Which would you choose?

[CarCar]

Would be a daily driver. I do a 100+ mile one way commute most days. I enjoy tinkering and modifying my cars as much as driving them. Try to do 3-4 hpde's a year but no autocross.

First up
2001 BMW Z4M Roadster Sport Package
48.7 k miles
$24.5 k
z4m..jpg

excellent condition with the legendary S54 Motor! The M Roadster is an instant classic and collectable, this example includes Dinan Rear End, H&R adjustable Coil over suspension with Dinan Front Strut, Dinan Sway Bars and bushings, front cross drilled and slotted discs and slotted discs rear, 6 piston front calipers, 4 piston rear (Rotora red calipers), stainless brake lines, super blue fluid, ASA 18 cross spoke wheels with BF Good wrench KDW tires (95% tread remaining), BSW sound system with sub, alarm, iPod interface, Dinan cold air intake, Remus exhaust, high performance ignition coils, new never installed M steering wheel. Factory M wheels included (some discoloration of wheels 65% tread remaining on tires), car cover, No track, no smoke, garage kept.

Second choice
2006 Honda S2000
14.7 k miles
$20.0 k
s2000 06..jpg

STILL UNDER HONDA EXTENDED WARRANTY. Runs and looks great. Engine is 2.2-liter, Dual Overhead Cam, 16-valves, I-4, Electronic Convertable Top Transmission: 6-speed manual. No accidents, Non-smoker, Very clean interior, Well maintained. Very clean interior, Still under factory warranty

Third choice
2008 Mazda Miata MX5 Grand Touring
19.9k miles
$18.0 k
miata 08 grand to&#.jpg
lsd, leather, Bose, 6sp manual, etc.

[Dave04]

Considering the S2000 is my daily driver... easy choice...

[sammm]

I'd throw out the Bimmer just on its age alone....being the most expensive and highest mileage doesn't help.

Tough choice between the StooK and the MX5. Aren't some StooK's known for having weak rear-ends and expensive upgrades? Hard to beat the Miata (MX5) in bang-for-the-buck.

[Dave04]

Aren't some StooK's known for having weak rear-ends and expensive upgrades?

Actually, the rear-ends are usually OK until you add boost (from what I've read)... the real issue with "weakness" in the drive train on the Stooks appear to be the clutch/pressure plate which may have been by design. It's a pretty common upgrade to put in an OEM clutch disks with an ACT pressure plate. Ask TC and he'll tell you it isn't that hard to make the clutch slip with some aggressive (read that: near red line) shifting with the OEM setup. But it's quite acceptable for daily driving...

[POS Racing]

I'd so some research and see which one can handle a raccoon strike the best.

I'd also check insurance rates since Dave04 is one of the oldest people to currently own an S2000.

[Nails]

LOL on the raccoon durability.

I've heard the Hondas aren't as good a DD as the NC due to their high rev for usable torque. The NCs have nice torque early on. I've never driven an S2000 though, so not speaking from experience. That said, I'd do the NC with a LSD. Check to see if it has the yellow bilstein shocks as they came with the factory LSD. Also see if you can do a better price. I think that one is at least a grand high.


They only way I'd pay 25 grand for a 50k car is if it's C6 Vette or an Elise.

Let us know what you get.

[Titus]

What happened to the second Miata you picked up?

[trickyrix]

If it's going to be a DD, go with the NC.

If you like to tinker and make cheap yet effective mods, go with the NC.

If you want something cheap to run at the track, go with the NC.

If you want to improve resistance to suicidal raccoons, invest in extra protection:


If you want to fix a lot of expensive stuff out of warranty, go with the Bimmer.

[apex2apex]

If you are going with MX-5, I would go with PRHT.

If you are into HPDEs, I would go with the S2000. They are very fast on track with minimum mods needed.

[sloked up]

if it was a AP1 S2K i would have said the MX-5 in a heartbeat. the AP1's come with a 2.0L motor, have a history of spinning bearings and throwing rods. also some of the AP1's have weak rear ends even for stock power. but there are some exceptions... such as this car with a stock motor, stock trans, stock rear end. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQst99sHUsc

now the AP2 S2K on the other hand, i LOVE. my mom has had both the AP1 and now the AP2. the 2.2L motor has a lot more low end torque, a smoother transmission and a much more comfortable interior. though they rev to 8K instead of 9K, they made up with the a noticable amount of low end torque.

me personally, i would love to have the S2K for the extra power, good relyability and the fact that they are sexy as hell.... plus iv driven them around a lot

[Flyin96M]

Well to start with the BMW in the photo is a Z3 not the Z4. I think you should also really look at the cost of ownership on that car as the S54 requires inspection I & II's with the second needed around 50k miles. Most dealers will charge anywhere from $1,500-$2,500 for the inspection II so keep that in mind. That motor is also pretty high strung and performance parts are exspensive with little to no gain.

