Here is an idea.
Thanks.
That TDR Heat Shield looks likes/sounds like the regular heat wrap that is used on Turbo kits except that it drapes over the factory header covers instead of wrapping it entirely.
I was looking around and it doesn't seem like there are many intake kits and performance kits available for the miata. If heat is an issue then I might consider making my own cold air intake out of leftover intercooler piping.
How come all the other intake kits seem to have the air filter located around that same spot and not somewhere else?
In the Garage:
2011 Ford Shelby GT500 SVTPP - Weekend Warrior
1994 Mazda RX-7 - Project/Track Car
1999 Mazda Miata - Daily
A lot of them take-up the air through vents in the turn signals and build a small box behind the headlight. JRJ512 knows what he's talking about, as that's his car in the pic.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
There are a few differences between TDR Heat Shield and header wrap. Header wrap lays against the pipe and is basically heat resistant woven cloth. The TDR Heat Shield is a metalized blanket stuffed with extremely heat resistant padding and leaves an air pocket between the header and the shield. Air is the best insulator. You can actually touch the heat shield after the car has been warmed up. (Except the metal badge!) Many folks attest to the quality and performance of this product. I personally have tried header wrap and it ruined the header (rusted out) and the wrap falls apart in short order. Also it is a PITA to install. The TDR heat shield installs in a few minutes.
I use to worry about money; but then realized I don't HAVE anything to worry about.
Welcome to the forum!
And it's still worth less than the window sticker price, much less the window sticker price + all the other money thrown at it...
As for the Shelbys holding/gaining value... I wouldn't bet on it. 7500 is a BIG production run for a "limited production" car. Heck, Porsche only made 1890 996 GT3s, all of which originally stickered over $100k, and you can buy pristine low mileage ones all day long for half that now. Time marches on, and manufacturers keep upping the ante with each new generation of their halo cars. That deflates the prices of the previous generations.
Nice cars. Horrible investments. Sad to see that they'll never get used as intended.
Iain
"We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing." - George Bernard Shaw
I have to agree with MOST cars being a poor investment. Most of the cars you see on BJ going for $$$ somebody spent $$$$ getting them ready. A few months ago I saw a very low mileage C4 ZR1 Vette (King of the hill when they came out) sell for about 1/3 MSRP on BJ. Most cars that get put in storage end up in very bad shape. Rats get in and eat lots of the car, and the rest rots.
But still go with your gut and do what you think is right, we could all be wrong and the Cobra could be the 1 in 1,000 that go up a lot in value. Me, I would drive it until the wheels fell off then put it in storage. (My S2000 CR is 1 of 700, and 1 of 200 in Blue, over 2 years)
I will say that the Cobra checks all the boxes for a collector car. Except being pegged as a collector car from the start (how many people are putting them in a bubble). A lot of the high dollar collector cars were duds on the new car lot (S2000 CR checks this box), they got no love until 20 years later, or required a secrete code to order.
The '93 Cobra R (107 made) has held up well. It's worth about what it cost to buy one. You'll have to ignore the "opportunity cost" of the money over 12 years.
The '95 Cobra R is worth ~60% of the purshase price (MSRP + tax).
The '00 Cobra is also worth ~60% of the purchase price (MSRP + sales tax).
I'd say that the Ford GT will be worth about 60% of it's purchase price in ~5 years.
A 1965 289 Mustang sold new for about $2,500. A Condition 2 car (New car condition) is currently valued at $22k - $28k. This tracks almost exactly with inflation, as a new comparable-level Mustang stickers from about $26k. For comparison, $2,500 invested in 10-Year T-bills would now be worth $46k at 6% and $93k at the actual average of 7.5%. Clearly, while the price of the Mustang is now significantly higher than it was in 1965, its value is about the same, and its value as an investment is laughable. Keep in mind that this example does not deduct anything for cost of ownership, so the total value of the car (from an investment point of view) will be quite a bit lower.
