Muffler movement
How can I keep my muffler from moving on the hangers? I need the muffler pushed outward and keep it there so it doesn't rattle on my hitch.
Try loosening to engine mounts and moving everything forward.
I had that problem on my yellow car. I wrapped the hitch with part of an old inner tube. Worked for me.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
Remove the muffler.
Use a hose clamp on the muffler hangar to limit the range the rubber can slide on the hangar.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
I like the hose clamp idea...I'll give that a try. Thanks (to most of you).
Anytime.Originally Posted by sammm
You're welcome.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
Bringing this one back...the clamps didn't work out too well. I think I need to isolate the midpipe from moving side to side. Any recommendations?
I'm thinking of trying a few of these and securing them to the frame rails.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wl...FVOf4Aod3GUAlw
I made a heat resistant pad for my old FM exhaust using pipe foam covered in Cool Tape. It would last a few months before needing replacement.
1990 White NA - SOLD
1994 Black NA - SOLD
2006 Red NC - GT with limited slip, HIDs, all OEM.
Isn't there already a hanger for the midpipe? I recall having one on the POSIV.
Loosen the cat and block it from the rub, then tighten it all back up good.
I understand what you're saying, but if I can keep it from moving I'll only have to fix it once.
There is and it's attached. Still getting enough movement to bounce it off the hitch.
Loosen/tightening the cat won't keep the cat-back assembly from moving side to side....am I missing something?
The clamp you linked will work, but attach the strap to the bolts that hold the cross brace under the rear subframe (just under the diff) as your mounting point. That's basically where the extra hangar on the NC aftermarket midpipes are, and they work like a charm.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Put the oem exhaust back on. Thats what I did and now I have no rattle or drone and feels like it has more low-end torque.
1990 White NA - SOLD
1994 Black NA - SOLD
2006 Red NC - GT with limited slip, HIDs, all OEM.
Who let this clown in here??? Next you'll suggest that the Mazda engineers spent hundreds of hours designing/engineering the parts on the car to work together in an efficient, reliable system??!!??? How dare you suggest that the typical layman doesn't have the ability to randomly slap aftermarket parts onto a car and have an expectation of massive improvement???
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Well I do have an RB header AND FM cat.
Bozo
1990 White NA - SOLD
1994 Black NA - SOLD
2006 Red NC - GT with limited slip, HIDs, all OEM.
....welder....
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