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Thread: Any recomendations on where to get a Garrett turbo serviced?

  1. #1

    Default Any recomendations on where to get a Garrett turbo serviced?

    As the title says I'd like to get my turbo services as I know the oil seals are leaking and it has unknown mileage on it since I bought it used way back in 2003. I'd prefer local, but if there is a better place that requires shipping I'm fine with that as well.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  2. #2
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    Does FP (Forced Performance) service other turbos or just theirs?

  3. #3

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    Majestic turbo
    Wealth, power, and experience are apparently not enough to save us from social influences. Groupthink, as described by I.L.Janis, is the tendency for group members to reach a consensus opinion, even if that decision is downright stupid (Janis 1982).

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by ray_sir_6 View Post
    Majestic turbo
    Yeah I know of them, but have heard mixed reviews about their work. Anyone worked with them recently?
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  5. #5

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    I've heard mostly the bad reviews of Majestic. I avoided them last rebuild I needed because of that. But no actual experience with them.

    I used Limit Engineering back in 2003. They removed the oil drain fitting (my bad for not taking it off) and never sent it back. I wouldn't have cared so much if it was a normal fitting and I could find it easily. But I couldn't, so I was pissed. But it was obviously my fault. Turbo worked fine afterward for 10k miles before I sold it and moved on.

    If it's a BB turbo, you really want to replace the CHRA instead of rebuilding it. Garrett used to have (probably still does) a replacement program: if your bearings are good, they will exchange yours for a brand new CHRA + however much. Some places consider replacing the cartridge a rebuild, but some don't. I still haven't heard of a place that can 100% rebuild a BB turbo without replacing the CHRA. Of all the cars I've had/worked on that had BB turbos I would either upgrade, buy new, or replace the CHRA. Rebuilding in the traditional sense really isn't an option for a BB turbo.

  6. #6

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    I saw something on thier website about about the replacement program for turbos that have failed, but I didn't think that applied to oil seals. If it really can not be rebuilt then I guess I have nothing to loose by trying out an oil restrictor, however I have read both good and bad things about using them. From what I understand a BB turbo should not see more than 45psi of oil pressure, so getting the correct size restrictor is the key. That said I have not found a chart or anything that helps you determine what size to get.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  7. #7

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    Garrett says they need them, as does just about every single turbo shop that knows what they are doing. Have for nearly a decade now. There should be no question about whether you need one or not. Unless you have a really large BB turbo, you want ~0.035" restrictor for a BB turbo.

    ATP sells them, as do a ton of other places. You'll see them all vary in size a tiny bit, but as long as you are ~0.035" you are good (the 0.035" is considered on the larger size).

    Even Garrett journal bearing turbos should have a restrictor (just nearly twice as large).
    Last edited by Rob®; 03-01-2012 at 12:50 PM.

  8. #8

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    Thanks for confirming the size. I have seen others list that size but they didn't explain why they went with it.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  9. #9

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    The size could be considered blind faith. A Garrett engineer told me, as did a few others that are very well respected in their various communities. I put one on my car before I ever even installed the FM2 kit back in 2003 (back then they were "debatable") and have used one from ATP on every setup I've had since then. But no, I personally have never done the math or anything to determine that size: like I said, I took a Garrett engineer's and a few others' advice on that one.

  10. #10

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    Thanks again and I just ordered one.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  11. #11

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    No problem. Hopefully that's your issue. I know a few people (personally, not just internet-"know") that had leaking seals that were solved with a restrictor. But I also know others that the restrictor didn't fix the leaky seals, so wishing you the best on that one.

  12. #12

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    Turbochargers don't have seals, lol. I guess you could call the shaft rings "seals" and the only way they can fail is when the bearing goes out in grand fashion.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  13. #13

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    I forgot how technical this forum is. My apologies. I know people that have had oil leak from their BB turbos that were told to put in a restrictor to prevent any future leaking from said turbo. Some were lucky enough that the restrictor they put in did prevent further leakage, and went on for many years and thousands of miles with the same turbo/s, while others did not have the same fortune. I was also told by a Garrett engineer and many others that are well respected in their various communities that a restrictor is needed to prevent oil leaks. Again, my apologies, Flyin, that I so haphazardly used the word "seals" to describe a part that prevents fluid from leaking. I should have known better.


    I also know that mr brg meant to write "ball bearing turbochargers don't have seals" since journal bearings do. And you can buy replacements that are indeed called "seals" by the manufacturer.
    Last edited by Rob®; 03-04-2012 at 12:01 PM.

  14. #14

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    LOL!
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob® View Post
    I also know that mr brg meant to write "ball bearing turbochargers don't have seals" since journal bearings do. And you can buy replacements that are indeed called "seals" by the manufacturer.
    Not by Garrett.
    Here's a BB turbo:

    The rings on the edges of the shaft are designed to let air-pressure pass through them to push oil back into the oil-chamber, the lip in the shaft is there to fling oil away from the edges of the housing. It's basically impossible for them to go bad because there is no load nor friction on them.
    Here's a journal bearing turbo:

    It works the same way.

    MotoIQ is awesome.

    The reason I posted this is because people think they can "get a seal job" on a turbo and that everything will be fixed. This is rarely the case because if it's leaking oil at the CHRA edges, the shaft and bearing is trash and the turbine and compressor are probably eating the housings. People who think they can rebuild BB turbos are usually wrong. I have a buddy who's the engineer at TiAL, he says the manufacturing process requires bizaro equipment to press-together the CHRA shaft.

    Yes, resitricters are required. However I'd start with a .062" before trying the .032". A little oil smoke on start up is fine, but not a smoke-machine. Mine doesn't smoke at all and has survived several years of track abuse.

    Be more emotional. I didn't right all this to correct semantics, I wrote it because whoever told you the seals went bad in your turbo were lying and most likely screwing you.
    Last edited by SirHustlerEsq; 03-04-2012 at 01:32 PM.
    TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!

  16. #16

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    And now I know youre not talking to me since I said you can't rebuild a BB turbo. So good, problem of semantics solved.

  17. #17

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    Just received my restricter and will install it once the turbo cools off. I'll report back on the oil consumption issue at a later date.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  18. #18

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    FWIW, Majestic rebuilt mine at least 20k miles ago, and it's still on the car. It was about $450.
    Smile
    93' LE #1136 - FM II
    250k miles

  19. #19

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    Ok it's installed now so we'll see what happens. While I was at it I pulled the intake pipe and cleaned out some residual oil that was found. I also checked shft play but I have to admit I'm not sure what is normal. I read that some forward and aft movement is typical but there should be almost no side to side play. On mine I couldn't really see any side to side play but I could feel just a little bit. Is does turn smoothly and I didn't see evidence of the turbine contacting the housing so I think I'm fine.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

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