Stabilizing small solder joints
Odd question here... I've got a wired controller I'm trying to fix for my dad. It's got an array of tiny wires soldered to a PC board, which is then snapped into an external case. Tiny wires run into a sheath and exit the external case through a grommet. So, a couple of the wires worked loose, then we opened it up and managed to break all the connections. It looks like a really easy fix - solder tiny wires back to board, put the thing back together, profit. However, it looks like I need a way to stabilize those solder joints so they don't work loose again. I'm thinking some kind of clear epoxy or something to immobilize the wires in relation to the board. If we can't fix it, a new controller will run about $100 - and I'm guessing it'll just break again in a similar manner.
Any thoughts?
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
The epoxy trick is a good one. You might also anchor the bundle with a zip tie that acts as a "stop" to prevent the outside tug from pulling the wire out of the case, then leave a little slack on the inside. Just locate the zip tie and pull it hella-snug with needle nose, then trim.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
We used to fill geophones with clear silicon seal. Seemed to make them pretty tough. But, some of the jug-hustlers still managed to break one occasionally.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
Sounds like a plan... thanks for the feedback!
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
+1 on the epoxy & tie wrap suggestions. Hot glue may also work, depending on the application. Sometimes you'll see a cord tied into a know so it doesn't come out of the housing.
C
The epoxy might be kind of hard to remove in case you ever need to work on the connection again, the silicone can be too soft, hot glue is pretty good for this application. +1 on the strain relief zip tie on the the inside of the case.
'06 RSX Type-S NBP
Ya, the epoxy route sounds good, but it cracks over time and then you can't fix the connection again (learned this working for Cessna). A jacket strain relief is the way to go. Additionally you might consider adding pins and a locking ribbon cable connection if there's room.
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