Have you drained the fluid in in it to see if you have any chunks in it?? If you do it more than likely it is time to change the diff.
So I want to open up the 1.6 differential on my miata to see if any of the teeth are broken. How do I go about doing this? do I have to remove the driveshaft?
-pogo
Have you drained the fluid in in it to see if you have any chunks in it?? If you do it more than likely it is time to change the diff.
Is it making a bunch of racket, binding up and/or slipping?
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
How many miles are on the car? Any power adders? Does the car have a factory LSD? When was the fluid last changed and did you have the problem before and after the change?
"Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami
Sounds like a busted diff to me. But you should be able to open up the drain plug and fish around for chunky bits to confirm. A good tool for this would be one of those extendable pen magnets.
I think Brandon (farphle here on the boards) is on his 3rd diff, with a stock 1.6 motor. The first diff just ate itself up, chewing teeth off the ring and pinion gears.
Now might be a good time to bite the bullet and round up the parts for a 1.8 Torsen swap (or at least a 1.8 open diff). Either that or just pick up another 1.6 diff and do a quick and dirty swap.
Last edited by trickyrix; 03-05-2010 at 04:32 PM.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Put a 7" diff in it ASAP.
I busted a 91 VLSD on 635 at High Five in heavy traffic.....
and a 93 VLSD on 35W, they never disintergrate at a good time.
1.6 diff are weak and adding torque to it spells problems.
I just need it back and running, where would be the best place to look for a 1.6 diff? know of anyone on here selling one?
Post here in the classifieds, or go visit your local junk yard.
Mazda/Nissan Heaven is a good one, as is Apple Import Salvage in Kennedale...
(However, I thought Apple was down off Riverside in FW/TX... Go figure...)
I would second Rogue's advice to pick up a 1.8 diff... otherwise, you will likely be tossing money down the urinal.
Last edited by trickyrix; 03-06-2010 at 12:01 PM.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Rogue is right, they always go at the worst time. Both of mine went at lunch, both on Thursdays, and only 9 weeks apart! Strange. I got my second replacement diff from Mazda/Nissan Heaven for, I think, ~$200. At the very least I would go with a 1.8 open diff with axles and driveshaft. That's my plan, but for now I just baby my little 1.6 diff. If you do go with just the 1.6 diff the swap is easy. I think mine took 2-3 hours with jack stands and hand tools.
'92
Eh, it happens. I was being easy on it too. Oh well. Upgrade is on the list, after control arms and bushings.
'92