A motor vehicle as investment is a little different from many other things, as part of its value is its functionality. Paintings, ancient coins, gold, etc do not have to be maintained in operable condition, and are much simpler in construction so they are much easier to maintain for a long period of time. That said, the first question to answer is how much does it cost to own a collector car for 50 years?
Anyone care to give examples of cars that have become an investment if purchased new? What additional costs are there to maintain the vehicle until it appreciates in value? How long until it appreciates in value?
I still say cars are a very rarely a financial investment. Drive it and enjoy it.
because people are stupid
here's a better idea
that is my free (cutting and using lefter over parts) intake. i had a nicer one on my other car before i went force that was a 90* silicoses tube and cone intake. it fit better. $100 in parts to make your own if you just buy off the shelf stuff, can get as low as $20 like i did shopping around for the parts on sale.
Last edited by jeff_man; 06-03-2011 at 09:02 PM.
Either way, even with the change in inflation and all, I still don't mind keeping it as a collectable. Plus with a signature from the designer himself it should add on extra value.... think of it like a comic book having someone like Stan Lee sign it. Value is all based on perception and in my eyes, modding it lowers the value of the car ( since on BJ all the stock cars with matching numbers sell for higher than the modded ones ).
There have been cars that retain thier value very well such as: Toyota twin tubro Supra and AC Shelby Cobra (roadster)
For the intake, Jeff_man, did you have to extend out that cable for the MAF sensor or did it reach without any issues?
In the Garage:
2011 Ford Shelby GT500 SVTPP - Weekend Warrior
1994 Mazda RX-7 - Project/Track Car
1999 Mazda Miata - Daily
Very true... which is why to buy "new" doesn't net returns. To allow the depreciation to take place, plus mods that you favor to be done on someone elses tab and then buy when they grow tired of it or upgrade is key. A car purchased for half of it's window sticker price originally and still hold that value after 16 years has something to be said for the point I was making. Cars in general ARE NOT good investments, however there are cases where you can "net". Upkeep and maintenance not included, that is a given even with the throw away cars we are offered today.
I use to worry about money; but then realized I don't HAVE anything to worry about.
[QUOTE=For the intake, Jeff_man, did you have to extend out that cable for the MAF sensor or did it reach without any issues?[/QUOTE]
all the wires come from the intake manifold and run across the front of the block. all you do is cut the loom and tape. split the 3 or 4 pig tail groups then retape. there is enough wire from factory.
Jeff_man,
I was putting together piping for the pipe to due a test fit and I couldnt help but notice that you are missing a small sensor that connects between the manifold and MAF sensor or is it out of view?
By the way, I was wondering is it normal to have a lot of heat transfer up through my shifter? I realized that when I drive for a bit (30 minutes or so) my shifter starts to warm up and will continue to transfer the heat to the metal shift knob. Was curious if this is common among miatas.
Thanks
In the Garage:
2011 Ford Shelby GT500 SVTPP - Weekend Warrior
1994 Mazda RX-7 - Project/Track Car
1999 Mazda Miata - Daily
It's pretty common for that to be a warm spot...the rubber shifter boots tear and crack after a few years. Pull the center console (4 or 5 screws) and you will see the large shifter boot is more than likely completely ripped, the lower boot under the large one is also probably torn as well.
2013 Mazda2 slushbox daily
1993 Miata (future exocet donor)
If you have a metal shift knob, it'll get hot in a lot of cars. My NC does it. Trannys generate heat, heat rises...
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
i just replied then remembered your selling your car and we talked in person about the intake.
Yup, trying to sell the Miata and decided that I am just going to run the 7 for a daily (have to put my money into a new fence due to the recent storm activities). On a side note, for the miata, I just got a replacement filter for the intake a while back. Plus, I have been really busy with work so I haven't had much time to mess around with relocating the piping to the other side with my left over parts in my garage.
In the Garage:
2011 Ford Shelby GT500 SVTPP - Weekend Warrior
1994 Mazda RX-7 - Project/Track Car
1999 Mazda Miata - Daily