Reply With QuoteDude, he's like 16. They stopped teaching grammar in schools well before he was even born.Originally Posted by trickyrix
Unfortunately, you're not very clever and you seem to have trouble with teh grammar.
No.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Dude, he's like 16. They stopped teaching grammar in schools well before he was even born.
Yeah mine sits around the 139 degree mark, and when i shoot the laser temp needle at the thermostat housing im only getting around 130 degrees and when i point it at the top of my aluminum radiator it reads like 110.Repost.
Here, pic of the deadspot on an NA - the NB is similar, with some people saying it's actually worse (I personally do not know either way on an NB):
99° | 120° | 139° | 159° | 174° | 200° | 220° | 240° | 260° | 270°
(photo credit to whomever took the actual photo years ago)
Notice from ~159° to ~220° is what most people consider "normal" needle position. That goes from not even open thermostat temp to a bit hot...for roughly the same needle position. Some will even claim the 240° position above is their "normal summer" gauge position.
But one fan should be running at all times correct? None of them run till my ac comes on then in fact both fans do come on.
Nope it runs only as needed.
That could be my problem, my car never actually gets hot enough to trigger the fan
What degree does the ECU tell the fan to kick on 160 ?
Also are aftermarket thermostats in the NBs problematic?
i used an oreillys auto parts one, should have i gone with an OEM one from Mazda ?
Not sure on a '99.
But a '94 the fan switch closes (turns fan on) around 97C (207F) and opens around 90C (194F).
Hey Rob® you OK with me posting also??
I took a 190 degree one out when i bought the car. I bought an 180 degree one from oreillys and that didn't change the position the gauge sits on the dash192 is the factory recomened temp. Is that what you are currently running??
OEM Thermostat.
I'm not happy about it, but I like reading new posts...Hey Rob® you OK with me posting also??
I don't know about NBs, but in general thermostats are one of the things I will always get OEM. (I did have a Nismo thermostat on my Z, but that's technically still OEM)
Not saying that's your problem, or that OE parts are always 100% not defective, but it's a possibility. Pull it, and put that thing in a pot of boiling water - see what it does (half kidding).
Yeah i was reading around and i read the OEM stats have the double valve and alot of the aftermarket miata ones only have one valve, perhaps thats why it doesent warm up all the way ?
Yeah i run the stock thermostat in the Z but the Z's Cooling system is alot harder to maintain and work on then the Miata lol
As much as you probably don't want to hear it, I would *start* by putting in a Mazda thermostat and see if it improves. If so, money wasted, lesson learned. No biggie. If it doesn't fix it, you at least ruled out one variable.
Then, I would personally put the thermostat you have now in a pot of water, stick a thermometer in there too, and see what temp makes the thermostat start opening, and at what temp it's fully open. Then watch it as the water cools, and note how long it takes to fully close. But I'm a nerd like that, and that's why I was half kidding about actually doing it.
Yeah im going to get an OEM mazda one and hopefully that takes car of my problem, ive already flushed the radiator, changed the coolant temp sensor, put the 180 stat from orielys, and burped the radiator several times and changed the cap.
Im hoping the OEM stat will do the trick. I will update once OEM stat has been put in.
Then my car should stay in closed loop and i should see some better gas mileage i bet im burning pretty rich with the car trying to warm up the whole time.
I'm somewhat clever, to say otherwise would just be an insult for the sake of insult. I'm gifted with the gab. I use big words at times to emphasize the humor of mediocre intelligence (see I just did it right there). It is enjoyable to me.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Follow me more? You've responded to every post I've ever made. Even on other websites with different screen names. You sir are the best troll ever. You win.
It sounds like your thermostat is sticking/stuck open. I can't imagine that happening to two different thermostats instantly, although it very well could be possible. If you didn't properly burp the system, you'd have overheating problems, not overcooling. Same with crap in the radiator, as well as a faulty cap, and your fans being bad. So I would definitely look to something with the thermostat...Sorry, thinking out loud.
Agreed. Time to flush the turd out of the bowl already.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Agreed.
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