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Thread: What Motor oil do you use?

  1. #21

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    Rotella is the Brawndo of motor oils...

    '94 Black & Black & Tan
    '99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...

    Dyno Days
    8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
    8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno

    Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds

  2. #22

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    All this talk about fancy-schmancy multi-vis oils is just marketing mumbo jumbo. Single vis worked for decades in Grandpa's tractor and shrimp boat.

    I use the O'Reilley's house brand 30-wt in everything. Its super-cheap in the 55 gal drum. Once a year, I just line up everything I own with an engine and drain them all, then pump 'em full with a hand pump.

    The used stuff comes in handy to edge my yard so I never need to weed eat, and no wasting time trying to recycle that nasty crap.
    Polished Turd Racing

    Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."

  3. #23

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    The zinc, the phos, the resistance to fuel shear, the reality that is has similar composition to the $50/g AMSoil, and the very light engine wear I've seen while using this oil. There are other good oils like M1 0w30 and the exotics like Amsoil and Redline, but they are at least double the price and don't handle fuel contamination as well from other UOA's.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  4. #24

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    Update.......

    Did the oil change this past weekend, went with the "WIX" filter and Rotella T5. It was $16 a gal at walmart. With all this heat I wanted to go with the T6 but couldn't find it at Oreilly's or Wallyworld. Where do ya'll find it? I still have that tick(it's normal) but the engine seems to be running smoother. Hell that's probably just my selective hearing!
    Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!

  5. #25

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    Wal-Mart always has the T6 here. If your's didn't I'd guess they were temporaily out and awaiting a delivery.
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  6. #26

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    Second what jeepin said - I saw it at the Saginaw Walmart last night. The T6 was ~$21 IIRC.

  7. #27

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    I wouldn't buy the T6 for a naturally aspirated car, and I'd still go 7500 miles on the white bottle.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  8. #28
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    OK, I'm drinking the T5 Rotella kool-aid as of today.....it better be good, or someone will have to die.

  9. #29

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    lol ... i'll have to try the T5. i've been using castrol syntec or edge since i got the car 2yrs ago.
    - luis
    '99 NB1

  10. #30

    Default Best oil? FREE G-Oil!!

    Link TCB!!!

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr brg View Post
    Try a .032" oil feed restrictor, I bet the problem goes away. My turbo did this a few times before I put the restrictor in it. The seals will leak with too much pressure, then seal as they warm-up and start spinning. Been there, done that.
    hm I have had oil consumption issues as well and I thought it was a lower end issue but I checked the compression yesterday and it was pretty much 180psi across the board. I also had the turbo off and checked not many miles ago and it was fine as well so I will try switching from Mobile 1 to Rotella and installing the oil feed restrictor. mr BRG where did you get yours at?
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  12. #32

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    http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=BCS is one place (where I indirectly got mine, for what it's worth).

    I'm actually surprised companies sell/recommend turbos without restrictors - it's been "common knowledge" for a almost a decade now. I guess technically since not every car needs them, but I can't tell you which ones don't. (Even most journal bearing turbos should have a .060" restrictor inline)

  13. #33

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    Thanks Rob I'll give them a shot. Mine started out as an FMIII so who knows what they were doing. That said I have had this set up for a long time and it didn't start using oil until recently and all of a sudden which made me believe it was the motor. I guess it could still be the turbo oil seal but I haven't gotten that far yet.

    BTW I'm going to stop off on the way home and get me some Rotella!
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob® View Post
    http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=BCS is one place (where I indirectly got mine, for what it's worth).

    I'm actually surprised companies sell/recommend turbos without restrictors - it's been "common knowledge" for a almost a decade now. I guess technically since not every car needs them, but I can't tell you which ones don't. (Even most journal bearing turbos should have a .060" restrictor inline)
    Yeah, I was skeptical until I had a conversation with a Garrett engineer on a forum who said they were absolutely required.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  15. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin96M View Post
    Thanks Rob I'll give them a shot. Mine started out as an FMIII so who knows what they were doing.
    The first turbo bits I put on my car back in 2003 was an FMII kit. Before I even put it on I got a restrictor for it since it was already ingrained in my head at that point. But that was back when they were still "debatable."

    And I fully believe that your car is/was fine without that restrictor - that's the very reason it was such a hot topic so long ago. Most people put them in and their issues would go away, whereas a select few would never have the issues without them. The problem was so bad with freer-flowing exhausts that at first people were claiming you needed a fair amount of backpressure in the downpipe to prevent it...then it was discovered/proven that you needed an appropriately sized restrictor in the feed line., whether you had seal issues or not.

  16. #36

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    I am also a rotella user. I put it in the car and in the bike. Love it.

  17. #37

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    Rotella all the way for me now. Since I went to that and the new filter, she's running great and sounds smooth as silk! I know it didn't fix that damn tapping but I have not heard it at all even after running her hard!
    Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!

  18. #38
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    rotella makes bad ass oil. i've used it in diesels for many years. for my miata though, i run 5w20 royal purple and a royal purple filter. and i never i have any issues with lifter tick. just converted the new project miata (aka bitch car) from the casterol gtx 10w30 the previous owner was so fond of. (btw never use that crap. bitch car's valve train was/is covered in gunk) before i did the oil change i ran half a can of sea foam in the oil, and fed a full can down a vaccume line. poured the other half can in the fuel. drove the piss out of it blowing white smoke every where for about 20 minutes. drain the hot oil over night. and toped off with rp 5w20 and a new rp oil filter.

    side note: holy crap seafoam is magic in a can. my car ran like total ass before. would not idle, and just ran rough as hell. after the seafoam treatment it idles fine and runs much smoother. finally some snake oil that actually works.

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