Brake fluid flush....
Planning on doing a brake job this weekend and was needing to know about completely flushing out the old fluid and replacing. The stuff in there right now is black as the night! I was guessing an easy way is to open a bleeder valve and pump the brakes...as the fluid comes out..keep filling the reservoir until the flow is clean..am I on the right track or way off?
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
I would take a turkey baster and suck out the crap in the reservoir first, then refill that with clean juice. Other than that, you're on the right track. It's just like bleeding brakes. I've done mine solo with a Mityvac before, but the rear brakes were a little hard to get started.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Well i will have a little helper to pump the brakes..I have a little setup for him because he's too short to reach the pedals. Do I need to bleed all 4 brakes?
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
Yes, all four.
And the turkey baster for the reservoir as stated, but take it one step further and physically wipe as much dirt out of it as possible.
You are talking, wipe out the reservoir?
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
Yep... wipe the master cylinder reservoir and bleed all 4 brakes.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
If you just fill the reservoir with new fluid, and there's a good amount of crap in it, you would be filling a dirty reservoir with fresh fluid...a bit counterproductive if you think about it. It will work fine and probably never give you any issues, but eh.
If you just take a turkey baster, you will get a good bit of the crud out of the master cylinder reservoir, but not nearly as much as a cloth on the tip of your finger or dowel/stick/whatever (should be lint-free cloth). Better than not doing it at all, but at that point you're >so< close to getting that much more crap out of the reservoir...Make sure not to get any brake fluid in the bulb part of the baster, just FYI.
EDIT: And if it's not obvious, do NOT touch the brakes in any way when the reservoir is that low to wipe it out. Don't open any bleeders, don't pump/press the brake pedal, nothing.
Last edited by Rob®; 07-12-2011 at 09:58 AM.
Ok cool, thanks guys! One more thing, where is the best place to put the jack stands? I have to use my standard jack to get the car up enough to use my floor jack. I was thinking to place them on the frame..near where i jack it up. Thoughts?
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
My car has been on jack stands multiple times for over a year at a time with the stands where you're saying - once for 2 years straight. It has been on them with them in that spot in the front since last September. There is no sign of damage at all in those spots.
Very cool, i was leery about where to put them but now i know. I think i'll get me one of those rolling seats to make the job easier than sitting on the garage floor!
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
Speed Bleeders help. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Some of us that change brake fluid every 6 months or so have built one of there.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
Most people will tell you NOT to use those rails, just FYI, since they aren't technically "frame" rails. So take that into consideration.
Here's a link/pdf to do it properly: http://www.metzair.com/downloads/Raise_Your_Miata.pdf
Great info Cone & Rob...the jack stand info is really helpful..looks like I need to add a low profile jack to my tool collection! I guessing those "speed bleeders" are by order only.
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
Drive onto pieces of 2x4 first. Usually gets the car high enough for a regular hydraulic jack to fit under the car. Unless you need a new jack anyway.
Pressure bleeder FTW! There's a link altiain created somewhere showing how to make one.
Now that's and idea..no i don't need a new jack, 2 more jack stands but my floor jack is fine!Originally Posted by Rob®
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
Cool, cool..i'll take a look for it. Does the tube in a jar of brake fluid while bleeding help out?
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
I'm sure it doesn't need to be said, but in the interest of safety, do NOT get under the car while it is on 2x4s...
Found it! - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/158355/1999-mazda-miata-mx-5/page-10
Yes, the tube in the jar of old fluid will prevent air being sucked back in to the system.
I've never used a pressure bleeder but I can assure you that Speedbleeders are great! Once you have them installed, it's no big deal to bleed all four brakes and the clutch in under 45 minutes total *by yourself*. If you get the Speed Bleeder Bag while you're at it, cleanup/disposal is quick, clean, and easy too. Btw, I don't know your experience level and perhaps a newbie will read this thread to learn, but NEVER let brake fluid even touch your paint. If it does, stop whatever you are doing and clean it off immediately. It can permanently ruin your paint in no time.
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