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Thread: Let's talk rifles (AR-15 build thread)

  1. #1

    Default Let's talk rifles (AR-15 build thread)

    Since we seem to have a plethora of gun owners on the board, give me advice on building an AR-15.


    My goals/objectives:
    -Budget setup (TCB), doesn't have to be top of the line but looking for quality/durable components.

    -Mainly for hunting. I don't need a retractable stock or a shitload of accessories (lights and laser). Also, I don't need a short barrel or a long competition level one either.

    -I would like a scope with backup iron sights already mounted, I'm not sure how this effects the scope selection.

    -I am set on an AR-15 for various reasons. I'm not considering other guns at this point.

    What are y'all's thoughts and opinions? What sites should I be shopping at or browsing for information? Recommended books (Inter library loans FTW)?

    Chris
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  2. #2

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    Academy has a Bushmaster, $899 out the door last I checked. Choice between fixed sight and scope mount if I remember correctly.

    Im not an expert or anything but judging by the last gun show I was at definitely one of the cheapest and easiest ways of doing it. They're not top of the line by any means but I haven't heard any complaints of reliability. If anyone has a cheaper alternative I might be interested.
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  3. #3

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    Bushmaster or DPMS would be good bargain brands. The best way is to look at some of the gun forums. There usually are tons of AR-15s for sale. You will get what you pay for, though. It seems like you will not put a lot of brass through your gun. I am looking at the Ruger SR-556. Fairly new and will be a little more than what you are looking at price wise, but it is a Ruger. I have a Colt and love it. I had a little bit a time finding ammo (.223), but I have recently bought a little. ;->

  4. #4

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    My father has a bushmaster for sale. New in .223 calliber. He purchased it for himself, but found a Stag in a lefthanded model right before he got the bushmaster in the mail.
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  5. #5
    Driver creek's Avatar
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    Or just build it yourself. Buy a Fulton Armory stripped reciever from Brownells, have it transferred through a dealer, and buy all the other parts from Gunbroker.com or similar.
    If you want iron sights and a scope you have two options: An upper with a carry handle and a very high mounted scope or a flat top with detatchable sights (expensive). I would ditch the iron sight idea on a hunting rifle and go with a flat top and floating bull barrel upper. You could get the iron sights later. Get a 1 in 8 twist barrel to handle a wider variety of bullet weights and better long range accuracy. The best trigger on the market for the money is the Rock River two stage setup. Under $100.

    My favorite hunting setup:
    Fulton armory lower: $176.41
    Rock River trigger and lower parts kit. $108
    DPMS 20" HBAR flat top, .223 chamber (not 5.56) one in eight twist. $420
    Sightron 3X9 mil-dot scope. $120

    You should be able to build it cheaper with a little shopping. I pulled these prices down in about 5 minutes. Let me know if you need any help with assembly or ammo. I use Hornady 68gr BTHP match bullets over a near max load of Varget and get one shot coyote kills at 600 yards.
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    Last edited by creek; 11-12-2009 at 09:05 PM.
    Stripe Das Sape

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  6. #6

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    I'm on my phone posting this right now ill post more when I get home but I think that if ur on any kind of budget I suggest buying a stripped lower and a bulit upper and parts kit. I've built a few like that very easy to do lowers are easy to put together.
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  7. #7

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    Creek you sound like you know what you're talking about. I'd be happy to nail a coyote from 100 yards, unfortunately they're usually already moving by the time I spot them.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by cam76034 View Post
    Creek you sound like you know what you're talking about. I'd be happy to nail a coyote from 100 yards, unfortunately they're usually already moving by the time I spot them.
    You have to learn to lead them when they are moving...

    It's pretty simple to do.
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by creek View Post
    Or just build it yourself. Buy a Fulton Armory stripped reciever from Brownells, have it transferred through a dealer, and buy all the other parts from Gunbroker.com or similar.
    If you want iron sights and a scope you have two options: An upper with a carry handle and a very high mounted scope or a flat top with detatchable sights (expensive). I would ditch the iron sight idea on a hunting rifle and go with a flat top and floating bull barrel upper. You could get the iron sights later. Get a 1 in 8 twist barrel to handle a wider variety of bullet weights and better long range accuracy. The best trigger on the market for the money is the Rock River two stage setup. Under $100.

    My favorite hunting setup:
    Fulton armory lower: $176.41
    Rock River trigger and lower parts kit. $108
    DPMS 20" HBAR flat top, .223 chamber (not 5.56) one in eight twist. $420
    Sightron 3X9 mil-dot scope. $120

    You should be able to build it cheaper with a little shopping. I pulled these prices down in about 5 minutes. Let me know if you need any help with assembly or ammo. I use Hornady 68gr BTHP match bullets over a near max load of Varget and get one shot coyote kills at 600 yards.
    How much brass taught you to hit something moving at 600 yards? That is freaking awesome!!!! Were you in the military? When I lived in deep east Texas, I would hit a moving white tail with my 30-30 at about 150-175 yards. I have hit hogs at almost 200 yards with the 30-30, but they are much bigger and lower to the ground with their bodies...

