So thanks in advance for reading and helping me out here.
Awhile back I was coming out of a left turn underpass and The rear of my car slid out a tad and tagged the curb with the passenger rear wheel. It didn't feel like a hard hit, but it did leave some scratches on the wheel.
A day or so later I noticed a faint vibration coming from the rear pass side of car. Not enough to feel, but easily heard. Took it in to have wells balanced and rotated. Swapped the rear right wheel with the front right. The vibration remained in the rear. the wheel itself is not bent.
So, time goes on and vibration gets more intense, now I can feel it, not just hear it. So I decided to jack up car with both rear wheels in the air. Took off wheels, brakes and rotors.
The right rear rotor has a ton of scratches in it, but only on the inside surface. I will post picture soon.
Is it possible that the rotor is bent? Or is it more likely that the hub or axle is bent, causing the rotor to not spin straight?
I also did another test, putting the car in gear while running, allowing both hubs to spin. I used my had to lightly grab the lug bolts to try and stop the spinning. The rear right hub stops spinning very easily, without making any grinding noise. When I let go it doesn't want to start spinning again unless I give it help. Feels like the gears are worn.
On the driver side rear it is completely different story. It is much more difficult to stop or slow the spinning, and it makes an obvious grinding sound. I only tried that side once for a very short time since I didn't want to mess it up.
no LSD btw.
Do I need to rebuild the rear end, or should I swap out the entire diff, axles, hubs, from a donor car?
When the passenger side rear bearing went out in my 94 it made a constant RRRrrrrRRRRrrrrRRR noise while the car was moving. The RRRrrrrRRRRrrrrRRR noise would speed up and slow down with the speed of the car.
The noise from my car speeds up and slows down in conjunction with the speed of the car.
Is it possible to destroy a bearing by hitting a curb like I did? I was probably doing 40 mph when I side swiped the curb.
Would a bad bearing really cause the rotor to become etched on the inside?
Yep crack a curb can kill a bearing.
The brake issue is more that likely a hung slider pin issue when was the last time you lubed the slider pins? Also your noise could be the brake dragging.
Brake stuff - http://www.miata.net/garage/brakepad.html
I bought the car last august. The brakes were done a few months before that, however that doesn't mean the slider pins were lubes. I did notice that the pads were not worn evenly on that rear pass side. The rear driver side pads are evenly worn.
The rear pass bearing was also redone last year.
I plan to change the brakes, lines, and rotors now that I have the car up on stands, so I will lube it all with grease.
Should I go ahead and complete the brake job, hoping the vibration goes away with re-bedding the new pads on new rotors. Or should I start with new bearings as well
Doing the rear brakes is way easier that doing the bearings.
BTDT
Don't forget to fully understand how to do the rear brakes since the following applies:
Replacing the rear pads is equally as simple as the front pads. The main difference is in retracting the rear caliper pistons. Note: Improperly retracting the rear caliper pistons could result in caliper failure and costly repairs.
Any comment on how the passenger rear hub stops spinning when I have it in gear, after grabbing it with my hand as mentioned in post #1.