Clutch issues (again)

[MadMonkey]

A few days ago my clutch started feeling slightly different... it's engaging with a jerk (or a jerk is engaging it ). It's not horrible, but it's definitely different which bothers me. It still disengages fine, but it feels like there's a teensy bit more pressure needed to pop it into gear.. again, not bad but worrisome.

I looked at the master, and found a little bit of fluid underneath it, however the reservoir is still just above max, so if it's a leak it's a very slow one.

Could this be something as simple as adjusting the engagement point, or does it sound like the master (or slave) is going out? I just dealt with this a couple of years ago so it's aggravating.

[Rob®]

A leak is a leak. If your master is leaking, no matter how little, it is leaking. Not good.

Slaves on these cars are crap. They need to be replaced fairly frequently from my experience. I consider them a wear item personally (like belts, hoses, fuel filter, etc). I would be happy to only replace a slave every "couple of years." Point being, chances are yours is on its way out. Have you checked the boot to see if it's leaking? If you haven't replaced it in a couple of years, I'd be kind of shocked to hear that it's not.

[MadMonkey]

Maintenance is my archenemy

I just got home, so I'll go fiddle with it in a bit. Update though... I turned my music off so I could listen for weird sounds, and as I was leaving a shop I could hear a momentary scrape when I shifted, like metal against metal (as it engaged). Do you think the actual clutch is going out? I've had it for 6 years, starting around 136k I believe and now at 171k, and never had actual clutch problems (just the cylinders).

[russian]

its all because you're a pedo :p

[black roadster]

A leak means air can get in and affect the pressure. Try pumping the pedal and seeing if you still get the grinding sound. (Bet you don't)

Rule out the simple stuff first.

1. Replace the clutch master if it is leaking. It's a simple job.
2. See if clutch slave is leaking by removing boot. If it's wet, it's leaking and needs to be replaced. Clutch and master often fail consecutively.
3. Once you know the hydraulics of the clutch system are sound and you still have a noise, try replacing the fluids with a quality GL4.
4. Might check your shift boots while you're at it as they are notorious for deteriorating.
5. If you are still having problems, it could be the clutch or transmission.

[Rob®]

With only about 40k on the clutch, I kind of doubt it's bad already. Unless you abused the crap out of it, it's been maladjusted (I'd think it'd have crapped the bed by now though), or you bought a super-cheap one (again, I think it'd have been dead already), it sounds like something simple.

Like black roadster and I said, if you know your master is leaking, replace that. Then proceed if needed. Not to spend money for you, but if you're replacing the master, and most likely the slave, I would consider replacing the rubber clutch line at the same time. You'd be in there, you'd need to bleed the system anyway, and it would prevent any future headaches of that rubber line going bad.

[MadMonkey]

Oops, I meant had the MIATA for 6 years, not the clutch... it could potentially have over 170k on it if the previous owner never changed it.

[POS Racing]

If the car has 170,000 miles on the original clutch it may time for a new clutch....

Since your down in Austin you may want to contact these guys - http://www.automotive-specialist.com/

[Rob®]

Haha oh. I would still follow black roadster's outline first. Even if your clutch is done, a leaky master and/or slave needs to be replaced.

Or if you're feeling froggy, dig in and replace it all now so you don't have to worry down the road.

[MadMonkey]

If the car has 170,000 miles on the original clutch it may time for a new clutch....

Since your down in Austin you may want to contact these guys - http://www.automotive-specialist.com/

I've heard they're good, but the prices seem high (and I'm working part time right now ). I'll see if it's better for the Miata (I was calling about the MPV).

Haha oh. I would still follow black roadster's outline first. Even if your clutch is done, a leaky master and/or slave needs to be replaced.

Or if you're feeling froggy, dig in and replace it all now so you don't have to worry down the road.

I might do that if I can scrape the funds together. Clutch doesn't seem to be too high and I know I can get (aftermarket) cylinders fairly cheap.

[black roadster]

I would consider replacing the rubber clutch line at the same time. You'd be in there, you'd need to bleed the system anyway, and it would prevent any future headaches of that rubber line going bad.

Good point. We have a new improved clutch line at TDR that also replaces the obnoxious coiled section of the clutch line. Makes slave swaps and bleeding much easier too.

[Rob®]

Your link takes me to the older/original short version of the clutch line, just FYI.

[SirHustlerEsq]

I think the Brakebest slave cylinders last as long, if not longer than the stock parts.

[black roadster]

Your link takes me to the older/original short version of the clutch line, just FYI.

Same price and part number.

[MadMonkey]

I looked at the slave today... boot is dry, outside of the body is rusty, and there is fluid around the clutch.. lever? I guess you would call it. It's actually fairly soaked. What would that indicate?

[Rob®]

Did you peel back the boot or squeeze it? Unless it's been leaking a lot for awhile the outside of the boot could very easily be dry. Peeling it back will get you a definite answer, but squeezing it will usually squirt a drop or two, letting you know it's bad. If you squeeze it and nothing comes out, then you need to peel the boot off/back to get a better look.

What kind of fluid is on the clutch fork? Brake fluid? Oil from a bad rear main seal? Trans fluid?