Reply With QuoteRosenthal/Arlington Mazda,
http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...KMK001%29.html
See "Related Products" tab for Thermostat & gasket.
I should get a new thermostat? Yeah, I was just looking at radiator hoses. I'll get those too. What about heater hoses? Should I? And how easy are they to replace?Originally Posted by 00MugenS2
Rosenthal/Arlington Mazda,
http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...KMK001%29.html
See "Related Products" tab for Thermostat & gasket.
'99 Emerald Green - 2015 NASA Texas TTE Season Champion (showing up is really 100% of it)
Yes to all of those questions. The heater hoses tend to spring leaks when they are the most inconvenient, so you should definitely replace those now while the coolant needs to be drained anyway. They aren't the easiest water hoses to install, but they aren't bad. Might want to look into the silicone ones so you don't have to ever worry about them again (same with the main rad hoses).
I'd highly recommend a Mazda thermostat over a local autoparts store's offerings.
Awesome! Thanks guys. Adding that to the list. I'm going to try to order everything tonight.
I am getting the silicone versions of the 3 main radiator hoses and 2 heater hoses. What about the other, smaller hoses? Should I replace those as well? Looking at Rosenthal there are a lot of them.
It's never a bad idea to, especially considering the age of all of them (probably original from 1997), but most people don't until they have problems with them. Depends on how anal you want to get with preventative maintenance.
I think I spent $300 on parts and bought breakfast for the crew that showed up at my house. The work included belts, hoses, WP, TB, new tensioners, valve cover gasket, spark plugs and wires.
I had torn down the engine before everyone arrived to make it easier. Having everything installed and ready for a test drive took a couple of hours max.
I completed a water pump replacement this weekend (along with all the other stuff - timing belt, tensioners, belts, thermostat, gaskets). I did it by myself and it took 7-8 hours. I think I could do it in half that time now. I went really slow reading and re-reading, labeled everything and took pictures. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. And as was mentioned, it is great bonding time with your miata.
I started the job this weekend and, frankly, didn't make much progress. Right now I'm stuck trying to get the crankshaft bolt loose. Any suggestions? I wish I had a better air compressor/impact wrench.
First, adjust the regulator for your compressor to about 115-120 psi. I know most budget impact guns are rated for 90 psi max, but this aught to get a few extra ft. lbs. of power into your impact.
Second, try to borrow a hard-hitting impact gun from a friend (or buy a bigger one for yourself).
If that fails, put the car in 3rd gear and set the e-brake pretty hard (to keep the engine from turning). Loosen with a breaker bar.
I have had mixed luck when I was in a jam by putting the closed (boxed) end of a wrench over a nut and hitting it with a mini-sledge for pseudo-impact gun effect. Maybe use that as a last resort.
1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!
Well, I feel like an idiot. I just realized I bought the Flyin' Miata tool just for this (http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...5-61000%20%20P). I'll give that a shot.
I've actually tried pretty much all those things already. 115psi (gun rated at 90psi). I think I need a bigger compressor. Mine probably doesn't put out enough CFM. Used 5th gear and tried a breaker bar. Tried breaker bar + mini sledge.
The CFM isn't going to make a difference when you are talking a couple hits from an impact. The CFM is the Cubic feet per minute that the pump adds air to the tank. When you are doing something that requires a continues supply of air, then you need a compressor with a CFM higher than the tool (Sanders, grinders, etc) so it can keep up. But an impact is a quick hit. If the tank has 115psi in it, you are going to get several hits of 100psi+ of air to the impact regardless of what CFM the pump is.
With that said, I will bet your issue is that your impact is garbage. I had a few different impacts that came with cheap CH packs of several air tools for 1 price. They sucked and wouldn't get anything off. I picked up a used Snap-On impact off of EBay and it made a world of difference.
That's probably it. I should keep an eye out for a good one on craigslist.
2013 Audi S4
1997 Montego Blue Miata
Pawn shops are usually a good place to pick up a used impact. Look for a truck brand (SnapOn/Mac/Matco/Cornwell) or you can't go wrong with an IR (Ingersoll-Rand). Stay away from Craftsman... this is one of those cases where they do not make a quality tool. If you never deal with Pawn Shops, you need to know that all the prices are negotiable. It shouldn't take much effort to get 25% knocked off the price.
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