DIY intake.

[BFPW]

didn't, the wires are taped in a group, cut it open then retape after removing the wires. also remove the intake air temp wires with you. you are turning one taped up group of wires and making 2, very simple. the wires are coming from under the intake manifold.

So the car comes from the factory with enough wiring? That's news to me, thanks! How well did your intake setup work over stock?

[jeff_man]

So the car comes from the factory with enough wiring? That's news to me, thanks! How well did your intake setup work over stock?

less heat from header, car bogs at a stop as there is less air in the intake to suck up but after moving when you stomp on it the throttle response is a lot better

[gabkwong]

This is for NB1. I have the MonsterFlow cross tube/filter/air box. Using the OBDII, even in cool 70 degree overcast days with car crusing at 60MPH, the intake sensor temp reads at least 10 degree higher than the ambient temp! Stopping at the light for more than a couple of minutes, it easily go up more than 20 degree more than the ambient temp. I takes more than a few miles of driving at 30 to 40 mph before the intake temp starts to drop. In the stop and go city traffic that means that the in take temp always run more than 20 degree above the ambient temp with my setup even in a very mild day. Roughly, I am losing about 3% of my hp due to the under hoop temp. In the dog days of summer with a/c at full blast, who knows how much power is lost to the under the hoop heat!!

I than start to experiment with insulating the cross tube with some Thermo King insulating foam with foil backing. I wrap everything double layers. This foam has a R value of 3. I should get a theoretical R value of 6 by double layered. I than ran the same 'unscientific test', The result was pretty much the same! The only difference is that it take longer for the temp to rise while sitting idle. Once everything is heat soaked, it just take as long to get them cool again.

I than read a lot of the posts on the pointy board and talk to several people on this board. I was almost ready to gut everything I have and do the mod Jeff-man had. I than came across a thread about the MonsterFlow cold box is actually NOT air tight and let in a lot of hot air from under the hood. I than use some foam to seal off all the 'holes' and only allow the air to come in from behind the headlight and the gap between the headlight and the radiator. I also put a strip of foam to seal off the space between the hoop and L fender. To isolate the heat from the black color hood, I put another thin layer of foam between the top of the cool box and the underside of the hood. Now the air box is air tight except drawing air from the front. Wow, what a different. The throttle response gets much sharper. More important is that I lose the stumble and sudden surge of power from a standing start. I don't think I get more hp or torque. I think they are just more linear and comes on at lower rpm. I can now accelerate with authority even on my top (5th) gear! The only down side is that the car is louder.

I will do more testing and get more data when the outside temp is higher. Right now the setup is very ghetto looking. I will take some pics once I get it to look better.

[MoonieGT]

Thanks Jeffman. I thought there was an easy NB setup. My issue will be whether or not I can fit a filter in that location... I have the oil filter relocated to that general area...

[jeff_man]

get a 90* silicon tub and the smallest k&n cone air that will fit over the end of your maf. less then $100 and that is still cheaper then any kit.

[MoonieGT]

Do you have tO get one of those breather filters to replace the hose that goes frome the valve cover to intake tube?

[jeff_man]

Do you have tO get one of those breather filters to replace the hose that goes frome the valve cover to intake tube?

$5 at o'reilly, and good for 1/4hp

[Matt V]

I would consider this intake. It's very decently priced and it has an actual heat shield.

http://www.rspeed.net/product_p/na20211060.htm