Reply With QuoteMS cam, square top intake, and a standalone. Might be a PITA come inspection time, but it'll make a lot of power and you won't have to deal with that pesky check engine light for most of the year...Originally Posted by gabkwong
I have a 99 w RB header, high flow cat, bolar exhaust. Dynoject 124 at the wheels. What are left to do are square top intake and MS cam? I don't want FI. I would get a NC before I do that.
Gabriel
MS cam, square top intake, and a standalone. Might be a PITA come inspection time, but it'll make a lot of power and you won't have to deal with that pesky check engine light for most of the year...
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
square top and MS cam would get you over 150whp easily with a standalone.
Post the dyno, Rick!
...and here's the dyno graph:
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
The 1.6 plot is mine by the way. With factory computer and catalytic converter the car last came in at 106/97 on a Dynojet. (GSS Speed Shop during the dyno day last winter).
And on installing the wide band - there is no flippin way I'd have wired it the way it needed to be wired based on how the instructions were written. My brother was working with me on it and he's an electrician and even though there were two sets of eyes and we followed the instructions we still managed to get it wrong.
Chris
A ground is more than a ground when we're talking about precision instruments.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
Yeah, we did what they said but not what they meant.
It's all good. I'll run it in this weekend and send over the log.
Chris
So what do you recommend for wideband grounding? I have had issues with mine off and on for years now.
Where are y'all finding Squaretops?
And what exactly is a Squaretop intake??
A separate wire for the heater ground and signal ground to the same piece of metal on the intake plenum. If you don't do this with the gauge ground then you have to adjust the output range. A lot of people don't think this matters, those same people don't have accurate outputs. You can share grounds with dumb electronics, you cannot share them with anything that measures voltage.
Electrons coming from the block through the shared wire means voltage is off-set. If you have a light on a ground wire, then it's pulling lets say .3-volts through the ground wire. Now, 10:1 AFR is no longer 0 volts, it's .3 volts; a .3 volt shift is .6 AFR leaner on your LC-1 output. However it's not that simple. Many Miata electronics run pulse-width-modulation, so that means you not only see the stepped output, but you see an oscillation in the ground circuit which causes an oscillation in the signal. I saw a car once where they guy used a shared-ground with the dimmer switch, so when he'd dim the lights, the oscillation would stop, when he'd make them brighter it would cause wild fluctuations in the AFR gauge.
It's a common misconception that electricity "flows" from the battery to the ground. Ask yourself, is an electron a positive or negative charge? Suddenly, ground priority makes sense.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
A Euro manifold with larger runners. Good luck finding them.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Cliff's notes -
Extend each of the following wires so they're long enough to reach the hoist loop on the intake side of the head
heater ground
signal ground
gauge ground
solder all three to a single ring terminal
install ring terminal under a bolt on the engine with no other grounds present.
Chris
Has anyone figured out how to swap a stock 01+ engine with standalone computer into a 90-97 yet? How hard is it to wire up the Megasquirt with VVT control?
Thanks,
Alan
94 Miata R package RPF1 195 RS-R RB FSB FCM Bilstein Ebay Coilover 550/350
91 Civic Si Daily Beater
"Its more fun to drive a slow car fast, than it is to drive a fast car slowly".
I haven't done it yet, but...
add 2 wires for sequential fuel
add 3 wires for VVT electronics
run or extend the 3 CAS wires to the factory hall sensor
add 2 wires for the front cam sensor (or mod the CAS to trigger at cam comp TDC and build a new harness for the hall sensor)
I would also convert from the funky-shaped crank trigger wheel to a 32-1 wheel for the added resolution and to kill spark-scatter because I'm going to tune the VVT engines closer to "the edge" than my turbo car. You also don't want to waste your time with stock coils.
I plan to rewire my turbo car in the next few years and plan to swap heads on that car too. A buddy in Cali picked up 30wtq with the VVT head.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
Thought I read somewheres (MS manual I believe) that the LC1 should be grounded to the same place the ecu is grounded for optimal results.
The same piece of metal, don't stack the grounds.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
Does anyone have the dimensions of the runners on the squaretop mani?
- luis
'99 NB1
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