So like everyone else it would be between the Honda and the Miata. I'd probably go with the Miata because as I understand in order to buy an S2000 you have to forget how to drive in the rain or any other bad weather

[sloked up]

So like everyone else it would be between the Honda and the Miata. I'd probably go with the Miata because as I understand in order to buy an S2000 you have to forget how to drive in the rain or any other bad weather

nah, with the new additions to the AP2's (which he has posted up), they are very capable of driving in any kind of bad weather.

[CosmosMpower]

I would not get a convertible if you drive 100+ miles a day unless you like wind noise a lot. The Z3M will probably be the most quiet but most expensive to buy/maintain. The AP2 S2000 is livable and probably more fun than a NC stock for stock at a HPDE.

[Miatamoto]

I would not get a convertible if you drive 100+ miles a day unless you like wind noise a lot. The Z3M will probably be the most quiet but most expensive to buy/maintain. The AP2 S2000 is livable and probably more fun than a NC stock for stock at a HPDE.

Everything he said. The AP2 makes a fun track car straight out of the box, even on a bone stock suspension. While the NC torque is a great thing, in stock form it isn't the most "fun" engine to drive on the track. I like the S2K interior a lot, but I would probalby go with the NC interior and driveability for daily driving. I know it's easy to change, but the NC stereo blows the AP2 stereo out of the water. Also figure out if you want a power or manual top. The S2K has a great, fast power top, but will never have the top down ease of the NC. Roll bar options for the NC are not great and one of the biggest drivers for me selling mine. Addition of any of the single hoop roll bar options will make the NC top harder to use.

One more thing, if you do your own maintenance on your cars, don't worry about the bimmer too much. Inspection 1 and 2 are really overblown oil changes that the dealership charges a lot for. Do a search for what's involved in those services, it's nothing special.

[tailchaser]

You forgot my favorite choice...

'07 Honda
$8,000
0 miles



I'd probably go with the Z4 or a PRHT NC.

[goofygrin]

You don't want to own a BMW without some sort of warranty.

You DAMN sure don't want to own a convertible BMW out of warranty.

Friend had a Z4 and the top, electric power steering and weird front suspension issues cost him a ton of money. He's in a Z4M Coupe now and it has the same front end issue (but not steering since the M cars have normal steering).

[Flyin96M]

One more thing, if you do your own maintenance on your cars, don't worry about the bimmer too much. Inspection 1 and 2 are really overblown oil changes that the dealership charges a lot for. Do a search for what's involved in those services, it's nothing special.

Agreed, except that the Inspection II includes valve adjustment. Most if not all items can be self performed, but my fear with the newer BMW's is when it comes time to sell. I really like BMW's, but they are just not worth the money they want for them.

Why not consider a Boxster S? Nice ones can be had in the price range you are looking at and are good all around cars in stock form.

[Miatamoto]

Agreed, except that the Inspection II includes valve adjustment. Most if not all items can be self performed, but my fear with the newer BMW's is when it comes time to sell. I really like BMW's, but they are just not worth the money they want for them.

Why not consider a Boxster S? Nice ones can be had in the price range you are looking at and are good all around cars in stock form.

Good point, forgot that the S54 needs valve adjustments. The S52 that I had didn't. I think BMW do pretty well when you sell them if you buy them used for the right price. Ask Cosmos, he did very well on his M3. Just don't buy a new BMW.

Seems like the P-car would be a bit worse when it comes to maintenance.

[ken o]

That would be a Z3M not Z4M roadster in the picture. I just did Inspection II. I don't like changing fluids so I paid someone. With valve adjustments and fluids the cost was just under $1K.

[CarCar]

What happened to the second Miata you picked up?

I drive it daily. I payed nothing for it except traded a rusty '91 Toyota 4x4 pickup for it. It has 108k miles. My intention is to transfer everything I can from the wrecked '01. The motor needs some attention, leaky front seals, timing belt, dry gaskets etc. I am just thinking that by the time I have done all the work myself I will have a 11 year old car with almost 170k miles on it. If I decide to pay somebody else to install all my parts it will more than likely set me back $2k to $3k. It will be about as tired as I am. I'm just exploring some other options I might have.