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Thread: *sigh* If it ain't one thing... (Teg trouble)

  1. #21

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    Just get a whole rebuilt distributor from Autozone. They come with coil, igniter and all the sensors. The Integra integrates the cam and crank angle sensors into the distributor.

    Just looked it up and they go for $225 Part number should be 31-17423 or there abouts

    The coil alone is $65, and the ignition module is another $97. They are buried in the distributor. The reman distro comes with lifetime warranty to boot.

    I had a bearing fail in my distributor, so if you swap the whole thing, that's one less part you have to worry about down the line.
    '06 RSX Type-S NBP

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by MadMonkey View Post
    I just now replaced the cap and rotor, and it's still not starting.... guess it's on to the coil then
    Before you start spending money, do you know what the problem is? Get somebody to turn it over while you check under the hood for spark. Don't buy a new coil if you have good spark. If you don't have any spark, use a test light (or multimeter) to see if there is good power supply to the coil/distributor unit. If there is a electricity going into the coil (the little wires), but not coming out (the "spark plug" wire), that is your problem.

    If you do have good spark, go to Autozone for a "loan a tool" fuel pressure gauge and a compression gauge. Check these next. A good fuel pump should give a very minimum 30-35 psi to the fuel rail. I wouldn't be surprised to see 45psi.

    When you check the compression, look for two things. First you want minimum pressure required for combustion. Most cars are in the 125-145 range, depending on compression ratio. Second, you want to see compression of each cylinder to be pretty consistent across the four cylinders. Generally, 7-10psi between the highest and lowest cylinder pressure reading is a sign of a healthy engine (mechanically).
    1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
    1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
    1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!

  3. #23

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    It was the coil!

    $70 part, but I have the satisfaction of knowing that I figured out the problem and repaired it myself instead of taking it to the shop like some dumb yahoo.






    Actually, I bought a voltmeter and continuity tester, but I said screw it and went to Autozone, bought a coil, replaced it, and it fired right up. I never used the testers. I suck at being a mechanic.
    09 Lexus RX350
    .... no Miata

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by MadMonkey View Post
    It was the coil!

    $70 part, but I have the satisfaction of knowing that I figured out the problem and repaired it myself instead of taking it to the shop like some dumb yahoo.
    Don't worry, you're still a dumb yahoo to us.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  5. #25
    Driver creek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadMonkey View Post
    It was the coil!
    I hate to say I told you so but........ Glad you're going again.
    Stripe Das Sape

    We are leading the world to democracy by example.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by MadMonkey View Post
    I suck at being a mechanic.
    A lot of parts changers call themselves mechanics. This illustrates the difference perfectly.

  7. #27
    Another RARE Miata flyin94m's Avatar
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    Aww... No blow torch??
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
    There's no six-way traction control. There's no complicated folding metal roof. It's simpler than that. Engine in the front, drive to the rear, and a big smiling piece of meat in the middle.

    Currently:

    1991 Mariner Blue (daily driver)
    Previously:
    1994 M-Edition

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