Sunken clutch?

[ozzie84]

Just now heading back home from work, and about four blocks from the house, my clutch pedal sunk all the way to the floor and then I couldn't shift gear. Pressed the clutch all the way in to put t in first and while the clutch was still in, the car was rolling forward...What the heck just happen?

[Keifersmith]

Assuming that you have fluid in the clutch reservoir, I would guess that your clutch slave cylinder went out.

[POS Racing]

Assuming that you have fluid in the clutch reservoir, I would guess that your clutch slave cylinder went out.

+1

[ozzie84]

How hard would it be to replace?

[OZMDD]

Not hard, nor expensive. Just messy. Did one a couple days ago in 30 minutes, give or take.

[ozzie84]

Well im at a random parking lot...auto zone about 9 blocks from here... should I just give it a shot?

[POS Racing]

Good stuff here -> http://www.miata.net/garage/slavecyl.html

[OZMDD]

Yep. 10 mm open end wrench, 12mm socket, brake fluid, jack up car, remove RF wheel, remove, replace. Putting fluid in the new slave will reduce the need for bleeding, but its still a good idea to bleed a little.

There are two bolts that hold it to the car. The upper is easy to get from the wheel well, but the lower really requires you to get under the car or reach it blind from the side.

[ozzie84]

Ah ok, well hopefully I van get it done tonight...thanks for all the help

[goofygrin]

Be sure to crack the line loose first. If you don't do that while the slave is bolted to the car it gets way harder to do. A friend to help bleed the line is helpful as well.

[black roadster]

More tips...

First, remove the boot on the slave to verify it is leaking as it will leak inside the boot. If it's wet in there, slave is the problem. If not, the clutch master is likely the problem.
Grease the end off the piston that contacts the shift fork.
The 12mm bolts can be tight and snap loose. Watch your knuckles. I find a few long extensions so you're outside the fender and a big breaker bar makes it easier.
When reinstalling, start threading the clutch line first before bolting the slave back on. Otherwise you may cross thread the line and then you're in for a long day.
Replacing the clutch line with a TDR stainless line replaces the factory coiled section and makes the clutch easier to bleed.
Sometimes replacing a slave results in a clutch master to fail next. Weakest like syndrome.
Use cheap ass brake fluid in the clutch. It doesn't need the fancy Motul or whatever.
A vacuum bleeder will help to pull the fluid through when bleeding. Once you have a steady stream, do a manual bleed with a buddy but pump like 25 times and hold, open bleeder valve close bleeder valve, repeat in till you get three pump sessions in a row with no bubbles. Verify slave is providing a good action when clutch pedal is pressed.
BTW, we have clutch slaves in stock.

[ozzie84]

not having the right tools, garage or lighting is starting to tick me off

[channelmaniac]

Speed bleeders are a Godsend if you are doing this solo.