If you do use all-thread, put 2 nuts on the top to use for threading it in. That way you don't honk up the threads.
PS
I'd find the correct studs if it were me.
Last edited by CosmosMpower; 01-06-2011 at 01:42 PM.
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The Napa in Saginaw didn't even have exhaust manifold studs for me. I was floored - it's not exactly an uncommon thing for a car person to request, and ours are one of the more popular sizes. I'd highly doubt they have an odd size like he's looking for.
Point being, not all Napas are created equally![]()
Dang, I literally have hundreds of those exact length/style studs in stock here... in M10 diameter.That's a special order part, for sure. McMaster Carr to the rescue! :)
You probably won't find them with any real plating, though. Black oxide is all you'll find, and it'll eventually rust just like the old one you pictured did. Not a big deal, though.
We order them in huge numbers in that common (crap) black oxide finish, them get them clear zinc plated, and then normalized (heat treating process). Total PITA, buts the only way to get these weird studs in a real finish.
Terry Fair @ Vorshlag Motorsports
Turns out the long end is too short. I did get a hold of a sales person at that company to see if they have the right part. This is turning to be a PITA. Checked Lowes, Autozone, O Riley's (had something close but no cigar), Elliots hardware in Plano, Fastenal, Grainger, Mcmaster and no luck so far.
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Buy a longer stud, cut to size, clean up threads?
What have others done? I don't know what project you have going on (forget, and I'm too lazy to look back), but surely you're not the only one on the planet that has done what you're trying to do? (if so, props. and good luck)
I've actually gone down that route, and nothing is close enough. If the piece I found is long enough it's usually the unthreaded center section that makes it longer not the long threaded end. Most people that have done what I'm doing had these pieces as part of a kit. I'm starting to suspect they were specially machined for this kit only.
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Ouch. All I can say is either contact the kit company or get ghetto and use some washers as spacers if you can (shouldn't be an issue if it's an intake manifold). Or get a bolt and a cheap open-ended wrench to grind down and make it work. I had to do that to get my FM manifold on and off - it was still tight, about 1/4 of a turn at a time, but infinitely better than trying to use a nonmodified wrench on one particular nut.Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
I usually put the thread-chaser on the stud/bolt first, then back it off after I cut, but I've used a spare nut in a pinch too.
You may try calling McMaster-Carr. I have gotten screws from them that were not listed on the website by calling and asking.
Are you replacing the one in the pic? If you are I think you could just run a die down it and clean up the treads. It does not look that bad. I am sure a new one would be better but if you can't find one.
Unfortunately that one is not mine, someone on the board was nice enough to take a pic of a spare they had. I picked up the phone and called the places I listed above and no one has one. I may have found someone that has some spares in Houston though so thinking I'm gonna go that route. Last resort is just to get a threaded rod and ghetto fab something. I'm not in a huge rush anyway.
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