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Thread: Titus's V6 Swap build thread

  1. #101

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    The MAP, TPS, and IAC all get moved about 18 inches with the relocation of the throttle body. Each of these wires needed to be extended. I hate tracing issues with wires that change colors, so I wanted to find exact matches for,each wire getting extended. First, I dug through the box of wires that had been removed from the harness and found matches for all but 3 wires. Then I turned to EFIConnection.com. They are the best source I have found for short lengths of automotive TXL wire in various color combos. With the right wire, I spliced in extensions using uninsulated butt connectors and 2 layers of shrink tubing.


  2. #102

  3. #103

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    Congrats! I'm going to swap a Ford 5.0 into my Miata. Your efforts make my project seem easy.
    AnthonyS
    former owner of 4 NA Miatas
    94 Laguna Blue awaiting Ford 5.0 transplant
    Also have a 91 ZR-1 and 00 996 (911).

  4. #104

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    Smiling so big for you right now! Way to go Todd! Sounded good.
    Smile
    93' LE #1136 - FM II
    250k miles

  5. #105

  6. #106
    Team Cheap Bastard
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    It's alive! Congrats Todd!

  7. #107

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    The beast lives Nice job Todd woo hoo indeed
    '06 RSX Type-S NBP

  8. #108

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    Thanks guys... the list of work still to come is still a little daunting, but this was obviously a major milestone.

  9. #109

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    I tackled installing the exhaust tonight. First up was new studs in the exhaust manifolds. Some were missing and the others didn’t look so hot, so I got all new ones. I ran a thread repair tool through the holes first to clean them up. The passenger side studs went in easy, but the steering linkage makes the drivers side a pain. I ender up pulling it off to install them.





    Once those were taken care of, the Y pipe from the kit slid right in place with the included new gasket rings. Getting the bolts tightened involved an interesting combination of extension, flex joint, and flex wrench, but I managed.





    It’s now all in.





    It included a plate to be welded on for mating with the cat, but it looks like it won’t be close enough on my car to make the connection. I’m not too concerned, as I planned on taking it to someone to modify for additional clearance any way.



  10. #110

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    Quote Originally Posted by Titus View Post





    Is the start on the bottom of the motor? If so, is it exposed to the elements?
    M3 is always the answer.

  11. #111

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    Quote Originally Posted by ken o View Post
    Is the start on the bottom of the motor? If so, is it exposed to the elements?
    Yes. Good news is, these run about $40.

  12. #112
    Team Cheap Bastard
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    ^Maybe you could fashion an aluminum 'shroud' to help cover it.

  13. #113

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    Quote Originally Posted by sammm View Post
    ^Maybe you could fashion an aluminum 'shroud' to help cover it.
    That is something I am considering.

  14. #114

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    Keep us posted, very interesting!!

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by Titus View Post
    That is something I am considering.
    I wouldn't worry about the starter. Ford has been putting them on the bottom of the bell housing and out in the open for decades. It's a non issue to me.
    AnthonyS
    former owner of 4 NA Miatas
    94 Laguna Blue awaiting Ford 5.0 transplant
    Also have a 91 ZR-1 and 00 996 (911).

  16. #116

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    After the abuse I put the starter through on the bottom on my CJ I would not worry about it.

  17. #117

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    Mazda Harness Cleanup- Drivers Side

    There are several things in the Mazda harness that you still need, but others that are no longer needed. The drivers side and passenger side are separate, so I decided to clean up the easier drivers side first.


    First step was to remove all of the factory tape and plastic tubing holding the harness together. This is a long dirty job.





    Next step was removing what wasn’t needed. I wanted to COMPLETELY remove the unneeded wires, but I quickly realized that was more work than I was willing to take on. I ended up cutting each wire, folding the end back on itself, and covered in heat shrink. They are then taped in to the harness. This was done to the AFM, cruise control, air bag, and side indicator wire, as I am not using any of theses.





    Next I wrapped the wires in fresh electrical tape the way I wanted it to be.





    Next it needed to be covered. I am not a fan of the factory style tubing, so I went with a product called Techflex F6. I am very happy with it. It has a split in it, and coils over it self nicely. I recommend a hot knife for cutting it as it does fray if you don’t melt the end. I finished the ends off with silicone tape for a clean look.





    Along the way, I also gave the diagnostic connector bracket a coat of paint and reinstalled the headlight.





    I need to get some new anchors before I can call this side done, but that is about it.
    Last edited by Titus; 02-21-2016 at 11:52 AM.

  18. #118

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    Quote Originally Posted by Titus View Post
    Yes. Good news is, these run about $40.
    Cover the terminals.
    M3 is always the answer.

  19. #119

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    Wouldn't it be advantageous to have the rod and cylinder on a common plane? Seem a bit cocked which I would think could put the cylinder in a bind and cause premature wear.

    But it could be just the picture.

    Impressive work on the entire project!!

  20. #120

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    What an awesome build thread! Subscribed.

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