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Thread: help! getting no sprark or fuel

  1. #1

    Default help! getting no sprark or fuel

    So ive searched all around and have tried everything short of pulling the head back off. I was forced to essentially change the head gasket due to a spark plug and ezout breaking off. I removed the head and gave it to a friend who said they could extract the broken ezout and plug for me. I just got it back last week and proceded to insall it thurs on the 4th before going out of town til sunday. Sunday i finished the install/ double checking everything and went for first start. Cranks beautifully but has no spark or fuel. Ive checked all grounds and connections and have even moved some grounds around to double check good. I hear no fuel pump unless i jump f/p to ground. Removed cas and hand spun to see if i get a tach reading, nothing. Removed valve cover to triple check timing and even spun crank 180` then reset timing based on the crank notches tdc. Swapped conecters of coil packs to see if i possably got them backwards, (both are 4 prong, and plug into eachother the same, still dont know if its right)... yesterday was a furlough day so i messed with it alittle. Checked fuelpump relay under steering wheel. I can hear a click as long as the jumper from fp to gnd is in. What the heck should i do next. To get a proper diag will cost me alot that i dont have now that where in furlough status. Suggestions? Det cord?
    What to do....
    PS- started and ran like a champ before plug broke off/head came off.

  2. #2

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    My guess would be either Crank Angle Sensor or CAM Angle Sensor, since it's both fuel and spark, likely its the ECU saying "NO". I had issues when I did my T.B. I gapped the Crank sensor poorly. search the big board for the proper gap.
    '99 Emerald Green - 2015 NASA Texas TTE Season Champion (showing up is really 100% of it)

  3. #3

    Default Check this.

    Not sure what year yours is. This is on my '95 1.8. Double check this ground (nut in the center of the pic).

    HPIM3460.jpg

  4. #4

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    Check main relay in underhood fusebox.

  5. #5

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    Ill check the gap after work today, it just wouldnt make sense if it was running fine before thought right? wont hurt for me to check anyway though. WRX, ill check that ground as well. that specific ground only has that one bundle with 2 or 3 wires going to it correct? ptech, if the motor cranks could the main realy still be bad? when i turn the ignition on i heard 2 or 3 clicks under the hood wich i assume are the relays. I wish i could just shoot all the wires like i do at work.. my hopes are on a bad ground..

  6. #6

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    You can gap the crank sensor by using the flat smooth tip of a zip tie. Have just enough clearance between one of the crank plate teeth and the crank sensor for the zip tie tip to slide in and out smoothly. In other words, the gap is very small.
    ...and across the line.

    1996 Mazda Miata - R-Package (Eve-L)
    2012 Mazda CX-9 - Grand Touring (Dory)




  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKKent View Post
    WRX, ill check that ground as well. that specific ground only has that one bundle with 2 or 3 wires going to it correct? .
    Yes, that's correct.

  8. #8

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    Mine is the 95 1.8.. there is no crank sensor.. only cam angle sensor.. Ive seen people say check the shim on the cas witch i thought they ment cam angle. i guess i wont be doing that after work lol. does anyone know the color of the wires to the left and right side coils? the #4&1 and #2&3. still not 100% sure on if i have the coil plugs swapped or not. (even if they were it wouldnt explain why no fuel or spark)

  9. #9

    Default Pics of my 95 1.8

    Fuzzy but I think the colors show:

    HPIM3464.jpgHPIM3463.jpgHPIM3461.jpg

  10. #10

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    Man wrx74, thanks for the pics! ill have to double check on mine to verify there are 4 wires coming out of each coil harness. yours looks to have the 3rd spot blank.. Also, looking at your pic gives my the idea of doing a continuity check on the black wires. Without having a wiring diagram, im asuming the black wirer coming from the coil plugs should be ground. so if i run my fluke from the black wire at the connecter to a chasis ground it should have continuity... ???

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKKent View Post
    ptech, if the motor cranks could the main realy still be bad? when i turn the ignition on i heard 2 or 3 clicks under the hood wich i assume are the relays.
    When mine went bad on my 99, other underdash relays would still click. Get a helper to turn the key while feeling for the main relay clicking if you can (it's the green one in the underhood fusebox). Does the CEL illuminate with the key in the 'on' position? If not, mostly likely no power to the PCM which could be bad ground or bad main relay. My 99 wiring diagram shows 2 grounding locations on right front of the engine that ground the PCM.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKKent View Post
    Without having a wiring diagram, im asuming the black wirer coming from the coil plugs should be ground. so if i run my fluke from the black wire at the connecter to a chasis ground it should have continuity... ???
    http://www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-...ring/95sys.pdf

    System grounds are on page 13.

  13. #13

  14. #14

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    Ok calling it a night. A friend with a 99 came over. We put my main relay, fuel relay and coilpack on his and it fired up everytime. Only reason we didnt try the CAS was because its dif for the 99s. Unplugged all harness on mine and cleaned the heck out of all the connectors. 2Mro i will reconnect and go for a start. Next, unfortunately, will be finding a cas. What are a few cars that use the same CAS? On the back of the exhast cam like my 95...
    Last thing, just a reminder. I get fuel pressure/can hear the pump as long as i jump fp-gnd but no injector pulse or spark.

  15. #15

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    Running!!! First off, thanks to everyone who helped me trouble shoot and for all your suggestions. Secondly, i am an idiot for this... Yesterday after work i reran the harness. and the miata fired up first try. 100% due to me not labling the connecters. I swapped my coil plugs during the trouble shooting process with no luck. turns out that the plug for the cas plugs into the coil packs and visa versa. so in the end, after a week of trying to get a good start, it was because i had a coil connecter plugged into the cas and the cas pluged into a coil.

    Thanks again for all your replys, hope to be back to autoX events soon. (havent been able to do any this year :/)

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