Garage door insulation before/after

[Radio-Active]

Now you all have me trying to figure out how to vent my garage. Since there is a room above it I can't go up.....hmmmmm

They make exhaust fans that go through the wall as well.
Linkie:
Linkie#2:

[Rebel]

$300+? I think I'll continue to live without for now.

[Nexus Flux]

I insulated my garage door with these, R-Matte Plus 3 R-5.0 3/4 in. 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulation. They have aluminum one both sides to help with radiant heat, and the way I have them mounted ot the door panels, they have a 3/4" air gap between them and the outside door surface to further increas the R value. Install was a bit of a pain, but that was by my choice, since I over engineer stuff. And cost was about $40 with a aluminum straight edge and utility knife+blades.

One garage wall faces the South, and the garage door faces West, the other walls are shared with my neighbor's garage and my house. The bedroom is on top of the garage.

Temps have gone down from the completly unbearable to the OK and comftable. Say 110-115*F to ~95*F with no car in the garage. That's measured off the garage door remote on the wall. The bedroom temps have also gone down significatly.

[Flyin96M]

- I've been back and forth on completely enclosing it since it'd only be a single ~3-foot door I'd need to build. Once I get to the remodel part of the garage, I will actually research pros/cons of completely enclosing it.

Since you have a gas water heater by code you can not enclose it. You could install a door but it would have to have to be a louvered one so it would not accomplish what you want. BTW if the pilot light goes out the gas will automaticly shut off to avoid just what you are talking about, but it does make for a nice cold shower in the am.

If you add a vent fan make sure duct it to the outside or attic space to make sure the exhaust air goes where it is suppose to.

[OZMDD]

I love my old school attic fan in my garage. I can crack the garage door a few inches and completely exchange all the air in my garage in under 5 min. Great for fumes and solvents, hot cars, etc.

[motorollow]

I love my old school attic fan in my garage. I can crack the garage door a few inches and completely exchange all the air in my garage in under 5 min. Great for fumes and solvents, hot cars, etc.

This is the way to vent your garage. You have to move a lot of air fast.

[HudsonHawk]

I just drop the access ladder to the space above the garage and open the door a crack. Heat rises. It goes up into the attic and out the vents while fresh air comes in under the door.

[sammm]

I just drop the access ladder to the space above the garage and open the door a crack. Heat rises. It goes up into the attic and out the vents while fresh air comes in under the door.

I keep my attic access door propped open (around 12"-15") all summer long to help draw heat out of the garage. My garage door faces north, but I have 2 windows on the west (probably un-insulated) side.

[Rob®]

Since you have a gas water heater by code you can not enclose it. You could install a door but it would have to have to be a louvered one so it would not accomplish what you want.

Thanks for that. Little less research I'll need to do when the time comes.

[Ynah]

This is seemingly an old thread, but I'll add my two cents.



About 10 years ago I added styrofoam panels to my aluminum overhead shop doors. My shop is 24 x 36. Our climate is generally warm (San Diego inland). In the summer the air temps will hit close to 108 for a week or so at a time and in the winter, the daytime lows might be in the 40's occasionally and night-time lows in the mid 30's occasionally.

I have two OH doors (one is a double-wide and the other is a single-wide) and both face West. The single-wide door has a single vertical metal stiffener in the middle. The double-wide has 3 stiffeners. The stiffners are exposed and reduce the benefit of the insulation a bit. I bought either 3/4 or 1" 4x8' sheets and cut them with a drywall knife. The door panels had a horizontal lip , so I could stuff the panels inside of the lip and not need any adhesive. I had to slightly squash the styrofoam on the edges to get it to slip under the lip. The shop walls have 3-1/2" fiberglass batts and the ceiling has 6" FG batts. So the OH doors were the biggest factor for heat gain/loss in the workshop.

Adding the Styrofoam makes a big difference both in the winter and summer. I'm glad that I did that.

BTW, I really like the looks of the foil backed panels from Charlie Hinton like this https://mechanicguides.com/best-gara...nsulation-kit/ I'm wondering if both sides were foil lined or not. If not, I'm wondering if they might have been more effective with the foil towards the summer heat-source.