did a fair amount of cussing and tool-chucking, but finally got everything buttoned up just before the rain hit that day.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Here's some advice....
Linkie
So I'm 2 1/2 hrs into the project, and the new top is in and water tight.
I spent about 30 min pulling trim and carpet. From the time I started pulling set plate nuts until I poured water along the belt line to check for leaks was exactly 2 hrs. Including a detour to fix the wire to the switch that interrupts the defroster when you drop the top, and one more to find the set plate nut I dropped... And I checked the drains while I could see everything really well.
I did have a helper to lift the old top out, to set the new one in, and to help get the rubber flap inside the rain rail while stabbing all the studs for the rain rail.
I still need to put the rear deck carpet back in and re-install the trim around the seat belts, but it'll be easier to check for leaks tomorrow with all that stuff out of the way. I probably need to stop by VatoZone or the dealer and pick up a handful of the carpet buttons anyway. I killed a couple of them pulling the carpet this afternoon.
All in all, a pretty straightforward project. The write-up on the pointy board is very accurate, and I appreciate the hints from you guys. The top looks great except for the handprints... Maybe I'll get some PC time in next weekend and I'll post some pics.
For now, it's off to bed.
'96 M-edition
Congrats! Looking forward to the pix!
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds