Just my 2 Cents = I'd push to get it totaled it will never be the same, plus who wants to buy a once wrecked but expertly fixed Miata.
Glad you are OK!
I know it's been awhile since I have frequented this board. I have been having too much fun on my new motorcycle for the last few months.
Last Wednesday morning during the ice that we had, I was driving the 1 mile to my work. At the train tracks that go across K Ave in Plano just south of 15th street, I hit a patch of ice, and my Miata slid out and went backwards into a telephone poleI was going straight backwards at the time and it impacted square on my bumper on the driver's side. I am ok, however.
The hit I still believe was around 25mph, but it really did a number to my left rear quarter panel. The repair shop said it impacted in just the right place to put maximum leverage on the quarter panel. The frame was bent on that side about 12mm, all 5 rods of the multilink were bent, and the left rear quarter is ruined. I came very close to having the car totaled. However, it has been authorized, and the repair shop (Caliber Collision) is going to fix it. They say they are going to bend the frame back, weld in a new quarter panel including the strut tower, and put back together the suspension. They swear they are going to have it stronger than it came out of factory. I will believe that it will be strong enough for street use, but I don't think I will ever get to track it.
The twisted thing (well, not so twisted when you think of it) is, I may still sell off the Miata after all this. I am pretty sure my insurance rates will be increased from this, and it may be more affordable for me at this point to just get rid of it. There is a certain logic to that. If I am not sufficiently careful, then I should not be driving a sports car. Or at the very least be charged more for the priveledge. Unfortunately for the insurance companies, I realise that it's not exactly something I need and I can just go without it and not pay them for it.
Edit: And somehow through all this damage, I didn't even crack the taillight.
Last edited by MX-5EE; 02-03-2009 at 06:20 PM.
Just my 2 Cents = I'd push to get it totaled it will never be the same, plus who wants to buy a once wrecked but expertly fixed Miata.
Glad you are OK!
I don't think I can get away with that. I was told that the difference between repair cost and total cost is $7k. I might be tempted if it were closer.
I think I could manage to sell it by providing documentation of the repair and selling it for around $13k to $14k. The average price of a 2006 NC seems to be around $15k to $16k. In any case, I may just be borrowing trouble here. I will have to talk to my insurance company and see what happens. Insurance companies can be strict but weird. One guy I know totaled his NB but his rates didn't go up. Go figure.
Sell it on fleaBay before that hit makes it to CarFax!![]()
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Sell it as is or part it out.
Why get rid of it because of possible ins. hike?
Wouldn't a hike apply to any car you drive?
I doubt they would increase your ins rate, unless you have other recent claims. You can work with the ins saying it is the ice and not your driving. They should cut you some slack. Last year I had a 4+K hail damage claim and they even get angry. Actually, my bill for this year is a few $s less than last year!
Gabriel
I'm sure MX-5EE would not do this, and I hope the suggestion of selling it without disclosing the accident damage to the buyer was just tongue in cheek humor. To me that is an issue of personal ethics.
Be sure to look into a claim of diminished value with your insurance. I don't know if this is different since this was a one car accident that wasn't another driver's fault, but you may be able to recover some of the value the car will lose on resale.
Greg H.
2002 Spec Miata
The car will be fine. Make sure the doors shut and seams line up, then drive it forever and no one will know. Some repairs are good, some are bad. If insurance is paying for it, then take the car to a place which deals with really, really high end cars.
The car will be fine, and fine on the track. People worry about this crap too much.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
Why not? If it is repaired properly, it shouldn't be a problem. I bet there are many SPEC Miatas out there have had pretty similar accidents in there lifetime both before and after becoming a SPEC. The problem I see is that even a properly repaired car will have a lower re-sale value, and tend to have paint issues years after the repair.
I worked at the car rental counter in a body shop for about a year, actually serving many shops at the same time, and learned a few things from listening to the techs and sharing beverages that may be applicable here.
It isn't the shop, it is the tech doing the repair. Big shops have lots of people doing the work, some great, some not so much, but have minimum quality standards to stay employed. Small shops with good techs get their business by word of mouth if it is quality work, or by smooth talking if their work is crap. If the work at a quality shop (including the big chain shops) is sub-par, the work is redone, probably by the same tech, who doesn't get any extra pay. I don't know what happens at the small shops with lousy work, since they didn't get insurance business.
Texas insurance companies require a lifetime warranty on repairs, so everyone who does a lot of insurance work will advertise the lifetime warranty. This usually separates the decent shops from the not-so-decent shops. Also, insurance companies prefer to send their customers to shops that get repairs right the first time and quickly, thus reducing rental car costs.
If I were looking at a repaired vehicle, I would take it to a trusted friend who does collision apprasials and get an estimate to get it repaired right. Hopefully, the cost would be the case of beer to get him to look at it, and nothing more. If there was going to be additional cost, I would factor that into the decision on whether to buy it or not, and expect to buy another case of beer or three for the everybody-in-the-shop-critiqute-the-work party for the acceptance inspection.
Hope this helps
Mike Walsted - Not an expert, just a data point.
1999 Miata
2003 MIata
1999 Miata
2001 Kia Rio
...hence the dancing banana. Get used to sarcasm around here and you'll learn to enjoy it.
Anyhow, if they fix it right I wouldn't have any problem taking the thing out on the track, and I certainly wouldn't have a problem driving it on the street. As long as everything is put back into alignment, I think you'd be good to go.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
92 Sunny 214k, 95 Dimples, 93 James Bondo, 92 SM (Speedie Jr)
Shelley, Apex, Tigger, Max, Baby(cats), Fluffy, Spot, and Peanut (mini horses), Cinnamon & Bitsy(dawgs)
MSR #1001, SCCA #208822Let's go racin'
1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!
No doubt!
Absolutely. As several others have said, a large number of spec miatas have been banged up pretty good and are repaired and racing. As long as it aligns correctly and the structural integrity is solid, who cares if a track car has been wrecked.
Greg H.
2002 Spec Miata
Strictly speaking, my daily transport would be a bicycle or my shoes. I work one mile from home, so I never take my bike to work. In terms of door-to-door time from home to work, when I am done putting on my overpants, jacket, boots, helmet, gloves, get the bike unlocked, get the bike started (a carbied bike can be a real pain to start sometimes), get the bike to work, get in the door, remove overpants, jacket, boots, helmet, and gloves (I bring normal shoes in a backpack), it actually takes me longer to ride my motorcycle to work than it does to walk. Yes, I am an all-gear-all-the-time. The way I see it, my gear is for all intents and purposes my seat belt.
But you do have a good point to which I have no real answer. I find it odd that I can insure my motorcycle for a mere fraction of my car when the motorcycle is far more risky. But as I already said, insurance is an odd beast.
Finally, thanks for all the replies. I will just have to see how the chips fall before I make a firm decision.
91 Miata (#3), Rattle Can Grey(previous owner), Greddy Turbo @7 PSI and Manifold (Only items remaining from the kit), TDR I/C, Godspeed Radiator, RM DP, 2.5 Enthuza Bipes, BEGI AFPR, ACT, Lightened Stock Flywheel, Yellow Konis, FCM on Stock Springs, HDM2S, MOMO Wheel, Ratsback Front CF Lip, Black Rota's on EcstaXS, Corrado Rotors & XP8's on Front w/ 1.8 rears.
http://austinmiata.com/
Wishlist: Megasquirt to run 12-13 PSI, White non-spray paint job, 8" 6UL's, RX7 LSD, Evans Waterless Coolant