  10. #10
    Driver creek's Avatar
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    I didn't say they were moving! Unless they are coming right at me! I was in the Army during the Vietnam era and kind of grew up with the M16/AR15. I still shoot DCM matches with iron sights at 200 standing, 300 sitting rapid fire and 600 prone slow fire. Here are a few pics of my DCM competition rifle. This rifle has a stainless bull barrel and shot the tiny group in my previous post at 100 yds (of course I had something to do with it too).
    Many of the sloppy built and "cheap" ARs wont shoot worth a damn. Quality parts mean a quality fit. There is not much skill in putting a good rifle together, it's building a rifle from crap parts that's hard. DPMS makes accurate and reliable uppers but their lowers and lower parts kits are crap. That's why I recommended a FORGED Fulton Armory lower.
    Bushmaster? Puuuleeese.

    How much brass? My reloading logs went over 50,000 rounds in 1982 and I quit keeping track.


    Last edited by creek; 11-13-2009 at 11:33 PM.
    Stripe Das Sape

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  11. #11

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    Moving or not, that is awesome!! Props to your military service as well. My dad just bought a reloading kit. He has his FFL, so he is getting ready to start selling guns. I will take a look at the Fulton lowers.

  12. #12

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    I'm with Creek, build it yourself! It's cheaper and you can get a rifle that's exactly what you want. I built mine a few years ago and saved several hundred $$ over buying off-the-shelf.

    I got a stripped Rock River Arms receiver and went with a 16 in. Olympic featherweight barrel with an aluminum free float tube on a standard A2 upper up top. And while I kept the iron sights, I did add a scope. Also added an Ace skeleton stock because I liked it (and it's light). In any case, building it is actually pretty easy. Everything you ever wanted to know can be found on the AR15 forums.

    Here's mine:

  13. #13

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    All great advice guys, thanks.

    Creek, I love the old school AR. I've done a few matchs at the State level when I was still in the guard. Open sights starting @ 500m prone on down to 50m standing to put on and fire with your gas mask, IIRC.

    Y'alls thoughts on this for scope mounting with iron sights, UTE2:


    http://rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?f...ategory_id=279

    Chris
    91 Miata (#3), Rattle Can Grey(previous owner), Greddy Turbo @7 PSI and Manifold (Only items remaining from the kit), TDR I/C, Godspeed Radiator, RM DP, 2.5 Enthuza Bipes, BEGI AFPR, ACT, Lightened Stock Flywheel, Yellow Konis, FCM on Stock Springs, HDM2S, MOMO Wheel, Ratsback Front CF Lip, Black Rota's on EcstaXS, Corrado Rotors & XP8's on Front w/ 1.8 rears.

    http://austinmiata.com/

    Wishlist: Megasquirt to run 12-13 PSI, White non-spray paint job, 8" 6UL's, RX7 LSD, Evans Waterless Coolant

  14. #14

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    10% off web orders at DPMS.com through November 25th.

    Use the code: NOVEMBER09
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

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  15. #15
    MME Goodwill Ambassador onething's Avatar
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    Well, Miatamaniac92, did you ever build anything?

    Where are prices now compared to a year ago? I remember going to a show the weekend before the last 1st Tuesday election, and every third table was selling AR's and half the people walking around were too!
    Bidden or not bidden, God is present
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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by creek View Post
    I use Hornady 68gr BTHP match bullets over a near max load of Varget and get one shot coyote kills at 600 yards.
    I know who to go to when zombies take over the world in 2012...
    Cory
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  17. #17

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    I got mine finished early Christmas Eve morning. :)

    The last 4 parts came in via USPS and I got to learn the finer points of putting the barrel on the upper receiver and threading gas tubes. The Magpul handguards look great over the DPMS carbine barrel. :)

    I used the A4 upper and a Cavalry Arms composite lower. It weighs in right at 7lbs. The barrel is by far the heaviest part of the carbine I built.

    :)

    Today I get to buy ammo.
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

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  18. #18

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    Don't forget to check out ar15.com for anything related to AR's or firearms for that matter.

  19. #19

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    Just an after thought but if you purchase the upper and the lower seperately you can avoid having to pay an excise tax
    Blah blah blah!

  20. #20

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    I have one of the AR15.com special purchase Cavalry Arms composite lowers. Bought it off a friend and it was still sealed.

    I'm shooting iron sights and was having fun plinking the steel torso silhouette at 300 yards after we got the sights dialed in. :)

    BLAM! (one thousand one... one thousand two...) WHACK! It takes a couple of seconds for the impact sound to travel back.
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